Wiring a trailer hitch connector

Rodd

Rodd

AuSTralian
Joined
Jun 9, 2011
Messages
17
Location
Maryborough, QLD, Australia
Bike
1998 ST1100
I'm not sure if this has been discussed before but:

I am in the process of fitting a trailer hitch to my ST1100. I don't like cutting into original wiring looms if I can avoid it. I thought that one way of doing this is to buy a connector set (plug and socket) that is the same as the ones Honda used to connect the wiring loom to the tail-light. You could then wire the new plug and socket into the trailer loom and simply plug (patch) it between the bikes tail-light plug and socket!
Hope that makes sense!

If ever you want to remove the trailer hitch and wiring you simply unplug the trailer loom from the bike and plug the original plug into the tail-light socket.

If you have an old loom from a wrecked bike there is no reason why you couldn't cut the tail-light connectors (keeping some of the old wiring as well) it and solder them into your trailer loom.

Just an idea.. maybe someone else has already mentioned it.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/090_Connectors/6p090-sp-a.jpg
 
Just see the sticky in this forum for trailer wiring. There is a wire diagram to use either a purchased trailer isolation module (and where to get it) or to make your own. I made my own. Also see the thread on DenRay Hitch on ST1100. I posted about installing the home made isolation module in the tail. I did mod the original factory plug to the tail light but only to add a pig tail with a connector on it since I didn't have the factory connectors. That way I can simply unplug my trailer relay set to restore the bike to factory spec. DO NOT get power for your trailer lights from the factory wires. This will expose the factory electrical systems to any problems that may happen with the trailer wiring. If your trailer has regular lighting then all lights will be dimmed due to power drain. Factory wires are designed to only handle what the factory puts on. IF your trailer has LED lighting the power drain will not be an issue but there are many other problems that can happen. My experience here: I had that happen on my old GW before I rewired it the right way. I just went with what the PO put in and blew the tail main relay on the bike. Couldn't start it after I turned it off and didn't have any lights or instruments while it was still running. Now I have an isolated power panel for anything electrical I add and power all added stuff from that panel. Factory wires only serve to provide a signal/trigger to the relay.

BTW- some photos of the connector in the tail and other details for my trailer hook up are in My Gallery under Add-Ons (link at left). I made the trailer harness cable to be removable at the relay box so when I don't tow the trailer I can remove it and not have a cable hanging out the back that I need to tie up. Keeps the contacts cleaner that way too.
 
If you are lucky enough to find a hitch made by Uni-Go for the 1100 you will be very happy with the rigidity. They are not easy to come by and the person who has taken over distribution for the U.S. is unresponsive from what I have read.
 
Rodd said:
If ever you want to remove the trailer hitch and wiring you simply unplug the trailer loom from the bike and plug the original plug into the tail-light socket.
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. I have never seen how the wiring connects to the taillight assembly on a ST 1100, but on the 1300 there are 3 connectors. One for the brake/tail, and two for the turn signals. You would need a male and a female for the three connectors, so it could get a little expensive I guess. Plus the wire feeding the taillights are quite thin. You would not want to run too much power through them by adding more load. rjs987's suggestion is the best setup in my opinion.
 
I'm cheap. I have more time than money. And I really don't have that much time either, but more of it than money. Some of my connectors are from other bike add-ons I didn't use, and some are those white 4 pin power connectors from inside old computers (that used to power the hard disks and CD ROM drives in older machines), and some (when I ran out of the others) are the white multi pin connectors from Radio Shack. I've used an assortment of 2, 6, and 9 pin connectors from there. What I like about the RS connectors is they can be mounted in square holes cut in the hobby boxes (also from RS) that I put the relays in. I also used those connectors for my fused power panel in the left glove box so I can just unplug and remove that fairing plastic without a fuss.
 
Thanks for bringing this to my attention, RJS. The 'computer connector' tip is a good one also. I have plenty of PC bits laying around.

I bought a trailer project (had been put on it's side) and was given a new trailer hitch, wiring, plug, tow-ball, etc (all still sealed in their packets). I've removed the old tail-lights from the trailer and will be fitting LED tail-lights.
It included the (very basic) instructions on wiring the trailer loom to the bike. There is an extra wire in the trailer loom (blue) that can be used to provide power to the trailer. I'll wire this directly to battery +12v with an appropriate fuse.

