Chirping while engine braking.

Can you make it chirp while on the center stand? If so, I would suggest you make it chirp and go over the engine w/ a stethoscope. This would probably take two people since it only makes the noise when the engine is winding down.

You won't be able to tell by running it in gear on the center stand because there will be no load on the shaft drive and it will make all kinds of clanking sounds, and If the u-joint is on its way out and is loose or sloppy, running it free like that may only cause more damage to the u-joint.
 
You won't be able to tell by running it in gear on the center stand because there will be no load on the shaft drive and it will make all kinds of clanking sounds, and If the u-joint is on its way out and is loose or sloppy, running it free like that may only cause more damage to the u-joint.
How about lightly dragging the brake?
 
How about lightly dragging the brake?
Might work in theory, but I would wonder if applying the brakes would trap/keep pressure on the u-joint, not allowing it to float/roam around under normal free running and vibration.
I would start with rolling the wheel back and forth while in gear and seeing how much free play you have. If you can move the wheel too far, that would indicate that the u-joint might be starting to spread/wear and could indicate the issue.
Its hard to tell without having eyes/hands on it to inspect it....as you already know :thumb:
 
This started in between oil changes, not right after. Well as best as I can tell, it was a rare chance that I rode with no ear plugs. 500 miles since And there is no change. I might ride 15 miles experimenting with speeding up to slow down the whole way and nothing, I might hear it over several slow downs in a row.
On the center stand in gear the wheel moves about 3-1/2 finger widths. I just took the bike down the road to test it and didn’t think to grab a ruler.
Since it only does this under slight engine braking load it is possible to be using a brake lightly enough to still have a slight engine braking load and get the chirp. This can not be produced consistently, the only constant is slight engine braking.
I put the bike in gear running up to 50mph in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Chop the throttle, ease off the throttle, somewhere in there is a degree of the engine slowing down the momentum of the wheel. No chirp. But then maybe if I did that a hundred times I might catch it. But I like the idea of trying that because it add more data.
Spinning the wheel in neutral it is smooth and there are no noises, no tight spots. Moving the wheel back and forth a 1/4” makes a sound in the final drive. One tick forward, one tick back. Just what I would normally expect as the gears or splines or damper pins make contact after reversing the rotation of the wheel. I held the rear caliper steady for that.
Within two weeks I am doing a tire change, I’ll turn the drive splines directly to get a feel without the wheel.
Meanwhile I have some bird seed and plan to ride.
 
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Take ten minutes and adjust your counter balance adjusters.
Check out this thread (ST1300 "clatter" under load) start reading at post #40.
Your adjusters may be a little on the loose side, and this is what you may be hearing.
 
Take ten minutes and adjust your counter balance adjusters.
Check out this thread (ST1300 "clatter" under load) start reading at post #40.
Your adjusters may be a little on the loose side, and this is what you may be hearing.

The teaser is that I did the adjustments and the bike seemed maybe a little smoother at 55 mph but the gas mileage went down and the signature timing chain sound was louder than before.

What led to this?

Igofar calls with tips on the counter balancer adjustments. I got to say if this guy calls have a notepad out, listen and take notes.
I am greatful for his post and call. It had crossed my mind that maybe, it could possibly be that but it might be ten other things and being busy with all the daily stuff, I didn’t pursue that.
My biggest take away tip from Larry about doing the adjustment, besides how easy it is, is to soak the adjustment clamps real well with penetrating oil first. No point rushing and having the screwdriver slip on the shaft. Also working the oil all the way around the shaft and getting it to turn back and forth easily makes it easy to tell when you meet resistance at the end of the travel vs resistance from dirt and corrosion.

Ok, back to worse fuel consumption, as I am assessing how could this be?, I glance at the tach, based on this new information I find a higher gear. The mileage comes back up. Now this bike seemed fine and very smooth when I bought it. Then it felt even smoother after synching for this season.
Now I am really impressed that it could be any smoother.
Thanks to Larry for zeroing right in on the problem, the bike is incredibly smooth and it’s one less thing to be concerned about.

“Of course there is a price to pay”
Yes godfather,
“One day someone will need help, give help”
Yes godfather
 
But did the chirping go away :rofl1:
Glad you got your bike sorted out. Enjoyed our talks on the white courtesy phone.
Ride safe, Ride often, Ride far.
Enjoy your bike my friend.
Larry
 
But did the chirping go away :rofl1:
Glad you got your bike sorted out. Enjoyed our talks on the white courtesy phone.
Ride safe, Ride often, Ride far.
Enjoy your bike my friend.
Larry
How did I leave that out?
Yes, the birds left and I gave the bird seed to other birds although a couple squirrels got some. :)
 
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