Between this project and Shp's UJM ST1100, just wondering what else can go wrong!!
Keep it up, youse guys have more gumption than I do.
Keep it up, youse guys have more gumption than I do.
1970 Honda SL100
- Thread starter bmcdonau
- Start date
I got most of the parts to install the cam tensioner, I'm missing one piece, but it's not critical to the installation, it keeps the cam chain on the lower sprocket if its loose.
All the parts on the tensioner shaft are here, including the oft missing rubber cap. Notice the rubber o-ring in the middle of the bolt.
Hook the chain on the crank sprocket.
Pull the chain tight so it doesn't fall off the lower sprocket.
Line up the timing mark for TDC on the compression stroke and make sure there is free play in the rockers because both valves are supposed to be closed here.
There wasn't free play so I spun it again (180 degrees) and this time I got free play in both rockers.
Then you fiddle with the sprocket to get the chain engaged and it lined up on the cam.
Once the sprocket is on, the circle at the top of the sprocket should line up with the indentation on top of the head. It didn't at first, so I pulled the sprocket off and moved it over one tooth and then it was on the other side of the mark so that's as close as I can get. You can see its on either side of the mark in the last two pictures. I can adjust for that by moving the points plate.
The housing goes over the cam sprocket and will hold the points plate.
This is the cam tensioner bolt in the upper right hand part of the picture.
The hardware which will hold the tensioner on to the tensioner bolt installed.
The entire tensioner installed. Notice the difference between it and the older type that was installed when I took the engine apart.
All the parts on the tensioner shaft are here, including the oft missing rubber cap. Notice the rubber o-ring in the middle of the bolt.
Hook the chain on the crank sprocket.
Pull the chain tight so it doesn't fall off the lower sprocket.
Line up the timing mark for TDC on the compression stroke and make sure there is free play in the rockers because both valves are supposed to be closed here.
There wasn't free play so I spun it again (180 degrees) and this time I got free play in both rockers.
Then you fiddle with the sprocket to get the chain engaged and it lined up on the cam.
Once the sprocket is on, the circle at the top of the sprocket should line up with the indentation on top of the head. It didn't at first, so I pulled the sprocket off and moved it over one tooth and then it was on the other side of the mark so that's as close as I can get. You can see its on either side of the mark in the last two pictures. I can adjust for that by moving the points plate.
The housing goes over the cam sprocket and will hold the points plate.
This is the cam tensioner bolt in the upper right hand part of the picture.
The hardware which will hold the tensioner on to the tensioner bolt installed.
The entire tensioner installed. Notice the difference between it and the older type that was installed when I took the engine apart.
I finished up the motor this week and can't decide if I want to stick it in the chassis and see if it runs or wait until the frame is blasted and repainted and the forks and shocks are replaced. I'll have to make up my mind soon.
The points cover was dull and lifeless so I polished it up with a small brass wheel and mothers polish and it looks much better
A new gasket.
I'll find a NOS one later, but its not a priority with shocks and fork tubes to buy.
Same for the alternator cover, it has a gouge in it, looks like from a misadjusted gear shift lever.
the neutral switch gets a new o-ring.
It goes here.
I had to splice a little bit of wire onto the end because its stranded and the end had frayed.
I used allen head bolts in stainless instead of the hex bolts that it came with.
I had forgotten that I bought allen head stainless steel screws for the points nd went back and took out the NOS philips screws and replaced them.
Finally I put all the covers back on.
The finished engine.
I took the forks apart because there was a fork tube on ebay that said it was for an SL 100, but after measuring these tubes I could tell it wasn't.
Nothing salvagable in side at all, luckily they aren't complex but the parts aren't available from Honda so I'll have to get lucky to find them.
The front wheel is good, not much rust on the outside or inside, but the back is marginal. I don't know whether to spring for two new rims or just try to find a rear and hope for the best. I hate to go to all the effort to put new spokes in a bad rim.
The points cover was dull and lifeless so I polished it up with a small brass wheel and mothers polish and it looks much better
A new gasket.
I'll find a NOS one later, but its not a priority with shocks and fork tubes to buy.