At my place of employment we use special relays that have individual holders that all clip side-by-side on a DIN rail. These individual relays are only 5 or 6 mm wide. The ones we use are either 24v or 240v powered, but 12v versions should be available. These are very reliable because they are used with PLCs to switch pneumatic solenoids, lights, etc. They also have their own little LED to show when each relay is 'on'. They are SPDT so have a n.c. and n.o. contacts. These relays would be ideal to use on motorbikes due to their reliability, ease of replacement, and minimal mounting space, although cost and availability may be an issue.

The connectors are $3 - $4 each, so not a great cost especially compared to the cost of a new hitch (I looked up the cost of my hitch kit if bought new, and it was around $460!!).
 
One thing to note is that the ST is natively a 5 wire system for trailer plugs. In other words, the turn signals are separate from the brake lights. That blue wire is usually an extra for a backup light on an otherwise 4 wire trailer hookup, but is also the brake light if it's a 5 wire system. My camper trailer has separate turn signal lights (amber) and brake lights (red), so I just stayed with the 5 wire system. My cage is a Toyota that also has separate turn and brake lights same as the ST so I can stay with a 5 wire system all the way around. Most 5 wire trailer looms or connectors are as follows:
Ground=white
Tail=brown
Left=yellow
Right=green
Brake=blue

Most 4 wire systems are the same except the blue wire is usually missing and both turn signal wires are also the brake for that side (left or right).

I realized that I didn't have a photo of the pigtail I added to the factory tail light plug (until tonight). Here is that photo. The 3 wires correspond to left turn and right turn (brown and orange), and brake (red). These were the colors that were already on the 3 pin connector I used from my stash of left over parts. I don't remember which color was for left or right turn and it really doesn't matter as long as the wire is consistent all the way through. Since the tail lights are always on when the bike is on I don't need a relay for that. My fused power panel that provides the power is only on when the bike is on so the wire for the tail lights is just a continuation of the wire that provides power.

attachment.php
 
Listen to Bob, even I was able to make it work and I am an idiot when it comes to wiring.
 
I'm an electrician, have worked as an electrical drafter, a mechanical drafter and have also owner my own computer business. Please don't think that this means that I don't make mistakes, because I often do.

The first post was to suggest that you don't need to cut into the loom. This is regardless of whether you use relays or if you don't (and use LED lights on the trailer like I am doing).

Please disregard my reference to the blue wire because I was referring to the blue wire in the trailer loom (this is used to supply +12v to the trailer).

The colour of the 'bike' wires on my 1998 ST1100 are:
blue - right blinker
Brown - Tail
Green - Earth
Blue - + on battery
Green yellow - brake
Orange - left blinker

I was going to splice into the bike loom and have an aftermarket connector going to the trailer loom. I don't really like cutting into my bike/cars original loom and if I can avoid it I will.
The previous owner of my ST (it was one owner) spliced into the bikes loom near the steering stem for some reason. He musty have removed whatever he had connected there and then taped up the old joints. When I went to relocate the cables while I was installing my handlebar raisers I shorted out an old bare connection strip to the master cylinder. Luckily no permanent damage was done. I re-taped up the old connection, but consider electrical tape a temporary repair. I wasn't impressed. The advantage of working on the (splicing into) tail-light connector is that the pins CAN be removed from the plug and then heat shrink tubing can be used rather than electrical tape. Of course this isn't possible to do with a connection at an inner section of the loom (without cutting the wire anyway). I do have access to self-binding tape, but nothing is as good as the original wire in an area that undergoes movement. I had no problem finding a supplier of the Honda style connectors in the U.S. (includes male and female), but no success so far here in Australia (so far).
In the U.S. one supplier had them for $3.95 (?) plus $115 delivery, but if I bought 5 of them I could have them delivered for $50 total. There's no hurry.. I'll keep looking.

The trailer loom is as RJS posted above.
 
