2 man tent that fits in pannier

This labelled a two man tent, and whilst technically that would be correct, there isn't room for much riding gear when two are inside. For me touring solo it's ideal.

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As mentioned in a few posts above, pole size is the important factor when packing. The poles for this tent are too long to fit in a side pannier, but their not too long to fit diagonally in the top box.

I consider this tent as a "real find". Another of my tents had a split fibreglass pole. Pole repair kits were $50 at Ray's Tent City, $20 at KMart. Next to the $20 KMart kits were some tents on sale - 66% off $45 tents. So for $15 (that's approx. US$10) I thought, what could go wrong? Well, the poles are a little thinner than standard poles, the tent pegs were made out of coat hanger wire, but I had some spares in the garage.

I've used this tent for about 20 nights so far, it's got another 20 left in it. That's a bargain, but the real bonus is, it fits in the panniers / top box.
 
This labelled a two man tent, and whilst technically that would be correct, there isn't room for much riding gear when two are inside. For me touring solo it's ideal.

IMG_1378.jpg

As mentioned in a few posts above, pole size is the important factor when packing. The poles for this tent are too long to fit in a side pannier, but their not too long to fit diagonally in the top box.

I consider this tent as a "real find". Another of my tents had a split fibreglass pole. Pole repair kits were $50 at Ray's Tent City, $20 at KMart. Next to the $20 KMart kits were some tents on sale - 66% off $45 tents. So for $15 (that's approx. US$10) I thought, what could go wrong? Well, the poles are a little thinner than standard poles, the tent pegs were made out of coat hanger wire, but I had some spares in the garage.

I've used this tent for about 20 nights so far, it's got another 20 left in it. That's a bargain, but the real bonus is, it fits in the panniers / top box.
those tents are great if the weather is good or light rain. Once you get caught in 70 mph gusts, rain coming in sideways or a monsoon, you'll toss that tent in the can. Nylon tents stretch a lot when wet, thats why after a rain the look so droopy. I'm looking at https://www.amazon.com/Clostnature-Lightweight-2-Person-Backpacking-Tent/dp/B07D4HPJGH/ref=sr_1_1? crid=3RLYDNIGJPWA6&dchild=1&keywords=clostnature%2Btent&qid=1589765367&sprefix=clostnature%2Btent%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-1&th=1 It's one of the few tents that have a 5000PU rain coating and the fly makes a dome for very good wind protection. It also boasts aluminum poles, 89 inches long and 2 vestibules for storage
 
We like this style of tent. Adequate sleeping space, and plenty of area in the porch to keep all of our gear inside, dry and out of the way.



Packed, it fits easily inside a pannier - but we normally strap it to the grab rail so that it rests on top of the pannier, but it is the grab rail that takes most of the weight.
The view in the mirror is slightly obscured, so I prefer to put it on the nearside (left in the UK).

This way, the tent is always the last thing to be loaded and the first to be removed - so we can pack everything up in the dry if it is raining outside. The tent can be pitched as one, or flysheet first. This is useful for packing a wet tent - the inner can be put in a bin liner to keep it separate from the wet fly. There are straps linking the bottom of each pole to the other side which ensures that the fly is pitched accurately. The inner suspends from toggles on the fly seams, and is secured at to base to the fly sheets pegging points by quick release buckles.

The tent pitches well and withstands very strong winds, continuous heavy rain and has enough ventilation for condensation not to be a problem. It has front and side doorways, and mosquito nets for the inner and the main side entance.

The only thing I hate about it is the red guylines. Red does not stand out against green grass.

We have a pannier each for our own clothes and stuff. Cooking gear and tomorrow's breakfast all go into a tank bag and the sleeping gear goes in the top box. Insulation mats are carried in a bag strapped to the grab rail on the off side of the bike. This is smaller than the tent bag and doesn't obscure the view in the mirror. We use two down filled 'blankets' rather than sleeping bags. These press-stud together and provide better insulating warmth than sleeping bags, for half the volume.

The tent is a Robens Voyager 2Ex. They are not cheap, but I find that you get what you pay for, and this is pretty good kit. I have been let down by cheaper tents, and we have had a Robens with a similar design (Black Shrimp) for years and it worked well for us. The blurb says that packed it is 43 x 17 cm and weighs 3.2kg - so that is 17 inches long x 6.6 inches diameter and 7lb.

