2013 FJR1300 - Shuey's Farkles

Raj_Zin said:
There have been reports (on fjrforum.com) of the rear sub-frame cracking on pre-2013 FJRs. I don't think that part of the structure has been updated for 2013+ so whatever the cause was still applies. That being said, who knows how much weight and how often the victims were subjected to?

I ride with both side bags and trunk attached all the time, and no issues so far. But they are very lightly loaded.

I think Yamaha's admonition not to do it is because people who do so would tend to overload them...

There is a GIVI rack available that mitigates the rear subframe weakness problem SR357 or 657 or something. It replaces the rear rack and side grab rails and attaches in a way that spreads the weight of the top box out better. I don't have one.

Don't get the OEM trunk. The inside is much smaller than the outside due to it's double wall construction. I chose the Shad 50.
HTH
-STeve
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Thanks Steve. Just read an interesting and confirming post on an FJR site. I've already replaced the stock rear rack which also has the side grab rails. I've switched to Pelican Boxes for my top box two bikes ago. They're easier to pack since the corners are 90 degrees instead of Givi's more aerodynamic rounded ones.

I'm going to take a closer look at the sub-frame though and see what can be done. Even if it only happens to 1:1,00,000 . . . I don't want to be 'the one.' Forewarned is forearmed.

Shuey
 
Pelican cases are not very light so that is something to keep in mind vs give boxes anyway.
 
Other then the possible frame issue (important), I would imagine Yamaha is giving those light weights in an attempt to keep people from loading the rear with enough weight to move the CG of the bike far enough back to cause problems.

Mark
 
Mellow said:
Pelican cases are not very light so that is something to keep in mind vs give boxes anyway.
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Weight of my Pelican 1040 is . . . about the same as my Givi V46. In a recent crash test, the Pelican box stayed intact and my Mac Airbook inside came through 100% fine. In another older crash test with the V46, it didn't fair as well. Not scientific, but . . . the Pelican closures are a lot more solid as is the case.

Shuey

PS: I no longer have a V46. If someone wants to weigh theirs, I'll weigh my Pelican for an actual comparison. I could be wrong in my comparison.
 
Aussieboy said:
Considering an FJR as a replacement for the ST... There is a suggestion that the rear frame is not strong enough to support both when loaded... strengthen the frame to support the additional weight
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This is an issue for the FJR. I highly recommend you join the FJR Forum, there is a wealth of excellent information there. I will warn you they are not as "controlled" as this group. It can get rough over there.

A friend of mine over there has recently dealt with this issue and when the subframe broke, it also destroyed all the pretty plastic that encases that area. He had to call his wife to come get the saddlebags and top box because he could not get it all home.

There is a "fix" for this, one of the forum members (Garauld) builds an excellent subframe stiffener. If you find the overseas shipping to be cost prohibitive, maybe you can get some ideas on how to build one on your own. There is a thread over there on this problem right now titled "If I didn't have bad luck..." There are excellent pics and info of the problem, the repairs and the frame stiffener.

Sorry for the Hijack.
 
Shuey said:
Hi. I've always wondered, if you're "down under" what's that make where I live? Just curious.

Ah, yes, your question. FYIW. First, I'm not a real technical or engineering type guy, but can share my thoughts on the matter. I don't think it's a problem, or at least it hasn't bitten me yet. I have had 3 ST1300s ('07, '08, '10) with approx. 50K, 100k, and 100k miles racked up on them. I never had a pillion rider, but always had both hard side bags, a top box (first a Givi V46, then Pelican Case 1040) AND an aux fuel tank mounted under the Pelican top box. Never had a problem.

Looking at the many stickers that came with each new bike, including my current one, this FJR, all the manuf. recommended weight limits are REALLY low. On the ST, the weight label for the side bags was 20# each and the rear deck is only 10#. I just looked up the limits on the FJR and . . . WOW: Rear Deck - 7#. More important possibly are the Max Loads: ST 459#; FJR 472#.

I'm unaware of anyone having a structural failure due to load position and weight issues. In general I've made an assumption that these limits are a liability and legal issue to take manufacturers off the hook for any problem which might occur and not based on actual material strength limitations. Maybe I'm right . . . maybe Im not.

Anyone else have information to add? Feel free to chime in for all our benefit.

Sorry I don't have a more definitive answer Aussieboy.

Shuey
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Hi Shuey,
thanks for your reply and to everyone else who has taken he trouble to post the replies that have been so helpful.

I guess that if I am down under you must be up and over a bit :)

I think all the information has helped us to make the decision to spend bit of money on the ST an keep it for a couple more years. I have to admit that I am not keen on buying a new bike and having to start playing around with the primary structural components because they have a chance of failing with the type of use we will give it. I have travelled a little bit in the USA and your roads are far better than ours, therefore the punishment bike gets day to day here is greater. Our main issue with the ST is ride quality, probably bought about by the suspension being tired after 3 years of use. So now it will be quick search for a suitable suspension replacement. From what I have read here previously, Racetech could be getting some business in the next few days.

Again, thanks Shuey and everyone else for your replies and very helpful information. That is what makes this site so great.

Aussieboy.
 
"Even if it only happens to 1:1,00,000 . . . I don't want to be 'the one.' "

Yeah, those odd, strange, 1:1,000,000 sorts of events never happen to you do they Shuey?