Same for the alternator cover, it has a gouge in it, looks like from a misadjusted gear shift lever.
the neutral switch gets a new o-ring.
It goes here.
I had to splice a little bit of wire onto the end because its stranded and the end had frayed.
I used allen head bolts in stainless instead of the hex bolts that it came with.
I had forgotten that I bought allen head stainless steel screws for the points nd went back and took out the NOS philips screws and replaced them.
Finally I put all the covers back on.
The finished engine.
I took the forks apart because there was a fork tube on ebay that said it was for an SL 100, but after measuring these tubes I could tell it wasn't.
Nothing salvagable in side at all, luckily they aren't complex but the parts aren't available from Honda so I'll have to get lucky to find them.
The front wheel is good, not much rust on the outside or inside, but the back is marginal. I don't know whether to spring for two new rims or just try to find a rear and hope for the best. I hate to go to all the effort to put new spokes in a bad rim.
Looking good, Dennis; lots of work in the motor.
(Was shoveling some sand down by the street last week and an adult went tootling down the road on a Z-50 that looked good. He was WAY too big for it.
)
(Was shoveling some sand down by the street last week and an adult went tootling down the road on a Z-50 that looked good. He was WAY too big for it.
)
After thinking about the forks, I think most of the internals were missing. Looking at the parts breakdown, I'm going to need to source most of the parts. I have found both sets of fork springs (there are two) and Honda has the hardware, but two pices are going to be difficult to find although there are one of each on ebay right now. Its going to take some time and I need to move this along so I started other things while I think about what I don't have right now.
The front wheel was good, no rust on the outside and very little on the inside. I removed the spokes and stripped the hub.
I had a little helper in the shop today, here he is taking the spokes off the hub.
My kids have been a great disappointment to me, five of them and not a one is remotely interested in working with their hands on anything:rofl:. Now that we have grandkids maybe there is hope:mrgreen:.
The wheel bearings are a interference fit so they are hard to get out, in this case you need something like this bearing puller, although it really works like a bearing pounder.
Insert the correct size fitting, then engage the bar and
then you pound it out.
Then you have to get the bearing off the puller.
The front hub stripped of bearings and gears.
This is the speedo gears in the hub.
The gear is held in by an aluminum bushing which is threaded to take the speedo cable and is held in by a very small set screw. Once the set screw is removed the bushing is pounded out with a small drift.
And this is how it looks after its cleaned up.
The front hub has some kind of shiney coating which looks like low luster chrome while the rear hub is painted
The front hub itself polished right up, but the brake plate had some pretty deep corrosion and after I sanded it out and polished it I realized the underlying aluminum will polish to a mirror like finish while the coating only gets shiney.
The rear rim is no good so I just stripped the hub.
After stripping the rear hub all I had left was the rubber cush bushings so I decided to take them out too. My first inclination was to stick a screw in it and pull it out, but that didn't work.
Next, I drilled out the rubber then grabbed the inner metal sleeve with long nose pliers and pulled them out.
I ended breaking the long nose pliers on one of them.
After I got the rubber and metal sleeve out I found out there was an outer metal sleeve that was stuck, all four. I ended up using a cold chisel to split them, mangling them in the process, and disloged them enough to pull them out.
I decided to just strip off the coating on the front hub and paint on the rear hub and applied paint stripper to both. Nothing, nada, the stripper didn't affect either the paint or the metallic coating. I'll just be priming and painting the rear hub and the front brake plate.
Putting the bearings in takes a press or in this case a hammer and socket.
Well crap, my balancing stand is too big for the small wheel bearings so I had to figure something out. I have the front wheel axel, but it is too short to fit on the balancing stand. I fabricated a temporary stand out of wood that did the job.
First I cut the base out of 2X and then made the two arms out of 1X. They had to be exactly the same so the wheel would roll true so I taped them together then cut a vee shape the axel could rest in.
Cutting to a line is pretty easy for me after years of practice.
Here's one of my past project, made completely with hand tools. Its made of Cuban Mahogany and curly maple with a little purple heart and ebony.
Notice the white pine drawer pull? All the others are ebony and that one broke and I haven't turned another.
It got me going and I was able to true the rim within the 2mm tolerance.
