Living with Code 25/26

rdmnt2002

rdmnt2002

Joined
Apr 17, 2023
Messages
51
Age
56
Location
New Hampshire
Bike
2006 ST1300
Hi All,

Thankfully, I am not a victim of the Code 25/26 issue yet. But, right now I could get 4 to 5K dollars for my ST. If I get the ECU issue, obviously, the value plummets.

My question is, are any of you living with the issue and simply continuing to operate the bike. If so, what has the impact to the bikes behavior been. I have seen some comments that you really can’t tell there is a problem to the bike has no power and gets horrible gas mileage.

If your willing, please share specific details about your experience.

I love my ST and I just want to better understand if I can just live with the issue if it happens.

Thanks,
Ray

06 ST1300 / 38000 Miles Young
 
I recently had to deal with code 25/26 on my 05. It turned out NOT to be the ECU so don't assume it is until you've eliminated everything else. Mine turned out to be a bad knock sensor connector - much cheaper and more available than an ECU. Here's a link to my thread about what to check and what I found. I agree with Mellow - worry less, ride more.
 
rdmnt2002 said:
Hi All,

Thankfully, I am not a victim of the Code 25/26 issue yet. But, right now I could get 4 to 5K dollars for my ST. If I get the ECU issue, obviously, the value plummets.

My question is, are any of you living with the issue and simply continuing to operate the bike. If so, what has the impact to the bikes behavior been. I have seen some comments that you really can’t tell there is a problem to the bike has no power and gets horrible gas mileage.

If your willing, please share specific details about your experience.

I love my ST and I just want to better understand if I can just live with the issue if it happens.

Thanks,
Ray

06 ST1300 / 38000 Miles Young
Click to expand...
I leave mine in diagnostic mode, that seems to make it run mostly normal.
 
MattSTlouis said:
I leave mine in diagnostic mode, that seems to make it run mostly normal.
Click to expand...
It runs mostly normal without being in diagnostic mode. The biggest thing I noticed was a decrease of about 2 - 3 mpg. When the light first came on, it was the first day of last year's Blueridge Gathering. I was able to ride the entire event without issue. The light would go off every time I shut the bike off and not come back on until I was doing some spirited riding (over 4k rpm). The important thing to know is you won't get stuck due to the FI light coming on with code 25/26.
 
RobbieAG said:
It runs mostly normal without being in diagnostic mode. The biggest thing I noticed was a decrease of about 2 - 3 mpg. When the light first came on, it was the first day of last year's Blueridge Gathering. I was able to ride the entire event without issue. The light would go off every time I shut the bike off and not come back on until I was doing some spirited riding (over 4k rpm). The important thing to know is you won't get stuck due to the FI light coming on with code 25/26.
Click to expand...
I can't feel the the loss of power when it gets set at 4200 without it. Spirited for me is the 6000+ RPM range. I usually hit 4200 leaving the road I live on.
 
MattSTlouis said:
I can't feel the the loss of power when it gets set at 4200 without it. Spirited for me is the 6000+ RPM range. I usually hit 4200 leaving the road I live on.
Click to expand...
I didn't notice a loss of power at that rpm either even without being in diagnosis mode; some others on here have reported that.
 
Did it ever cross your mind, that it may not be a good idea to ride the bike while your jumping the data port?
Those instructions were for the bike sitting on a table lift for diagnostic work, not riding it.
You may be harming your bike.
Just saying.
 
aniwack said:
The most common "fix" is covering the light with electrical tape. I'm monitoring a half dozen on the east coast with E26 and so far there hasn't been any noticeable performance changes.
Click to expand...
Ah...YodaLarry approve would not...
 
Living with it for now, and have been for awhile, but this may be a contributing factor:
PXL_20240113_193151899.jpg

(right side)
I had the bolts and heat 'shield' off but couldn't figure out how to get the connector off to check signal continuity or replace the sensor, so put it all back together until another time.

For now, will stay below 4k RPM to keep the light at bay and ride on until I can get a better idea on replacing the wire/connector.

YMMV
 
Hi All,

Thanks for all your comments so far…..

Specific question….once you clear the code, can your go above 4000 rpm quickly to accelerate through the gears without triggering it? I had read that you have to hold it above 4000 rpm for a few seconds to trigger it…..is that true?

Thanks,
Ray
 
Mellow said:
So, you don't really know.
Click to expand...

which is why I say you “may” be harming your bike.
If your car’s idiot light, or check engine light is blinking, and you plugged in a code reader to see what the fault was, and the code reader caused the light to go off while you were reading it, does that mean you should leave it attached hanging under your steering wheel and drive around now?
 
Gus1300 said:
Living with it for now, and have been for awhile, but this may be a contributing factor:
PXL_20240113_193151899.jpg

(right side)
I had the bolts and heat 'shield' off but couldn't figure out how to get the connector off to check signal continuity or replace the sensor, so put it all back together until another time.

For now, will stay below 4k RPM to keep the light at bay and ride on until I can get a better idea on replacing the wire/connector.

YMMV
Click to expand...
You’d probably find if you replaced your lower sub wire harness, and repaired that damage that your ecu was operating normally, as I have fixed a few bikes that had the codes by replacing this sub harness.
 
aniwack said:
The most common "fix" is covering the light with electrical tape. I'm monitoring a half dozen on the east coast with E26 and so far there hasn't been any noticeable performance changes.
Click to expand...
That’s because most of your customers don’t have a clue how their bikes are running till they blow up their engine or damage stuff :rofl1:
 
rdmnt2002 said:
Hi All,

Thanks for all your comments so far…..

Specific question….once you clear the code, can your go above 4000 rpm quickly to accelerate through the gears without triggering it? I had read that you have to hold it above 4000 rpm for a few seconds to trigger it…..is that true?

Thanks,
Ray
Click to expand...

Ray,

It was my experience that anytime the revs went above 4,200 RPM for a few seconds, either while riding or in my garage, it would trigger the ECM code 25. To me, there was a noticeable reduction in power when it happened for the first time. In my garage, once the fault was triggered the rpms would drop 500 - 750 rpm even if the throttle was held steady.

I checked wiring continuity and had no circuit faults. Then I swapped the left and right sensors and it still threw ECM code 25. After checking the battery/alternator voltage and all the grounds, and the problem recurred, I knew then it was the ECM itself. Once I replaced the ECM, I no longer experience the fault.

I elected to go the replacement route because of the reports provided by Larry aka @Igofar . Obviously, others have not. Presently, no one is quite sure why the error code 25/26 occurs. Perhaps one day we'll know and someone will develop a "fix." New ECM's are extremely rare to non-existent, so there's not much you can do about if your ECM goes bad.

I felt fortunate when I found a new ECM through Webike Japan. It cost me around $1,200, but it was cheaper than buying another bike.

Chris
 
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