180/55-17 Tires on ST

Ok, got some good input from people actually riding on a 180.

Thanks, now do you feel any diference or improvement from running the stock 170? I too have spun the rear coming out of a tight turn. (we have some tight twisty mt/canyon roads here in SoCal) :D Not so sure it's due to tire size as to the BT020 just feeling a bit greasy compared to the Dunlop Qualifiers I ran on the SV1K.

If there is no advantage in size due to the contact patch points that have been made then the only advantage would be the slightly higher load capacity of the 180. For the life of me I can't understand why Honda went with the 170 when even BMW went with a 180 on a lower powered R12 weighing nearly 200lbs less...:shrug2:

From what I've been reading I may just go with the Dunlop Roadsmart in stock sizes as soon as I can wear these out.;)
 
I have a 180 Avon Storm on my 05.
I will be replacing it with a 170 when it is time to replace.
Found that I need to work it to turn into the corners. It does not seem to keep a clean line and the wear has been much shorter than the previous 170 Avon Storm.
I do Like the look but the adverse effects in Handling will force me to stay with a stock size.
 
I have another take on this issue. I too am wondering about the 180/55R-17. Michelin Pilot Road 2 has a single size (180/55-17) model designated as "2B" that is purposely meant for two-up riding or touring loaded. At 290 lbs. I am wondering if this wouldn't be a smart decision for me next time I need a rear tire.

I posed this same question to Tim at TwoBrothers in a PM. I'll let you know what he thinks.
 
I love these threads:



c. Poster and others argue back, proposing in effect that they know more about the bike than the designers/engineers did...



:D:D:D

You mean the same guys that designed/engineered the fork springs,rear shock,handlebars,seat, exhaust,air cleaner,fuel pressure regulator,windshield, rear wheel bearings.
 
You mean the same guys that designed/engineered the fork springs,rear shock,handlebars,seat, exhaust,air cleaner,fuel pressure regulator,windshield, rear wheel bearings.

My thoughts exactly!

Thats what these forums are for.
 
My thoughts exactly!

Thats what these forums are for.

I was reading my owners manual today looking for something else when I ran across the admonition not to run other than OEM sizes on ABS bikes because the ring sensors read wheel speed and wrong size tires affect delta between actual wheel rotation speed and that of original design parameters. I would guess it [running size up tire] may adversely affect ABS operation as the wheels are turning at a slightly different set of speeds than the computer is expecting.
 
Well, as it turns out, I was riding into work today and heard the awful crunch sound of my rear wheel being punctured. Grrrrr. I had expected this might happen with all the debris from Ike being hauled around, but it still torques me!

Fortunately it didn't cause a pressure leak of any consequence. So I got to work and called some shops - since my tire still had about 60% left, I was going to attempt to plug it since it looked to be in a place that would be safe to plug. I've always been against plugging a motorcycle tire, but since I didn't have any long distance trips planned, I was going to risk it.

On my to the shop to get it plugged I passed by a house fire. The emergency services weren't there yet (I saw them far back on the freeway as I passed by). The house had flames jutting out the window. It gave me a little bit better perspective that I shouldn't be so upset about the stupid nail.

Once at the shop the guy looked at it and since the angle of the nail was diagonal, he didn't feel very comfortable about plugging it - and seemed sincere about it. He said he had a slightly used 180 that would fit. I hadn't even considered using a 180 before and was quite nervous about having it put on. But for a fairly new tire (Michelin Pilot - like the one I had on, except the 180 part) and for $50, I thought it was a pretty good deal. So now I have 90% tread, but I'm trying the 180.

Handling seems like others have suggested that the turns are maybe less responsive and a little wider. Not a major difference, but if I were a motorcycle cop I'd probably stick with the 170's just for that extra edge.

My primary concern was the bead. I don't ride too extreme, but there is security in following the design parameters. Seems like others are riding 180's and haven't lost pressure, so I guess that concern can fall back a little.

I suspect I'll go back to 170's, but for now, I've got some time to try the 180 out.
 
I love these threads:

a. Poster asks for information on using a non-recommended item, one outside the design parameters of the bike.

b. A number of other posters propose that maybe the designers had good reasons for their design parameter decisions.

c. Poster and others argue back, proposing in effect that they know more about the bike than the designers/engineers did...

etc. etc. etc... ad nauseum...

:D:D:D

I have found through the years after riding numerous bikes and posting on numerous forums that the riders often do know more about the bikes than the designers. A forum with thousands of riders logging millions of miles with a multiplicity of variations on the theme can more thoroughly road test a machine (exponentially) than any factory team of technicians and testers.

Keep trying new things and posting your results. That's how progress takes place.:04biker:
 
Just some thoughts:

If you talk to the "go fast guys", many track day type riders are actually going in the opposite direction. The original ZRX1100's came with a 5.00" rim and a 170/60 rear tire (just like the ST). A lot of them are going to 160/60 rear tires which actually gives a larger footprint and quicker/more nimbler turn in.

I own both an ST1300, a 2002 VFR800, and a KTM Duke II. The ST (as we all know) has a 5.00 inch rim with a 170/60 rear tire. The VFR800 comes with a 5.5 inch rear rim and a 180/55 rear tire. Go figure. The Duke II has a 5.00 inch wide rear rim on which I run a 160/60. It puts down a lot of meat on the asphalt.

More and more I am finding that 170/60 x 17 tires are becoming an "odd ball" tire size. There are a lot of manufacturers who simply skip over this size in certain tire models. They go straight from 160/60 to 180/55 without any 170/60 tire what so ever.

Truly want to go the 180/55 route and do it right? Send you rear wheel to Kosman Industries and have them widen it a half inch. Run you $425.
 
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I have a 180/55 zr17 pilot road 4 on the rear at the moment . A 170/60 is roughly 6 3/4 " wide . A 180/55 is about 7 3/32" wide . A difference of roughly 3/8 th's of an inch in width. 60 % of 170 = 102 mm . 55% of 180 is 99 mm . A difference of 3 mm in height . The moral of the story is that I don't really notice any difference running the 180 on the rear.
 
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