I find that most modern tents have inadequate 'groundsheets' ie, they are not 100% waterproof and overnight it is possible to find that damp seeps through from the ground. This tent seems to have a more substantial base than many that I have seen recently, but we still take a waterproof PVC groundsheet with us. Ignore figures quoting hydrostatic head when jt comes to the groundsheet. That figure means that at some point, water will get through. I don't know what rating is given for the sheet on this tent, but my previous one was 10,000mm and we have woken with the area under our insulating air mats completely wet.

They wouldn't sell footprint groundsheets if the ones that come with the tent was 100% waterproof.

To be honest, I much prefer lightweight canvas tents. The early Vango Force 10 tents were brilliant. They pitch better, they are warmer and the canvas tightens when they get wet, which means that they don't flap about in strong winds - unlike synthetic materials which get slacker and noisier in the rain. But canvas tents are heavier, occupy more volume when packed and are difficult to pack into the same space that they arrived in after a night of rain. but if we go camping in the car, we take the Vango Force 10 with its extension flysheet.

Further information about the Robens tent in the photo is here:


We didn't pay anything like that quoted price for ours. It was about half of that IIRC. I could suggest ways that would make this design better, but so far this has done us proud, and it comes pretty close to what we need, without any of the annoying little traits that ere usually present in cheaper tents.

Apart from those red guys. I know that there is a 'colour blindness' to do with being unable to distinguish between red and green. It is hard to imagine how this can affect the people that have it. It all became very clear to me, as I picked myself up from the wet grass for the third time on one morning. Those guy lines just disappear into the grass.
 
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I like to camp, but besides a tent you need 2 sleeping bags and a mattresses which take more space that a tent alone.
Plus to fold the camp after a night rain or more so in a morning rain is no fun at all.
Its definitely harder two up. It's not only a trip, it's an adventure. Some of the worst weather make
some of the best memories ! It's a badge of honor, in your own mind!
 
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This is an older thread but worth reviving. Perhaps the OP needs a new tent now. Certainly others could benefit from it too.

I have a Marmot Limelight 2P and it fits in a 11 saddlebag easily. I put the rainfly, groundcloth, and tent body in the bag it came in. The pegs are in their own bag separate and so are the poles. There is even room left in the saddlebag for other stuff. Like a chair, emergency 1L fuel bottle, and toiletries bag. This tent has near vertical walls. Feeling much bigger than it really is. Two vestibules, vents, mesh pockets and two doors. I have not enjoyed being in a tent as much as this one. It's absolutely perfect for me.

My plan is to make or buy a bag that fits the 11 bags perfectly to get the tent spread out more. Therefor freeing up some room. As it is it kinda balls up and is awkward inside the saddlebag.

Below is it set up under the group shelter at Desoto State Park in AL.

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Rain is why I bring along a Noah's tarp. I can put that up first and take it down last. Here is my current setup except for the chair. I still have that one but bring a different camp chair that packs a lot smaller. The tent is an Alps Mountaineering Extreme 2 tent. It is an excellent tent for all weather. 2 vestibules and a center pole to pull out the sides making more space inside. I replace all my guy lines with fluorescent orange (where I could). This one stands up to high winds very well also. For 2 up camping there is the Extreme 3. And if you prefer an even tougher floor and zippers there is the outfitter version of the Extreme 3. All cost less than most other high end tents but stand up the same to those IMO. Both sizes fit easily in the saddlebags or top case. I pack mine in a separate dry bag that sits on the seat so I don't have to mix it with other stuff in case it does get wet.
 
Speaking of chairs, does anyone know of one that doesn't sit so low, but is more like a standard chair in seat height?

Even if I could sit in a chair that low, I'd have to roll out of it and crawl to something to hold onto in order to stand up.

Added: I mean one that collapses for packing.
 
I don't know if it would fit in a pannier, but it is small. The Boulder Creek Hiker 2 Dome Tent. You can buy it at Big 5 Sporting Goods. I picked mine up for $20. It was on sale, and I used some coupons.

I only have one "con" in regards to it. I'd love to see a vent at the top. But I'm not sure you really need it. I used it last summer and simply pulled the upwind side of the outer rain fly out of the way to get more airflow through the tent. Pay attention to how you set it up, and you should be fine.

I compared it on one trip with an MSR tent that cost about $120. So did the owner of the other tent, though I didn't know it till later. He liked mine better.

Chris
 
A vent at the top of a dome tent is essential, I find. Synthetic tents always get wet on the inside of the fly from condensation. Without a vent this gets excessive, and when the wind blows, it shakes off the condensation on the inside of the fly which sprays through the fine mesh of the inner. The more ventilation, the better. Better still if you can get a flow of air through the tent between the inner and outer. For a dome with a top vent, lifting the fly at ground level helps to create this flow. The best dome I ever had had a full door at opposite sides, both with mosquito nets. Wonderfully cool in summer, and options to have one door open , no matter from which direction the wind blows. Plenty of space for gear and headroom to sit upright. I loved it. But it was far too bulky for two up touring for 3 weeks at a time.