The wheel looks pretty good if I do say so myself.
The front wheel was good, no rust on the outside and very little on the inside. I removed the spokes and stripped the hub.
I had a little helper in the shop today, here he is taking the spokes off the hub.
My kids have been a great disappointment to me, five of them and not a one is remotely interested in working with their hands on anything:rofl:. Now that we have grandkids maybe there is hope:mrgreen:.
The wheel bearings are a interference fit so they are hard to get out, in this case you need something like this bearing puller, although it really works like a bearing pounder.
Insert the correct size fitting, then engage the bar and
then you pound it out.
Then you have to get the bearing off the puller.
The front hub stripped of bearings and gears.
This is the speedo gears in the hub.
The gear is held in by an aluminum bushing which is threaded to take the speedo cable and is held in by a very small set screw. Once the set screw is removed the bushing is pounded out with a small drift.
And this is how it looks after its cleaned up.
The front hub has some kind of shiney coating which looks like low luster chrome while the rear hub is painted
The front hub itself polished right up, but the brake plate had some pretty deep corrosion and after I sanded it out and polished it I realized the underlying aluminum will polish to a mirror like finish while the coating only gets shiney.
The rear rim is no good so I just stripped the hub.
After stripping the rear hub all I had left was the rubber cush bushings so I decided to take them out too. My first inclination was to stick a screw in it and pull it out, but that didn't work.
Next, I drilled out the rubber then grabbed the inner metal sleeve with long nose pliers and pulled them out.
I ended breaking the long nose pliers on one of them.
After I got the rubber and metal sleeve out I found out there was an outer metal sleeve that was stuck, all four. I ended up using a cold chisel to split them, mangling them in the process, and disloged them enough to pull them out.
I decided to just strip off the coating on the front hub and paint on the rear hub and applied paint stripper to both. Nothing, nada, the stripper didn't affect either the paint or the metallic coating. I'll just be priming and painting the rear hub and the front brake plate.
Putting the bearings in takes a press or in this case a hammer and socket.
Well crap, my balancing stand is too big for the small wheel bearings so I had to figure something out. I have the front wheel axel, but it is too short to fit on the balancing stand. I fabricated a temporary stand out of wood that did the job.
First I cut the base out of 2X and then made the two arms out of 1X. They had to be exactly the same so the wheel would roll true so I taped them together then cut a vee shape the axel could rest in.
Cutting to a line is pretty easy for me after years of practice.
Here's one of my past project, made completely with hand tools. Its made of Cuban Mahogany and curly maple with a little purple heart and ebony.
Notice the white pine drawer pull? All the others are ebony and that one broke and I haven't turned another.
It got me going and I was able to true the rim within the 2mm tolerance.
The wheel looks pretty good if I do say so myself.
Okay, I'm overwhelmed. I thought this project was getting over the top, but the tool cabinet show's you've got the patience to build yur own Space Shuttle.
Great job on the rear wheel. Where did ya find new cush drive parts?
Great job on the rear wheel. Where did ya find new cush drive parts?
Honda had them George.
Well, making more progress, I found all the fork internals between Honda and several vintage parts suppliers, now I have to decide if I need to buy new springs. The set I have are corroded because the forks were full of water. I bought a set of NOS shocks from ebay, sill in the box, and dropped the frame and misc bits off at the sand blaster. I've decided to paint all the silver parts with the silver engine paint so the frame, engine, and brake parts match. I also had them blast the rear rim so I can see if it is salvagable.
I got a surprise on c-list today, there was an SL100 tank for sale in Boerne so I went out and took a look. Cosmetically its better than any I have although its pretty rusty inside. I have a one tank that's pristine inside tank, but all beat up on the outside. I bought this one and have already begun stripping-will post pictures later.
Turns out they actually had several SLs and other smaller Hondas along with a 1972 350 Harley with 2200 miles on it. The SL tank came from the father's bike he rode as a kid and they had an SL350 that belonged to the grandfather. They also had another SL100 that was complete, but a non runner.We had a nice chat about old bikes and riding in the 60s and 70s. I offered to buy both the SL100 and SL350, but they turned me down. You don't know until you try!
