Audiovox Cruise CCS100 Still Doesn't Work

Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
27
Location
West Virginia
Bike
09 BMW K1200LT
First the facts. Audiovox CCS-100 use to work, then would work intermittantly, now doesn't work at all. It was always smooth but sometimes would either just stop working or would take awhile playing with the switch before it would work. Now for the troubleshooting I've done. I have a spare CCS-100 to play with. Troubleshoot switch and works fine. Also replaced switch to verify and it's not the switch. Double checked all the wiring and connections and all appear to work fine. I have a Hondaline Top Box installed with LED spoiler and had a relay installed. I checked the relay and it appears to work fine. I took the relay out just to test and no difference. I took the servo apart and replaced the entire bottom part (control circuit board and vacuum) but still nothing. The top part of the servo that contains the linkage is clean, not split or broken, and opens and closes easily when I twist the throttle handle. I inserted a video scope into the location of the throttle linkage and it appears to all be intack. With the bike on it's center stand, I put it in gear, got up to above 50 and above 3000 rpm and engaged the cruise. I could see the linkage just barely move and the rpm drop a bit before coming back up to normal. But no cruise. It "appears" the vacuum isn't strong enough to pull the chain or the linkage and hold it. I checked the vacuum check valve and it works fine. I checked the hoses (I have a canister also) and all the hoses hold vacuum from the check valve to the servo. The bike runs fine with no rough idling or anything abnormal. It's "possible", although unlikely, my test servo and/or switch are bad but the odds are against that. I supose the Map Sensor could be causing the problem but really want to find something else before taking the tank and top of the engine apart...again. Thanks...
 
From your description, it sounds like a vacuum hose is loose. Your bike should surge at idle if it is.

Here are some other things to consider: Is the servo's LED lit when you turn it on; How about the blue wire to your left coil, is that OK; If you use the Quartet harness, is its fuse good; If you don't, how is the fuse for that wire? Finally, is the throttle cable from your servo binding?

Marshal
 
There is a 4-way (I think) connector from the switch to the harness going to the servo. I had one of the pins push out and wouldn't make a connection although I thought the connections were fine. Gray ground wire is important. If the LED is not lit with the various button pushes per their directions, then it's electrical. If not electrical, using a vacuum gauge, I would check vacuum at the servo end with engine running to ensure you're getting enough. A vacuum pump could also be used to activate the servo to see there's no hole in the servo diaphram.
 
Have you tried it on the road? Even a properly working CCS-100 won't engage with no load on the rear wheel.
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UGHHHHHH!!!!! OK. I double-checked all the wiring today. I replaced the lower half of the servo cruise with a brand new one, replaced the switch, verified all connections. Verified voltages. LED on servo is on. Blue wire is good. Everything is as expected. The only item left to check is the vacuum. I'm getting a tester on Tuesday to check that. The bike runs fine which is leading me away from a vacuum issue. I checked the binding of the cable and it moves freely. I took it for a test run and still nada. I'm stumped. Help me Obi-Wan!
 
Did you leave the servo's DIP switches the same with the new can as with the old? Is it possible that one DIP switch was moved while you checked something in the servo before changing cans?

Shooting in the dark here.

Marshal
UGHHHHHH!!!!! OK. I double-checked all the wiring today. I replaced the lower half of the servo cruise with a brand new one, replaced the switch, verified all connections. Verified voltages. LED on servo is on. Blue wire is good. Everything is as expected. The only item left to check is the vacuum. I'm getting a tester on Tuesday to check that. The bike runs fine which is leading me away from a vacuum issue. I checked the binding of the cable and it moves freely. I took it for a test run and still nada. I'm stumped. Help me Obi-Wan!
 
it sounds like that one thing you haven't checked is the brake light input to the servo. diconnect it and tape off both ends, then test it on the road. one question i find helps when trouble shooting is " what work has recently been done to the bike?"
 
UGHHHHHH!!!!! OK. I double-checked all the wiring today. I replaced the lower half of the servo cruise with a brand new one, replaced the switch, verified all connections. Verified voltages. LED on servo is on. Blue wire is good. Everything is as expected. The only item left to check is the vacuum. I'm getting a tester on Tuesday to check that. The bike runs fine which is leading me away from a vacuum issue. I checked the binding of the cable and it moves freely. I took it for a test run and still nada. I'm stumped. Help me Obi-Wan!


Replace the check valve anyway. It is cheap and easy. If the check valve leaks the servo won't get the proper vacuum but the bike will most likly run OK. Then let me know if that fixes it as mine is doing the same thing. Next time I have to pull the air box I will have a new check valve to replace with.
 
GETTING CLOSER... I had all the plastic off and was checking eveything. I did a vacuum check (this was an excuse to get a new toy) and vacuum was solid. Started up and vacuum was steady with no sign of leakage - FUDGE. I have video scope (a nice toy from Harbor Freight Tools) that I inserted underneath the fuel take so I can see all the linkage and check for binding. "At first" everything look perfect - another dead end. Twisting the throttle everything looked as it should. However, with the bike on the center stand, 3,500 rpm, I engaged the cruise, the cruise cable tightened, and then I noticed it hit the flexible rubber air intake duct which it wasn't doing when just turning the throttle without engaging the cruise. Hmmmm. I took a long screwdriver, held the duct away from the cable, retried, and it appears the cruise worked, RPM shot up, automatically disengaged. This is what I expected to see from when I originally installed it. I haven't been able to devise a way to get the rubber duct out of the way without taking the tank and everything else off yet. I've had to put the plastic back on so I could ride, but next chance I get, it's coming off. The binding on engaging was extremely slight so it may not be the answer, but I'm hoping. If this works when I come up with a way to move the duct out of the way, I may have some extra cruise control parts left over (one complete kit plus 1 extra servo) :biker:
 
After you get the rubber air duct off, you may want to trim away the ribs underneath. The cable could be hanging on them, as it was on my installation.
Check out the pic below...
Jefro.
 

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I didn't have to trim anything on mine, and the cable doesn't drag on anything.

Is it possible that the vent hose just isn't snapped into the clamp like it should be?

--Mark
 
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