I removed all the parts I can off the bottom end and took off the top end today. I'm stuck until I get the rotor puller I ordered from Motion Pro. I halfheartedly looked for a 16 mm 1.5 bolt today, but no one seems to stock one that large.
The clutch was pretty easy to get off, pull out the actuator, loosen four bolts and slip off this collar that holds the springs.
Then this circlip comes off and off comes the clutch basket along with the steel and fiber plates. This was a wierd looking circlip--there weren't any holes in the end to grab.
This is next item to come off, its called the external shift mechanism. The engine shift actually exits the case on the right side and uses this mechanism to connect to the shift shaft which then transverses the entire engine and comes out on the left. I guess the bottom end of this engine dates from the time when things shifted on the right.
The removal steps.
this is one of the things you have to be aware of when you take things apart. That little nub looks like its molded into that bushing sticking out of the case.
In reality, its a small piece of metal which is easily lost if you don't know it comes out.
Everything is off the right side of the engine.
On to the head.
Removing the points and mechanical advancer to pull the cam. More of the same type of screw heads. I had to get out the easy out again.
removing the head only required removing four acorn nuts and one long bolt plus disconnecting the cam tensioner. This is the bolt that secured the cam tensioner. More hamfisted mechanics. I don't know why this bolt didn't strip out the threads from the head or break off in the head.
The head removed.
I turned the crank and the piston movement popped the cylinder off the cases. Cool, I've had to fight some of these for hours to get the head off. Multicylinder bikes can take days.
piston and rings don't look good.
Neither does the cam tensioner. The guide which goes on the other side looked pretty good though.
This is the journal in the head where the cam rides. Its gouged and scored. Luckily, I bought another head when I bought the cylinder. They came off the same bike and I thought it'd be a good idea to keep them as a set.
I wiggled the piston to see if it had any play in the wrist pin and it did. Problem is I don't know if its the pin, the conneting rod or the piston. I probably should replace all three if I can find the parts. It all depends what the machine shop tells me about the cylinder bore.
the piston and rod look bad.
I have to get my head around the parts I'll need and I'm terriable at making lists.
The rotor puller should be in Wednesday and I can split the cases and take out the crank. This is a two piece crank and I'll need the machine shop to take it apart and replace the connecting rod if I go that route.
Stay tuned.