Turns out they actually had several SLs and other smaller Hondas along with a 1972 350 Harley with 2200 miles on it. The SL tank came from the father's bike he rode as a kid and they had an SL350 that belonged to the grandfather. They also had another SL100 that was complete, but a non runner.We had a nice chat about old bikes and riding in the 60s and 70s. I offered to buy both the SL100 and SL350, but they turned me down. You don't know until you try!
Well, I got a disappointment today, I had found two of the fork parts in Australia, and it turns out the guy only had one so I'll have to keep looking for the other. I did buy some correct NOS shocks so I have one end suspended! I have to wait until next month to buy the fork tubes anyway. I did find a NOS rear rim so when I get all the fork parts it'll be on two wheels.
I dropped all the painted parts off at the sandblaster and they are done, but I won't be able to pick them up until Friday. It was $60 for everything but the skid plate which I forgot to take. I am using the silver engine paint, which is a ceramic paint, to paint the silver parts, but I need to get some durable black paint for the air box and skid plate. I think I'll probably end up buying it from Eastwoods, I like the looks of their frame paint.
I picked up this gas tank, it was in much better conditon than either of the ones I had.
It needs cleaning inside.
I stripped it down to bare metal and found lots of rust beneath the paint and a pinhole.
I'm not a good welder, but It stopped the leak.
I kept at the rust, spraying it with phosphoric acid and hitting it with a wire wheel until there was very rust left and what was there was black.
Here's the outside finished.
I have some cleaner and sealer coming from POR15 to finish the inside. Once its cleaned and sealed I'll finish sand the outside and shoot it Candy Sapphire Blue.
This is another project I'm looking at, its off a '75 CB400F. Looks like **** outside, but is pristine inside. I don't know how to put it back in shape yet. I'm contemplating welding something to the outside and pulling it out or just cutting it open and hammering it back into shape and rewelding it back together. It has the early type nonlocking gas cap.
Finally, this engine has a good case I need to fix the cam adjustment on my CB400F. Once the SL100 is done I'll start on that.
I dropped all the painted parts off at the sandblaster and they are done, but I won't be able to pick them up until Friday. It was $60 for everything but the skid plate which I forgot to take. I am using the silver engine paint, which is a ceramic paint, to paint the silver parts, but I need to get some durable black paint for the air box and skid plate. I think I'll probably end up buying it from Eastwoods, I like the looks of their frame paint.
I picked up this gas tank, it was in much better conditon than either of the ones I had.
It needs cleaning inside.
I stripped it down to bare metal and found lots of rust beneath the paint and a pinhole.
I'm not a good welder, but It stopped the leak.
I kept at the rust, spraying it with phosphoric acid and hitting it with a wire wheel until there was very rust left and what was there was black.
Here's the outside finished.
I have some cleaner and sealer coming from POR15 to finish the inside. Once its cleaned and sealed I'll finish sand the outside and shoot it Candy Sapphire Blue.
This is another project I'm looking at, its off a '75 CB400F. Looks like **** outside, but is pristine inside. I don't know how to put it back in shape yet. I'm contemplating welding something to the outside and pulling it out or just cutting it open and hammering it back into shape and rewelding it back together. It has the early type nonlocking gas cap.
Finally, this engine has a good case I need to fix the cam adjustment on my CB400F. Once the SL100 is done I'll start on that.
Man, you got too much time on yur hands. Why don't you grab a helmet 'n a bike 'n GO RIDE!!!
Because its been 104-106 the last two weeks. I've been off since May 4, but started teaching a three hour summer class on June 6, it'll be over July 6 and then we start over again in September.
Makin' progress.
I managed to buy two side covers on e-bay and didn't spend too much. I had to bid on about 30 of them to do it though!
This is what it looked like when I started. One only had the original candy ruby red paint although it was scratched up. The other (with the decal) had the original ruby red paint plus silver and red.
I used a random orbital sander on it for the flat part, then the real work started. I spent the better part of this afternoon sitting on the back porch with a piece of sand paper.
I started with one NOS fender and one I bought cheap.
The NOS one was understandably in better shape than the used one.
After I cleaned it up I found it it originally had been candy apple green.
It was also bent a little.
