Add my bike to the LEAKS :(

BakerBoy said:
But, I've not replaced every hose, just the larger ones (which are the leakers).
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I have, and if the clamp screws are turned upwards or the ones attached to the wax idle unit, you will have to remove the throttle bodies to tighten all of the clamps. the smaller hose clamps do loosen up. A couple of mine were loose when I did fixed my leaking alternator o-ring repair.
 
Before I remove the throttle body I will remove the rad and catch as much antifreeze as possible. The antifreeze is 2 years old and I will reuse it if it is clean. I maybe able to see a leak or 2. I used the Honda Type 2 coolant from the Honda car STEALER. I have a small electric heater that will feel great in my garage.
 
BakerBoy said:
Understood Kevin. Mine were all issues with the larger hoses.
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BakerBoy - Wish they all were accessible from the front. Pulling the TB's is a pain, but to make sure, you are going to have to. Unless you want to roll the dice and go for the easy ones. You will have most of the steps completed to replace your coolant once the radiator is removed.
 
I pulled the TBs on my ST twice and really, once you get access to them, the actual removal isn't much more trouble. For what it's worth, mine were stuck pretty good and I'm a little ashamed to say I popped them loose by levering a claw hammer between them and the frame while protecting the frame with a patch of leather. Who ever heard of working on a motorcycle with a claw hammer - uh that's me.
 
AlleyBrewer said:
Who ever heard of working on a motorcycle with a claw hammer - uh that's me.
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Claw hammers are very useful. I'd be willing to bet that if someone started a thread, "Whats the most unusual tool you used while working on your bike?" we would have some surprising responses.....
 
Made it back alive. I followed the manual step-by-step. It was A OK until I had to work on the throttle body.. I did a lot of thinking before I tackled it. Getting to the clamps on the rubber isulators was abit tricky but not that hard, trying to lift the throttle body off the isulators was nerve racking. After 15 minutes 'she popped'.

I never really found any 'There it is, THE leak' but small ones


Here is a picture of the water pipes with the mat pulled back. The temperature sensor was green. Is that normal or is that a leaking component?

I have 2 clamps on the top rad hose because the old clamp got broken when I changed the coolant 2 years ago. I think I will buy the correct one. another $12




I found the mysterious entrance to the square drain hole. It is located behind the thermostat facing the alternator



Not much mess. I caught 99% of the coolant. I will be throwing all of it out and starting with new. No rolling dice



I going to Mother Honda and order the line between the 2 fuel tanks and the clamps + I will replace the thermostat and O ring while I have it off. I removed all of the coolant line, scrubbed all the surfaces with scotch bright and go from there.

Pretty bare bone

 
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Can I start my bike with the top gas tank off once I get all the parts on and refilled with anti-freeze? I am going to buy the extra tubing to extend my starter valve lines then syn the body with my mercury sticks.
 
Yes, it will start and run (as long as there's fuel remaining in the lower tank). It may produce a 'failure' code given that the IAT (inlet air tempertature) sensor is disconnected. The IAT resides on the air box cover, towards the rear.
 
BakerBoy said:
Yes, it will start and run (as long as there's fuel remaining in the lower tank). It may produce a 'failure' code given that the IAT (inlet air temperature) sensor is disconnected. The IAT resides on the air box cover, towards the rear.
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I just remembered the unused gas gets pumped back into the top gas, SO I would say NO , because it will make one hell of a fire/mess.
 
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Ok all is going well. Went to Mother Honda and ordered my parts, should be here tomorrow.

I done a lot of running around today to find the Tygon 5/32 tubing. I found it at the local hobby shop. 2 packs 3 feet each. I had 8 inches left.

1st start.
.

upside down



finished



I will have to buy a spare T JOINT, FIVE-WAY 17201-MCJ-003 , it feels like it could break by going BOO
 
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Kevin_56 said:
I have, and if the clamp screws are turned upwards or the ones attached to the wax idle unit, you will have to remove the throttle bodies to tighten all of the clamps. the smaller hose clamps do loosen up. A couple of mine were loose when I did fixed my leaking alternator o-ring repair.
Click to expand...

I have removed and replaced ALL the coolant hoses on many ST's and have never needed to remove the TB once.
It can be done from the front with the correct tools.
.02
 
Igofar said:
I have removed and replaced ALL the coolant hoses on many ST's and have never needed to remove the TB once.
It can be done from the front with the correct tools.
.02
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I took mine off to tighten the hoses under the throttle body. I was nosy anyway. It's winter time.
 
Igofar said:
I have removed and replaced ALL the coolant hoses on many ST's and have never needed to remove the TB once.
It can be done from the front with the correct tools.
.02
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Well Larry - For those of us without these "special" tools, you have to remove the TB's to remove and replace some of the hoses. No other way around it.
 
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