Try selecting just one and going to checkout! LOL (delivery to Oz).
He doesn't want to sell just one. If you order 5 then you can get the lot for $50 (delivered).
Tried to get them locally today. Local Honda motorbike seller didn't have them and sent me to a local auto-electrician (saying that he would have boxes of 'em).
The Local auto-electrician then said that he doesn't have them and said to try Honda. Someone will have them locally.. just got to find out who.
 
I am also trained and experienced in electronics and power/mechanical systems, US Navy mainframe computer operation and maintenance, micro-miniature computer circuit repair (actually repairing memory control circuits and registers on the bit level inside the processor (yes, that used to be possible)), hydraulic/pneudraulic (gas) control systems, synchro/servo systems in aircraft simulators (the kind with full motion and visual). That was just the first 5 years in the industry. Also later doing aircraft radar, heads-up, and laser targeting equipment service. All of this including manufacturing any needed power or signal/communication cabling to mil-spec or industry networking cabling in the Air Nat. Guard while also working a civilian job servicing computer equipment (I was the entire PC department in one job) and actually doing *repair* of computer circuit boards (not really done much any more due to miniaturisation and cost). Most people I work with now in computer support have no idea how the "inners" of a computer really works. Gets frustrating sometimes. They know *what* a part does but not *how* it does it. I do. I've been in this business since 1977 and played in it as a hobby before that.

My first bike wiring project I also had to remove the previous owners botched wire job where most connections were using crimp/clamp on connections to factory wires and some were no more than wire ends twisted together and taped (that was for the driving lights)!!! I had to do a repair job on all of that when it blew out a main relay before I had a chance to change it. Fortunately I was able to pull out a pin or two in most nearby connectors to do the patch properly.

Not intending to mandate any particular color code here. The trailer connectors I bought just happened to have the function for each wire stamped in the connector and also printed on the wires at interval all the way out to the ends so I just stayed with that. I found out while re-wiring my Gold Wing that there is really no standard color code other than what the manufacturer of the connector wants to use. So any color works for any light as long as you know what wire is going where.
I would have preferred to use factory connectors to make a T-connection as you are thinking but I am cheap (and didn't find a good source for the connectors in the US) and didn't mind adding one connector to the tail light plug since I was able to pull the pins (as you mentioned). I would definitely find another way if I had to grab a signal from the middle of the loom somewhere. I really don't like cutting into any factory wire if there is any other way at all, but I don't mind adding to a connector if I can do it properly. Since I haven't found a good source for the connectors that I can afford ($$$) I use the Radio Shack connectors and add dielectric grease to the back side and cover each wire with heat shrink.

I think would have to make an exception to do such a repair as you mention is needed in the loom at the steering stem. I think I would have to reluctantly cut those wires and do a proper wire-splice with heat shrink and then wrap that entire loom in another sheath running up the stem where it would rub. I would think that area would just be trouble again if left with just the tape on it.
 
Try www.vintageconnections.com. I have loads of these connectors in London (collected from many sources over the years), but needed a set in California, so after pricing out buying individual connectors and terminals from all of the sources I could find, I decided to go ahead and buy Del's "Professional Kit CK-5" (see photo below). Looks like about USD 56 shipped to Oz. (About $35 more with the crimper, but that's not strictly necessary if you're handy with wiring and soldering...)

CK5_New042410s.jpg


Ciao,
 
RJS. I have only stated that it's not necessary to splice into the bikes loom to install a trailer socket (assuming that you can get the original style connectors and you are prepared to pay the cost/time to get them). Please be aware that my original post wasn't in reference to the sticky on trailer wiring.
My hitch has already been fitted and the wiring done (except for the fitting of the connectors at the bike loom end). I have the trailer and it is being rebuilt and will have LED lighting, so I have time to order the connectors.
In my situation it is not necessary to do the install using relays or isolators, but that's not a criticism as others may chose to do it that way.
 
Rodd - Not to worry. Didn't take it that way. Discourse is all with the goal of clarification. I tend to get wordy and ramble on doing that.
 
Rod,
Which plug do you want, (ie how many pin), and do you want the matching pair I may have some in my collection. If you PM your address and I have what you need I will mail it over
 
I've attached a photo of the socket side of the connector.
Thanks for the offer. PM sent.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1702s.jpg
    DSCF1702s.jpg
    78.1 KB · Views: 17
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom