Any negotiating tips and wisdom....

Price was definitely high. I paid $8k for my '06 four years ago with almost the same miles. I was getting ready to list it for sale for $2k until I made the decision to keep it. I've seen STs all over for well under $5k, many with fewer miles than the one you looked at. As for farkles- they actually usually reduce the value of most vehicles. If you were looking for a nice car for your wife, would you buy one that had a fart-can muffler, ground effects, was lowered, had a big wing, etc.? Or the bone stock one that looked like it had never been used? Farkles and miles are the reasons I was going to price mine at $2k. I couldn't make my bike look original without spending more money, and I can't take the miles off it.

As for that inspection they were trying to charge you for- they already inspected it. If they didn't, they aren't much of a dealer. Instead of paying THEM to inspect it, YOU look it over. You'll get an accurate, honest report- and it won't cost anything. Dealers try to tack on any fees they can, especially for things they already did, or things they want you to think they will do but won't.
 
Bobert said:
I agree with the looking around, seems like buy something and the next day there's something better. Thats always the case, but you are ahead of the game when you are not a impulsive buyer! Not interested myself, but just ran across this 2003 for $2000.00. just keep your ear to the ground and one will show up.
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/mcy/4761916910.html
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I find it hard to believe it was salvage titled from a mirror cover and headlight. There has to be more damage than that.
 
Hmm...No pics of damage nor any statement saying the mirror or headlight cover was replaced. The price is right, but like Fred said, there has to be more damage than being backed into and tipped over.
 
It is unfortunate that you couldn't make a deal. But like said through out this thread there are a lot of bikes out there. Some things that I look for and do when negotiating with a dealer on a used bike.

First and for most the end of the month is typically the best time to buy. The sales guys need to make numbers. Slow months they typically are more willing to deal.

I always negotiate for an out the door price (handling fees, sales tax, etc.). Having exactly what I want to spend in hand (cash). I like to do one time or the day of offers. Meaning I am willing to buy the bike today, cash deal. Dealers with high volumes of used bikes that move a lot of used bike are easier to deal with. Their business is based on low profit and high volume. Be ready to belly up or walk away.

Dealing with private parties is all over the board. They just, like you and I think our stuff is gold and you as the buyer should pay the current price of gold. Trust no one when buying the vehicle. If the deal sounds to good to be true it most likely is a bad deal.
 
I understand that Trader Publications bought Kelly some time ago...

CYYJ said:
Hi Doug:

Some thoughts for you...

1) The people at Kelly don't buy cars or motorcycles. Hence, it doesn't matter to you (and should mean even less to the dealer) what the Kelly Blue Book says. If the dealer perseverates about the KBB price, tell them to call Kelly and ask them if they want to buy the bike. That should put an end to that nonsense.
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dc112675 said:
Well, I walked away from the dealer empty handed...They offered $5750 and they would put on new tires. So with TT&L it would be over $6,000. I offered $5,250 with new tires. Even with all the accessories I think their offer was too high. Kind of bummed out. Thanks for all the advice...I'm so appreciative. The hunt continues!
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Well have they phoned you back yet? Only two more days till the end of the month...
 
I called the general manager back and he wouldn't budge. He said that $5750 (with new tires) was $1000 below blue book. I explained that the blue book was based on good tires and good finish...two big scratches from another bike falling on it is not average. 1 can of colorite colorite paint is $200 and getting it painted would probably be another $200. So even with new tires, $5750 + fixing paint would be above blue book.* I had a print off that showed NADA @ $6070 and KBB @ $6005...He said he had a different NADA book that valued it @ $6250.
They were pretty bad about communicating...They refused to negotiate over the phone, but assuming they would make a good offer, I rented a trailer, had cash for deposit, and even had insurance for the bike (at their request)!* I got there, saw the second scratch, and salesman acted like he hadn't noticed it...it was 5" long on top of the top case!* I said I wanted to test ride and he said he'd have to check, but didn't think so.
When we went to negotiate the salesman suggested I start with $5000 and new tires (based on the condition). Then he came back with the manager and said $5800 and tires. I said I could do $5250; they left for 10 minutes and came back, going down $50. He then said if they loaned less than $6000 I would have to pay a $200 fee.
I asked him about the down payment today and he said I couldn't make one without incurring the penalty. The manager said he would take $5250 and I could replace the tires. I asked how that would work with the $6000 loan minimum and he said I'd have to pay cash. I could swing it, but there is no way I'm going to pay $5250 cash for a bike with 2 big scratches and needed new tires.* I reminded him that regardless of year/price he did not have one bike on the floor that had bad scratches like this one...so this wasn't good or even average. I was not belligerent or vulgar in any way, but when I asked him why he offered $5250 for the bike when he couldn't loan that amount, he lied and said that I told him I would pay cash. I told him that wasn't true and he hung up!
Needless to say that I was so disappointed in the experience. I did call back and spoke to the manager...I told him that the general manager was fair and respectful, and that we just couldn't agree on the numbers, but it is unprofessional to hang up. I did transfer back to the g.m. to thank him for his time and to let him know that hanging up on customers is probably not the most professional way to treat others. So this one was not the one!
 