Just saying................................... :D
 
Redfish said:
This is an issue for the FJR. I highly recommend you join the FJR Forum, there is a wealth of excellent information there. I will warn you they are not as "controlled" as this group. It can get rough over there.

A friend of mine over there has recently dealt with this issue and when the subframe broke, it also destroyed all the pretty plastic that encases that area. He had to call his wife to come get the saddlebags and top box because he could not get it all home.

There is a "fix" for this, one of the forum members (Garauld) builds an excellent subframe stiffener. If you find the overseas shipping to be cost prohibitive, maybe you can get some ideas on how to build one on your own. There is a thread over there on this problem right now titled "If I didn't have bad luck..." There are excellent pics and info of the problem, the repairs and the frame stiffener.
Sorry for the Hijack.
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Thanks Redfish. Not a hijack at all, that's what this thread is about. Already on it "over there" and have been in contact with Gary (Garauld). Still evaluating the best fix, but with the added weight of the aux tank soon to come . . . fix it I will.

Shuey
 
Ashley said:
Shuey, is this the PDM you are using? http://www.roadrunner.travel/2014/02/25/review-pdm-60-power-distribution-module/
This looks pretty flippin' cool. A bit pricey, but cool.
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Rowe PDM 60 . . . that's the one. If I already had a fuze block installed to run farkles I don't think I'd pony up the bucks to swap what I had for the PDM. Then again, maybe I would as the end result is no fuzes to go look for and replace when one blows. The PDM automatically resets in nano-seconds.

However, starting with a fresh bike, it's no contest. Solid state, no fuzes, infinitely customizable . . . it's a no brainer. The future is here and it is good. :)

Shuey
 
Shuey said:
Rowe PDM 60 . . . that's the one. If I already had a fuze block installed to run farkles I don't think I'd pony up the bucks to swap what I had for the PDM. Then again, maybe I would as the end result is no fuzes to go look for and replace when one blows. The PDM automatically resets in nano-seconds.

However, starting with a fresh bike, it's no contest. Solid state, no fuzes, infinitely customizable . . . it's a no brainer. The future is here and it is good. :)

Shuey
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This is exactly what I'm looking at for my next bike. While the price seems steep initially, it takes the place of so much. Even using recycled relay sockets, the automotive-grade fuse block on my ST came in at around $70, plus terminals and insulators for the wires to make it waterproof. Add in fuses, relays, etc. and the price climbs quickly. A quality electrical system isn't cheap no matter which way you go, so next time I'm going to go with the PDM 60 for ease of installation. I like how it can be programmed as well. Some simple tweaking and it can be tailored to what I want. The adjustability means I don't have to swap wiring around if I change my mind how I want things controlled or connected.
 
[QUOTE;1721253]All this technology and yo could not find a small digital clock?
[/QUOTE]

Whaaaaat? Great digital clock, large display, bottom center of the main instrument display, and easy to read in all light conditions.

Who needs a small one? The stock one is large enough . . . I didn't need my glasses to read it! That's something!

Shuey

attachment.php
 
Shuey said:
Whaaaaat? Great digital clock, large display, bottom center of the main instrument display, and easy to read in all light conditions.

Who needs a small one? The stock one is large enough . . .
Click to expand...

So why did you mount a second one is the question?
Shuey Clock.jpg


(Okay... we know it's not mounted, but it does add a bit steamboat fun.)
 
Redfish said:
This is an issue for the FJR. I highly recommend you join the FJR Forum, there is a wealth of excellent information there. I will warn you they are not as "controlled" as this group. It can get rough over there.

A friend of mine over there has recently dealt with this issue and when the subframe broke, it also destroyed all the pretty plastic that encases that area. He had to call his wife to come get the saddlebags and top box because he could not get it all home.

There is a "fix" for this, one of the forum members (Garauld) builds an excellent subframe stiffener. If you find the overseas shipping to be cost prohibitive, maybe you can get some ideas on how to build one on your own. There is a thread over there on this problem right now titled "If I didn't have bad luck..." There are excellent pics and info of the problem, the repairs and the frame stiffener.

Sorry for the Hijack.
Click to expand...

This is one of the reasons I am looking at mounting a Givi Trekker 46 liter (TRK46N) hovering over the passenger seat. Here are a couple of pictures of it sitting in the general location (actual location will be a few inches aft):





The other reason is I am uncomfortable with having a trunk back on the rack position, too high and too far to the rear for my comfort level. I will be using this when I travel solo, when my wife and I ride it is short trips that we can manage with just the side bags.

I'm designing the bracketry right now...

Dan
 
bergmen said:
This is one of the reasons I am looking at mounting a Givi Trekker 46 liter (TRK46N) hovering over the passenger seat. Here are a couple of pictures of it sitting in the general location (actual location will be a few inches aft):

The other reason is I am uncomfortable with having a trunk back on the rack position, too high and too far to the rear for my comfort level. I will be using this when I travel solo, when my wife and I ride it is short trips that we can manage with just the side bags.

Dan
Click to expand...


Looks great, and . . . love the red!

Shuey
 
Update. After 14,000 miles, I'm finally starting to merge with my new horse. Two more updates since the pics at the beginning of this thread: V-Stream windshield replaced the Givi, adding some height and reducing the push of air on my helmet; and the aux fuel cell adds another 5" or so of height to the back of the bike increasing the range beyond what the stock 6.61 gallons provided.

Shuey
 
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