You can see they mounting brackets are uneven here.
I put it in a vice and pulled and pushed and even used a hammer on it and got it fairly square.
But it also cracked. My usual bad welding job, but its solid.
and it didn't clean up too bad.
I also had to reweld one of the spot welds that came loose.
Then I spent a lot of time with paint stripper cleaning all the parts I'm going to paint.
Then I sanded them and sprayed them with phosphoric acid to stop the rust.
Finally, there was more sanding (and sometimes more phosphoric acid) and filling and priming. I had the biggest part of the frame parts sand blasted, but I still had lots of little pieces left and the tins to strip. I'm going to end up painting some pieces that were just zinc plated. I'm going to figure out how to do that later and I'll strip them back down and plate them.
I also took apart another front hub and found a better one than I had, all it took was a little degreaser and mother's aluminum polish. Then I put the innards back in it and stuck it into the rim.
Here's the speedometer gear drive.
Back in the rim and ready to go.
Once I get the frame painted I can start putting it back together. I'm still missing some parts such as the headlight and taillight and I can't find the rear brake stay, but I'm sure I had it somewhere.
The shocks came in.
I need to sort through all the new stuff to find out what I'm still missing. I need to keep better records, but then I'd know how much I spent and it'd scare me.
Hopefully I'll get the frame painting done this week and figure out how I'm going to get the sapphire candy blue out of Du Pont paint.
I still have to sort out the forks since I'm missing a couple pieces. One of the fork tubes I have is rust free so I need to locate one other good one to make a set. If I can find a used one it will save me $350.
I managed to buy two side covers on e-bay and didn't spend too much. I had to bid on about 30 of them to do it though!
This is what it looked like when I started. One only had the original candy ruby red paint although it was scratched up. The other (with the decal) had the original ruby red paint plus silver and red.
I used a random orbital sander on it for the flat part, then the real work started. I spent the better part of this afternoon sitting on the back porch with a piece of sand paper.
I started with one NOS fender and one I bought cheap.
The NOS one was understandably in better shape than the used one.
After I cleaned it up I found it it originally had been candy apple green.
It was also bent a little.
You can see they mounting brackets are uneven here.
I put it in a vice and pulled and pushed and even used a hammer on it and got it fairly square.
But it also cracked. My usual bad welding job, but its solid.
and it didn't clean up too bad.
I also had to reweld one of the spot welds that came loose.
Then I spent a lot of time with paint stripper cleaning all the parts I'm going to paint.
Then I sanded them and sprayed them with phosphoric acid to stop the rust.
Finally, there was more sanding (and sometimes more phosphoric acid) and filling and priming. I had the biggest part of the frame parts sand blasted, but I still had lots of little pieces left and the tins to strip. I'm going to end up painting some pieces that were just zinc plated. I'm going to figure out how to do that later and I'll strip them back down and plate them.
I also took apart another front hub and found a better one than I had, all it took was a little degreaser and mother's aluminum polish. Then I put the innards back in it and stuck it into the rim.
Here's the speedometer gear drive.
Back in the rim and ready to go.
Once I get the frame painted I can start putting it back together. I'm still missing some parts such as the headlight and taillight and I can't find the rear brake stay, but I'm sure I had it somewhere.
The shocks came in.
I need to sort through all the new stuff to find out what I'm still missing. I need to keep better records, but then I'd know how much I spent and it'd scare me.
Hopefully I'll get the frame painting done this week and figure out how I'm going to get the sapphire candy blue out of Du Pont paint.
I still have to sort out the forks since I'm missing a couple pieces. One of the fork tubes I have is rust free so I need to locate one other good one to make a set. If I can find a used one it will save me $350.
The frame is finished! I used steel wool to smooth the primer instead of sand paper. It gets into the nooks and crannies better.
Here's the silver pieces drying.
Rear hub and front backing plate. I found a backing plate in better condition, but this one was ready to paint so I shot it too.
The frame. I think I need tbuild or modify something to hold the frame by the neck so I can rotate it to shoot the paint.
Swingarm and kickstand.
Steering stem and what honda calls the step, it holds the footpegs.
The engine mounting brackets
Honda's welding has gotten better over the last 40 years.