But note my location. I'm in the Uk, and rain on any camping / touring trip is the norm. I have the stuff that keeps us comfortable, warm and dry so that a bit of bad weather doesn't spoil the adventure. In other climates, the stuff that I take would be ridiculous.
 
Well I built it. Used box steel from the exhaust bolts straight back and a diamond plate shelf. Brace bar just behind the mudguard goes across and sits just above the exhaust. A flat steel bar goes from the subframe down through the mudguard to the brace bar. If the bolt fails the shelf will drop 5mm onto the exhaust so its impossible for it to hit the floor. Fits a 5kg tent perfect and clears the light. New number plate fitted. Old plate will have a bar bolted on the back with hooked ends so the luggage strap will hold both the tent and number plate. Solid as hell and just painted with black hammerite. Tent will be put in a bin bag and the end zip tied with a reusable tie I went with a big tent a proper 3 man so i can keep gear in the bedroom with me or use the porch and have two people plus me in the bedroom. double coleman sleeping bag will be rok strapped to the top box with grip matt under it. wont bother with a mattress. FB_IMG_1590014901057.jpgIMG-20200529-WA0003.jpegIMG-20200530-WA0001.jpeg
 
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Well I built it. Used box steel from the exhaust bolts straight back and a diamond plate shelf. Brace bar just behind the mudguard goes across and sits just above the exhaust. A flat steel bar goes from the subframe down through the mudguard to the brace bar. If the bolt fails the shelf will drop 5mm onto the exhaust so its impossible for it to hit the floor. Fits a 5kg tent perfect and clears the light. New number plate fitted. Old plate will have a bar bolted on the back with hooked ends so the luggage strap will hold both the tent and number plate. Solid as hell and just painted with black hammerite. Tent will be put in a bin bag and the end zip tied with a reusable tie I went with a big tent a proper 3 man so i can keep gear in the bedroom with me or use the porch and have two people plus me in the bedroom. double coleman sleeping bag will be rok strapped to the top box with grip matt under it. wont bother with a mattress. FB_IMG_1590014901057.jpgIMG-20200529-WA0003.jpegIMG-20200530-WA0001.jpeg
where did the licenses plate go... never mind there won't be any police soon.
 
Well I built it.

That's an interesting idea. Is it easily removable to get the wheel out ? Just the exhaust bracket bolts and the flat bar between subframe and brace bar to remove ?

wont bother with a mattress.

Hmm. The ground gets very cold overnight. When I did a lot of walking and lightweight camping, I used that very thin flexible white packing sheet that is often used to as a protective envelope to pack delicate items like Tv screens. It takes up very little room but provides very effective insulation from the ground.
 
That's an interesting idea. Is it easily removable to get the wheel out ? Just the exhaust bracket bolts and the flat bar between subframe and brace bar to remove ?



Hmm. The ground gets very cold overnight. When I did a lot of walking and lightweight camping, I used that very thin flexible white packing sheet that is often used to as a protective envelope to pack delicate items like Tv screens. It takes up very little room but provides very effective insulation from the ground.
I cheated and dented the exhaust but it still wouldnt clear so i ground a flat on the axle bolt and now i can pull the axle and leave the shelf in place. I bought a very warm double sleeping bag but its big and 3.5kg heavy so i was worried that its too big to strap on the top box. found a square of ply lifted the topbox off and weighed it 5.5kg weighed the ply 1.5kg was going to cut the ply smaller but decided not two in case i want to carry extras like fold up chairs or thermal wrap to line the ground. thermal wrap is stupid light. funny enough i weighed my shopping this morning and it was 6kg going in a 5.5kg top box so a tent and a bit of ply is near half that so winning
 
I bought a very warm double sleeping bag but its big and 3.5kg heavy

My comment about ground insulation was made because no sleeping bag will stop the cold from underneath.

Insulation comes from trapped air. If you are lying on it, all of the air squashes and the cold gets through.
Down is one of the best insulators for sleeping bags, but it is useless underneath you. So we don't use sleeping bags at all. Instead we have a couple of products made by Thermarest in the Uk. Basecamp rectangular sleeping pad - foam filled, inflatable mat for ground insulation; and a Down filled quilt. We have singles that press- stud together. They now make doubles. Very warm, very light 1kg for the double, and packs very small. There is now a slighly heavier one for use in lower temperatures, which would be worth getting. I'

I'm not sure what ours weigh. We bought them many years ago.

