New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

ST Gui said:
Installed my today (yesterday actually as I look at the clock). I should have taken a pic when just the first one was in. It made the 55/60W H4 look like a kerosene lamp. I don't ride much at night but I'll check the aim though it looks good out of the box.

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Look good. Any idea on the bulb to replace the 2 small running lights to LED?
 
cdnemsguy said:
Look good. Any idea on the bulb to replace the 2 small running lights to LED?
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It's a #194. I just did all LEDs up front. Headlight, running, and clear signals with switchback the other day. I bought a different style bulb for the running light. It has a projector lens. Evitek for headlights.

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I like those. Can you provide a link to the vendor?

I bought these from Amazon and used the remainder of the bag in my RV. One of the bike bulbs is already out, but I don't want to pull the fairing lowers to troubleshoot it. Two of the bulbs in the RV are flickering in a most annoying way and I've played with the connections there without managing to stop the flickering for more than a couple of minutes. It's only in one of the three fixtures I installed the bulbs in and seems to be related to the fixture, not the bulbs. There was no issue with the old incandescent bulbs. Sigh...
 
cdnemsguy said:
Any idea on the bulb to replace the 2 small running lights to LED?
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Yes those are #194s. I swapped the clear position lights for yellow incandescent 194s. They look more yellow to the eye than the camera and compare to amber bulbs.

If I do another lighting mod I'm considering I'll use the white LEDs that spidey linked to.
JayBear said:
I just did all LEDs up front.
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Those pics are AWESOME! I wish I had seen the pic of the position light socket. It would have helped me understand how to remove it. And while talking to my buddies I managed to pop the clear bulb out into the lens pocket an instant after freeing the socket from the fairing. It then fell out of that pocket and down into the headlight area. That actually made it easier to retrieve.

Besides the increased utility of better light where it should be I just really like the look of the whiter light in the headlights and OEM running lights. I wish the color temp were a bit lower to remove the slight bluish cast.
 
MajorTom said:
I like those. Can you provide a link to the vendor?

I bought these from Amazon and used the remainder of the bag in my RV. One of the bike bulbs is already out, but I don't want to pull the fairing lowers to troubleshoot it. Two of the bulbs in the RV are flickering in a most annoying way and I've played with the connections there without managing to stop the flickering for more than a couple of minutes. It's only in one of the three fixtures I installed the bulbs in and seems to be related to the fixture, not the bulbs. There was no issue with the old incandescent bulbs. Sigh...
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I got them from DDM Tunning but they ship from China so it took 2 weeks to receive :mad: They do have local shops in Huntington Beach, CA but with a baby at home I didn't have time to go there.


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ST Gui said:
Those pics are AWESOME! I wish I had seen the pic of the position light socket. It would have helped me understand how to remove it.
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Thanks. I had similar issues so I made it a point to document the process by taking tons of photos along the way! I plan to make a step by step tutorial (with photos) to help others in the future. I will post in a new thread.

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Well it is dark and tried them out. Fantastic!!! with one little exception. The right hand bulb seems to be pointed too far left and therefore the right side of the road edge and ditch are dark. I will read about any adjustments I can do to fix this problem. Very bright lights though!
 
cdnemsguy said:
Well it is dark and tried them out. Fantastic!!! with one little exception. The right hand bulb seems to be pointed too far left and therefore the right side of the road edge and ditch are dark. I will read about any adjustments I can do to fix this problem. Very bright lights though!
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If you haven't tried it before you start moving reflector aim you might point the bike up against a wall to make sure the RH beam is not rotated from horizontal. Think of the 'hot spot' of the beam as a fuzzy rectangle rather than a circle. If the beam pattern is tilted too far clockwise it puts a lot of light down close to the bike rather than up and out to illuminate the road edge. The bulb is easily rotated in the reflector by hand with the idea to line up both light patterns to horizontal. At night against a wall about 50 feet away the pattern is very visible. These bulbs aren't as precise in pattern as OEM halogen 9003s and benefit from some finessing. I had to fine tune the patterns with both bikes I fitted with G6s, the twin bulb 1300 and single bulb NC700X.
 
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dduelin said:
RH beam is not rotated from horizontal.
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Yes i tried that last night just before it started to rain, but will give that another shot. I installed the RH bulb first and while rotating it in ti lock, felt strange and is able to rotate will little force. I am unsure if I smoothed off the dimples on the light base or ? It didnt look like it but obviously I did. Anyways I will mess with it in the shop and then again tonight.
 
You may find the pattern of the RH bulb is just plain crappy but it doesn't hurt to try while looking directly at the pattern against a background. The reflector with an OEM 9003 was just fine before so I'd be asking why the need to alter horizontal as well as vertical aim to get these things right. The reason behind H4/9003 specification is that every H4/9003 bulb supposedly is plug and play in the appropriate reflector.

The silicone rubber nibs help but unlike metal ones they do not lock the bulb in place but will give enough friction that once in place they will not move.
 
dduelin said:
The reason behind H4/9003 specification is that every H4/9003 bulb supposedly is plug and play in the appropriate reflector.
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I think the issue comes down to quality control of the fabrication and mass production of a bulb. I think spidey may have mentioned slightly tweaking the final product though I don't recall if it was just rotating the bulb.

Another manufacturer's bulb needed a change in mounting angle (accomplished by placing a bare length of 12ga wire underneath the bottom two tabs. I need to rotate my right G6 bulb a little more ACW. The 'elevation' seems ok but I haven't had a chance to critically check that.
 
Check the mounting, make sure the plate is fully seated. The spring clip that holds it in place may be pushing the fan off center through the rubber boot. look at both bulbs (with the lights off) through the front of the bike to make sure they are Centered and Square in their mounts. look at the shields and they should be the same on both sides.
Once the lights are "locked" into place you will have to do a little twisting to get the beams level.

I like the outer edges of the shields to be level with the middle of lower squares of the led. If you bend the shields up you will make the pattern more level. if you bend them down it will create more of a V beam - low in the center and higher on the sides. If the left side shield is too high then it will block the light on the right side.

If there is a dark spot in the middle then the two leds are not converging. The fix for this is to lower the emitters by down tilting the bulb with a thin wire across the bottom two slots. For the ST1300 a bare piece of 18 ga wire will do the trick. Do not add spacers it will defeat the effect of the shields and screw up your high beam. Hope this helps....
 
Welp, you guys convinced to do this mod to my STeed.. My order has shipped.. Probably going to take my bike full LED as well.

How do you gain access to the rear turn signal bulbs on the ST1300?
 
bstran said:
How do you gain access to the rear turn signal bulbs on the ST1300?
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Remove the seat. Look at the location of the turn signal lens and then look inside the rear cowl area behind the lens. You can see the sockets. Twist ACW and pull. IIRC these are a little tough to turn but not as bad as the taillights. Some silicone grease for the O-rings might be a good idea.


Oops. Didn't see spidey's post.
 
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