The air box and a few other pieces are black. I don't know why, but that's the way they came from the factory. I used an Eastwood semigloss for these parts. The air box was tough to paint, with all the angles and brackets. I couldn't avoid overspray you can see on the back of the box.
Skidplate, airbox and cover and ignition stay.
Skidplate and inner fender
Here's the silver pieces drying.
Rear hub and front backing plate. I found a backing plate in better condition, but this one was ready to paint so I shot it too.
The frame. I think I need tbuild or modify something to hold the frame by the neck so I can rotate it to shoot the paint.
Swingarm and kickstand.
Steering stem and what honda calls the step, it holds the footpegs.
The engine mounting brackets
Honda's welding has gotten better over the last 40 years.
The air box and a few other pieces are black. I don't know why, but that's the way they came from the factory. I used an Eastwood semigloss for these parts. The air box was tough to paint, with all the angles and brackets. I couldn't avoid overspray you can see on the back of the box.
Skidplate, airbox and cover and ignition stay.
Skidplate and inner fender
I feel like I'm watching a really good season of 'This Old House'. Is it bad if I compare you to Bob Vila? ;-)
I'm ADD so I tend to jump around from task to task and this bike is making it worse. I've got a lot of new or replacement parts, but I'm still finding I don't have everything I need. I've had to go back and order a nut or bolt and I still need one fork tube.
I started to install the air box
I found a NOS air filter, it even came oiled. I put it together and went to install it and found I'd neglected to order the rubber bushings that go between the frame and air filter box. They're cheap, but it'll take a week to arrive.
I went ahead and installed these new grommets.
They hold the side panels on the bike.
Next I installed the inner rear fender.
I used off the shelf stainless steel bolts, grade 8.
Then I moved on to the rear hub and relaced the wheel.
First, I cleaned the wheel bearings.
I changed the solvent once to make sure I got all the old grease out of the wheel bearings. I ended up throwing one away and reused one.
I used a socket to drive home the cush bushing. One the bushes were installed I laced the wheel.
Here's the hub with the spokes installed. There are two spokes, one with a 90 degree bend and one with less than a 90 degree bend. The 90 degree bend goes on the outside and the one with less goes on the inside.
The old spokes left these indentations in the aluminum hub so I don't have to figure out how to start lacing the rim. Saved me a lot of head scratching I'm sure.
Here it is partially laced.
The finished wheel. I hand tightened up the spokes so the wheel became rigid and easy to handle. Next I installed the bearings and the rest of the hardware.
The bolts just slip into the bushes.
This is important, the bolts have a flat spot on them which is supposed to engage with the sprocket so the bolt doesn't turn when you tighten it. I got smart and tightened them up in the sprocket and tried to stick them into the hub, but they weren't lined up with the holes in the bushings and had to do it again.
This circlip is actually what holds the sprocket on the hub. You can see the bearing and seal underneath the circlip.
Once the special washers are installed you pinch them onto the nuts and the sprocket is secured to the cush drive. Then you snap on the circlip.
Now I can true the rim.
The completed rim, which is a NOS item.
I derusted and sealed the tank using POR 15 products.
You clean the tank with marine clean, then derust it with metal prep and finally apply the sealer.
Once I cleaned the tank it started leaking.
I guess the cleaner pulled the gunk out of this pinhole. I welded it up and everything was good.
One it was cleaned and etched, I applied the sealer which should fix any potential new pinholes. The sealer is strange stuff, its not just a top coat like creme. You get about 7/8 of the sealer back out of the tank and I dumped it in a large, flat, plastic container so it could dry quickly--it ate right through the plastic. The directions say you can apply it right over rust as long as its not loose so it must chemically react with the rust.
I also dropped these off to be rechromed. The small wire bail was originally zinc plated, they the plater I use doesn't do zinc.
This holds the speedo cable to the front fender.
These actually look pretty good except for some surface rust.
I also built the step which holds the footpegs.
I was able to buy everything except the small springs which keep the footpegs extended. Luckily I had a pretty good set.
They looked pretty good when I was done, unfortunately I couldn't press the rubbers on to the pegs. I had to disassemble them and use a vice to push them on.