The first thing you need to decide is whether you want an ST1300 ABS motorcycle.

If you do, the deal of $5,750 with new tires is excellent. What you may not be factoring in is the cost, time, and headache of trying to find a similar ST1300 with ABS and only 28,000 miles. That is a rare find without traveling the Country. The Fly and Drive process alone will cost more than $500. Tires installed is close to $350. One could subtract the $500 and $350 from $5,750 and the sale price for that bike is now $4,900! A virtual steal.

The Dealer is only the gatekeeper. I have never found a good one in my 30 years of purchasing cars and motorcycles. You need not return once you have the motorcycle. The motorcycle is the prize.
 
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You're right. The only reason I called first was because the dealership is only a few miles from my parents, in DFW, where we are visiting. We are heading back home to New Mexico tomorrow, so if if we were going to make a deal that included new tires, I needed to do it today so they could install them.

I liked the color, mileage, and ABS , but in all honesty the farkels (2 exhausts, 3 seats, 2 windshields, top case, & GPS) were all things I would have purchased over the coming years (at a much higher price).

Honestly if he would have met me halfway at $5500 I probably would have gone for it.

Thanks again to all of you for your wisdom, advice, and encouragement.
 
Run don't walk away from these guys. What you described is a tactic dealers employ. The salesman who's on your side and the owner who's the bad guy. I doubt they even talked about your offer. More than likely they were talking football. They let you sit for awhile and at the 10 minute mark they come out and shake their head and say the boss won't go for it but if you offer this he will probably go for this deal.....
keep a look out in craigslist or kijjiji. Start a watch list. Keep checking everyday and see what is moving and what isn't. See what's in a 40 mile radius of where you live. When you make an appointment to see a bike keep it or at least give a call if you're not. If you can swing a cash deal all the better.
when you examine the bike, check out the compartments. Did you find a tire guage? What condition is the tool kit in? Does it come with both factory issue keys? Look at the Tupperware fasteners, are any of the heads of screws mangled. How neat is the wiring when farkels were added? Wear clothes that you aren't afraid to get dirty, look under the bike for leaks. Check the condition of the oil drain plug. Is it mangled or in good condition.
you can use a penny to check tread depth on a tire. ( if it reaches Lincoln's head you will probably pass a safety)
The forum has articles and charts for scheduled maintenance, print out a copy and ask what has been done on the bike and at what intervals and compare it to the list you printed out.
i think you will find most owners of these bikes make sure they are serviced and take pride in doing it themselves. Looking at the condition of fasteners will give you an idea about how much they care about their bike.
you will also discover here that high mileage bikes are good too.
A deal will come your way. It sounds like you can set parameters. Stick with them.
all the best on your search.
 
Sounds to me like you did a great job negotiating. (Better than I would have - which is why I take my wife with me.) There are books on how to buy a car. Pick one up at the library. What Kiltman said about the dealer's tactic being classic is true. A little info on your side won't hurt. Good luck in your search.

BTW, I looked for a bike for about 3 months. I missed one because I dithered and wasted too much time. When a good deal came up, I went after it like a striking fish. It was my incredible good fortune that the seller was honest and more than nice. I've read about similar good luck here in other threads. Keep watching the for sale ads. In my limited experience (buying cars and bikes) owners tend to be more forthright than dealers. The former might (not always) have an inflated idea of its worth but the latter has overhead, salaries, and commission to include. Unless the dealer really needs cash, he wont deal below a certain point.
 
Kingman & SMSW-
Again, thank you for all the great advice and the reassurance. I was almost trying to convince myself to call them and say I'll consider their offer if they ordered me a pint of paint!*

I'm just confused why they wouldn't go any lower. Obviously he wouldn't say what he paid, but I told him if he was as tough a negotiator in buying as he is in selling, he probably didn't pay more than $4000 for the bike. So add $350 for tires, and sell it QUICK for $5250...isn't that a good deal for them? Especially for an 11 year old bike in the dead of winter! They wouldn't have to take pics, post them, advertise, or make room on the showroom floor. Now he had to do all of the above, wait a few months, and still probably not get more than $5500. Beats me...
 
Fnmag- I think you're probably right, and I'm not offended that you offered some correction. As I remind my kids, "the only thing harder than learning from your mistakes is not learning from them." I admit that I was emotionally invested in that bike, and walking away was not easy. In my defense, I did not tell them I had gotten the trailer, cash, or insurance until I spoke with the manager today...and I basically couched it in the terms of "you had the easiest sell and you let it walk."

I did mention to him that I already had a bike and even if I bought one now it would just sit in my garage for the next 2+ months.* Waiting til spring may mean a bit more competition with other buyers, but it also means greater selection too. I can justify paying a little more if it is exactly what I want. I expect I will keep it for 8-10 years so $300-400 works out to just a few bucks a month.
 
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