Bestem 929 Top Box install
Ok. So to add on to this thread, I put on my Bestem 929 today.
Why the 929?
I had this topbox on my Vstrom that I traded in and I liked it, ESPECIALLY for the price. Also, I use the topbox every day to commute, and I leave it on all the time. So when I put it on and secure it, while I WILL have a weatherproof connector to disconnect the power to it, and it will be secured with a bolt and locknut, I don't intend to have to take it off much, if at all.
How I use the luggage
Gymclothes go in the topbox, lunch goes in the sidecase, and the other sidecase is reserved for raingear, tools, and other miscellaneous that I have at all times. Also, I will be hooking up the LED brake light VIA positaps, and have an SAE connector that is always live in there. I created SAE to Cigarette Socket adaptors (two of them), and it will have a 5 amp fuse. This way I buy a cheap Griffin USB cigarette plug and can charge mine and my wife's cellphone. Because it's always live, I can charge the phones, secured in there, with the bike off. So if it's really low and we decided to pull over for lunch or dinner, or even if we have a friend in the riding group that wants/needs to charge an ipod while we're eating or walking around so it can have juice for the ride back.
My SLIGHT variation on the install
It's very slight to what everyone has posted. Everyone has realized that two of the holes in the plastic tailpiece line up very well. But for some reason most people are lining up the other two holes on the metal part, and drilling through the plastic to create a mounting point. This results on using the stock bolts on the most forward part, intermediate bolts to connect the metal plate to the plast, and then the bestem bolts on the rearmost two (where they line up stock).
I decided to line up the two bolts that everyone lines up, place the plastic piece on it, and then drill into the
metal bestem base and create two new holes THERE. What that does is allows you to use the four supplied bestem bolts and save the stock bolts that held down the plastic. It doesn't modify the plastic piece at all so if you ever wanted to go to stock, you can very easily. Just remove the bestem and put back the old bolts. And,
most importantly to me, this allows the four bolts connecting the bestem plate to the bike, to ALL be connected to a load bearing part of the bike. The other way, two bolts are secured only to flimsy plastic. The way I chose, all four are connected to the grab rails and luggage rack so should be more secure.
Pics with explanations
1) This is the stock plastic tailpiece. I will use these four holes and NOT drill into it (although you'll see later that my mis-measurement ended up nicking the very end of it....just measure a little better than I did!)
2) Laid upside down on top of the bestem plate and metal supports. In the picture, the TOP TWO holes line up with two holes already drilled in the bestem plate. The bottom two holes, I drilled the METAL BESTEM support. Be VERY CAREFUL drilling and making sure everything is centered. I was a little off and now my bestem top case is about 1/4 inch off from being perfectly centered on the bike. A little frustrating, but hey, I don't have a garage or shop. This was done on my little screened in deck on my apartment with a 2x10 as a "workbench" on the floor!
3) After removing the plastic piece, you can better see where the new holes were. Because they're on a different part of the metal plate, the height of the support bars is different. So I threw some big 'ol washers I had on them to make the plastic tailpiece it even and level.
4) Here's a picture of the modified bestem plate. The two lowest holes in the picture (bottom of picture) are the ones I drilled that NOW match up with the stock plastic tailpiece. The top center-ish hole is the one I will use to further secure the topbox to the plate (the "Just In Case This Tries To Vibrate Off" bolt). That one I measured just a HAIR wrong, and you'll see the results in the last two pictures.
5) Rightside up, plastic piece underneath, with the new holes and the four bolts that will be used to secure everything to the bike's luggage supports/grab rails.
6) Picture of the inside of the box, that centered bolt holding it down. It's a 7/16" by 1" bolt with a nylon lockwasher. I chose to have the washer on the inside, but only because I didn't put it close enough to the latching mechanism. You can see the space there. Unfortunately, if I put the washer underneath, it would hit the painted part of the tail grab rail/luggage rack. So I had to reverse it. Silly mistake, and it'll stay with me for the life of the topbox. But not a big deal.
7) Picture of the bottom, with the bolt. You can see the plastic piece is worn a little bit. That's because I should have drilled closer to the latching mechanism to fully clear everything. But life goes on. Also, I intend to JBWELD the bolt to the bottom of the bestem rack. So I won't risk losing it if I ever have to take the nylon locknut off to take the box off.
I've used this topbox in the past and used it DAILY. It does the job and while it's a budget box, I think it's worth more than the money you pay for it. I'll update this thread with how I put power in there and hooked up the brake light LED. I also know that the clips that hold the wire WILL break off with frequent use so I'll be using strong duct tape to tape the wires to the inside.
Hope this shows others that you can use the luggage rack bolt holes for all mounting points and I think it'll be more solid and less risk of being overstressed with weight being put in it.
Alexi