When lightweight camping with a rucksack on your back, size and weight matters as well as comfort. So we head for the quality outdoor shops to get our gear. It tends to be expensive but we have used this same kit for the last 20 years.

After a wet day of riding, we need to be sure that we will be warm and dry. This kit does it for us, and we will go Camping and touring with the bike for 3 weeks at a time in Scotland.
 
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Great to know thank you. Gu
That's an interesting idea. Is it easily removable to get the wheel out ? Just the exhaust bracket bolts and the flat bar between subframe and brace bar to remove ?



Hmm. The ground gets very cold overnight. When I did a lot of walking and lightweight camping, I used that very thin flexible white packing sheet that is often used to as a protective envelope to pack delicate items like Tv screens. It takes up very little room but provides very effective insulation from the ground.
what white material is that? never heard of it before. could get thermawrap but being foil bubble wrap might make it worse
 
What white material is that?

I haven't got a clue what it is called. The only time we have ever come across it is in packaging, usually for electrical items. Sometimes they use bubble wrap which offers more shock resistance. Sometimes they use this stuff. We recently bought a flat screen colour TV, and it came in a pillow case of this white stuff. I cut it up into usable sized pieces for posting Christmas and Birthday presents - which is the only reason I happen to have some.

It is very flexible and is anywhere between 1mm and 0.5mm thick. It has the feel of polystyrene. Think of the feel of those free insulating cups that you used to be able to get for takeaway coffee, before they (quite rightly) switched back to using card. A sort of softish / plastic / foam feel. But it is quite tough and doesn't break apart like expanded polystyrene. It is made to protect against light knocks and scratches, but it has excellent insulating properties.

1593963955578.png

A friend and I saw some fluttering in a skip that we happened to be walking past one winter evening. We were gearing up for going on a 270 mile walk with camping gear over Easter. He grabbed this stuff out of the skip, put a layer on the cold pavement and sat down on it and waited - to see if the cold would come through - and for me to work out what he was doing.

And that is what we used, and what I continued to use for many years. It is so easy to pack away and to keep dry inside a rucksack. No need to have massive rolls of foam wrapped in black plastic bin liners ! These days, the ground is much harder than it was in 1974, I don't have to carry my gear on my back, and I am not eking out a living on a student income. So other solutions are a little more desirable.

[edit]A quick search - It seems to be like something they refer to as 'foam wrap'. Polythene foam or polyethylene foam. Comes in 1mm to 5mm thickness. The stuff I have, and the stuff that I first used is only about .5mm thick though.
 
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I haven't got a clue what it is called. The only time we have ever come across it is in packaging, usually for electrical items. Sometimes they use bubble wrap which offers more shock resistance. Sometimes they use this stuff. We recently bought a flat screen colour TV, and it came in a pillow case of this white stuff. I cut it up into usable sized pieces for posting Christmas and Birthday presents - which is the only reason I happen to have some.

It is very flexible and is anywhere between 1mm and 0.5mm thick. It has the feel of polystyrene. Think of the feel of those free insulating cups that you used to be able to get for takeaway coffee, before they (quite rightly) switched back to using card. A sort of softish / plastic / foam feel. But it is quite tough and doesn't break apart like expanded polystyrene. It is made to protect against light knocks and scratches, but it has excellent insulating properties.

1593963955578.png

A friend and I saw some fluttering in a skip that we happened to be walking past one winter evening. We were gearing up for going on a 270 mile walk with camping gear over Easter. He grabbed this stuff out of the skip, put a layer on the cold pavement and sat down on it and waited - to see if the cold would come through - and for me to work out what he was doing.

And that is what we used, and what I continued to use for many years. It is so easy to pack away and to keep dry inside a rucksack. No need to have massive rolls of foam wrapped in black plastic bin liners ! These days, the ground is much harder than it was in 1974, I don't have to carry my gear on my back, and I am not eking out a living on a student income. So other solutions are a little more desirable.

[edit]A quick search - It seems to be like something they refer to as 'foam wrap'. Polythene foam or polyethylene foam. Comes in 1mm to 5mm thickness. The stuff I have, and the stuff that I first used is only about .5mm thick though.
That is super helpful. I live in a bit of a ***** area where people who i rather didnt exist do. The best thing is those people love to dump rubbish in the street and often i see tv boxes so i can guess what would be inside. the pockets are two layers did you cut open to use it as one or leave it like a pocket. Your friend is a smart puppy. i just realised this is laminate flooring underlay. cheers
 
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