It actually went on pretty easy considering.
I also used a vice to install the bushings into the swing arm.
I tried to install the bushing and it went almost all the way on and then stopped. I reefed on it until I thought something would break and finally figured out that the center part was flexing and actually hitting the other side of the vice. I stuck this socket on the swing arm which gave it room to flex without stopping the vice.
Finally I installed the steering stem race. They went in pretty easily with a punch and hammer.
I started to install the air box
I found a NOS air filter, it even came oiled. I put it together and went to install it and found I'd neglected to order the rubber bushings that go between the frame and air filter box. They're cheap, but it'll take a week to arrive.
I went ahead and installed these new grommets.
They hold the side panels on the bike.
Next I installed the inner rear fender.
I used off the shelf stainless steel bolts, grade 8.
Then I moved on to the rear hub and relaced the wheel.
First, I cleaned the wheel bearings.
I changed the solvent once to make sure I got all the old grease out of the wheel bearings. I ended up throwing one away and reused one.
I used a socket to drive home the cush bushing. One the bushes were installed I laced the wheel.
Here's the hub with the spokes installed. There are two spokes, one with a 90 degree bend and one with less than a 90 degree bend. The 90 degree bend goes on the outside and the one with less goes on the inside.
The old spokes left these indentations in the aluminum hub so I don't have to figure out how to start lacing the rim. Saved me a lot of head scratching I'm sure.
Here it is partially laced.
The finished wheel. I hand tightened up the spokes so the wheel became rigid and easy to handle. Next I installed the bearings and the rest of the hardware.
The bolts just slip into the bushes.
This is important, the bolts have a flat spot on them which is supposed to engage with the sprocket so the bolt doesn't turn when you tighten it. I got smart and tightened them up in the sprocket and tried to stick them into the hub, but they weren't lined up with the holes in the bushings and had to do it again.
This circlip is actually what holds the sprocket on the hub. You can see the bearing and seal underneath the circlip.
Once the special washers are installed you pinch them onto the nuts and the sprocket is secured to the cush drive. Then you snap on the circlip.
Now I can true the rim.
The completed rim, which is a NOS item.
I derusted and sealed the tank using POR 15 products.
You clean the tank with marine clean, then derust it with metal prep and finally apply the sealer.
Once I cleaned the tank it started leaking.
I guess the cleaner pulled the gunk out of this pinhole. I welded it up and everything was good.
One it was cleaned and etched, I applied the sealer which should fix any potential new pinholes. The sealer is strange stuff, its not just a top coat like creme. You get about 7/8 of the sealer back out of the tank and I dumped it in a large, flat, plastic container so it could dry quickly--it ate right through the plastic. The directions say you can apply it right over rust as long as its not loose so it must chemically react with the rust.
I also dropped these off to be rechromed. The small wire bail was originally zinc plated, they the plater I use doesn't do zinc.
This holds the speedo cable to the front fender.
These actually look pretty good except for some surface rust.
I also built the step which holds the footpegs.
I was able to buy everything except the small springs which keep the footpegs extended. Luckily I had a pretty good set.
They looked pretty good when I was done, unfortunately I couldn't press the rubbers on to the pegs. I had to disassemble them and use a vice to push them on.
It actually went on pretty easy considering.
I also used a vice to install the bushings into the swing arm.
I tried to install the bushing and it went almost all the way on and then stopped. I reefed on it until I thought something would break and finally figured out that the center part was flexing and actually hitting the other side of the vice. I stuck this socket on the swing arm which gave it room to flex without stopping the vice.
Finally I installed the steering stem race. They went in pretty easily with a punch and hammer.
opcorn Awaiting final assembly
George, unless I find another fork tube its going to be like a three legged dog for awhile. One of the fork tubes I have is rust free and the other three are badly pitted. I thought I'd found one on e-bay, but when it arrived it was for a CL, not an SL. I can't believe Honda actually made different forks for the CB, CL and SL 100s. Just shows how much engineering Honda put into these bikes. Anyway, a new set cost over $300 from Franks Maintenance and Engineering and motorcycle money is going to be tight for a few months since we just bought Kathy's CB250R.