ST1300 Valve Shims"Kit" Part Number

Ilbikes

Ilbikes

I love old bikes
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May 15, 2009
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212
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Alabama
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09 ST
Hi, I am nearing my 16,000 mile check of the valve clearances on my 2009 ST1300 and would like to buy/own an assortment of Honda factory shims. Does Honda have an assorted kit they sell, or are they just available individually? I looked on the parts fiche and only individuals are showing. I prefer not to use aftermarket ones due to some bad experiences a friend had on shims purchased from a name-brand supplier on his Kawasaki Z1 (over bucket). They wore and scored very quickly due to being much softer than the factory shims. I have two different diameter full sets that I have accumulated for my Kawasakis and know that it is so nice having the right shim size to swap-in as you go. Unfortunately those for the KZ900 (29mm) and Turbo 750 (13mm) will not fit the Honda.

Inputs and part # appreciated. Thanks, Gordon
 
I checked with a local dealer when I was buying fork oil, they said they'd exchange if I needed different sizes when I do the check. Yours might as well.
 
at only 16k miles, I would check your valves to see if any need adjusting, If some do, then worry about getting shims. at that 16k miles I would guess that only about 1% of ST owners need to adjust any...YMMV
 
I've been using the HotCams kit, and though it's aftermarket, the few shims I've used from the kit have held the adjustment over tens of thousands of miles. I believe others have had the same experience.

Even if your local dealer allows exchanges, you have to interrupt the middle of your work and run to the dealer for the new shim once you know what you need. You also run the risk they won't have one, or like my local dealer would only exchange the ones he had lots of. If he only had one of two of the size you needed it was no dice. The STs (both 1100 & 1300) use the 7.48mm diameter shims.
 
The only down side to the Hot Cams kit (I have one, too) is that the increment between sizes is 0.05 mm, where the Honda shims are available in 0.025 mm increments. The HC shims will get you back into spec, but if you're picky about being as close to the center as possible, they may not get you as close as the Hondas.

For me, in spec is in spec. The only reason I can think of to try and shove it toward one side of center or the other is if one of the clearances has shown a lot of movement.

--Mark
 
Thanks Guys, Mark. I saw where you had the "traveling kit" that was very generous of you to do. I really want to get an assortment of my own and have them so I don't have to stop mid way and wait 7 days for on-line delivery. I haven't had a bike in a shop in the last 30 years and I am some 40 miles away from the nearest Honda dealership. I also don't want anyone working on shop rate to work on anything I have to keep. They cannot afford but to get in a hurry and make short-cuts. I had to drive 6 hours R/T to get to a dealer that had an ST for sale, let alone one that had ever pulled the plastic. I want to do these myself and know they are right. I would aim for nominal/nominal + clearance since the valve seat is where the clearance is created as the valve tip gets closer to the cam with every closure. The hard part is knowing where they are to start with and which might be needed.

Again, thanks for the inputs -

Gordon
 
I pulled the bike in my shop today and pulled the plastic and valve covers to check the valves. At 18,151 miles they were all still in spec as all of you said they would be. I have to wonder why Honda is sticking to the 16,000 mile intervals. #1 was .006 & a loose .009, #2 was .006 & a loose .009, #3 was .006 & .010, and #4 was 7 & 10. These are as good as they likely were from the factory.

I am so glad that I did this work myself. There were two issues that came up and it was through my attention to detail and not being in any hurry that prevented damage and/or problems. First was one of the 3 valve cover bolts - those long bolts have to be started into the threads very carefully. If the bolt isn't perfectly straight, the outside/front one will thread itself on the outside of the thread boss. I did all of them by hand and just knew something wasn't feeling right. I backed it out and carefully aligned the bolt with the head's 6mm hole. I'm not saying an experienced mechanic would not have done it correctly - but I know guys that are on rate labor don't have nor take the time. Some would have tightened it down and left it.
Second was the 1/3 valve cover. The rubber mat/cover that goes over the intake valley actually was pinched in between the cylinderhead and the valve cover when I re-installed the left side. It was Mellow's caution and my use of a small mirror that I used to check all around the cover that I found the small corner under the upper-left corner - had it not been for the double-check, that small 1" piece of rubber matt would have been under the valver cover's corner. Maybe a leak? Maybe not. One thing for sure - that one anyone could have done, but only my checking found it before tightening the cover down.

Thanks for all the inputs - it went smooth!

Regards, Gordon

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Ilbikes said:
Second was the 1/3 valve cover. The rubber mat/cover that goes over the intake valley actually was pinched in between the cylinderhead and the valve cover when I re-installed the left side. It was Mellow's caution and my use of a small mirror that I used to check all around the cover that I found the small corner under the upper-left corner - had it not been for the double-check, that small 1" piece of rubber matt would have been under the valver cover's corner. Maybe a leak? Maybe not. One thing for sure - that one anyone could have done, but only my checking found it before tightening the cover down.
Click to expand...

This has been reported several times over the years and you would have found out real early after starting the engine how fast oil can leak out of this engine. ;) Good catch and it doesn't hurt to remind everybody again...
 
Scooter said:
This has been reported several times over the years and you would have found out real early after starting the engine how fast oil can leak out of this engine. ;) Good catch and it doesn't hurt to remind everybody again...
Click to expand...

+1..it can make a mess very fast even just a slight pinch.

Gordon, glad it went well, pays to take your time and double and triple check your work. Even on a simple oil change I try to go over everything several times because when you get comfortable doing something that's usually when you miss a step.
 
Ilbikes said:
I pulled the bike in my shop today
Click to expand...

What a neat thing to be able to say...

While most people don't need a shim change at 16,000 miles, I did. And, I remember assisting ST Dan on a valve check at 48,000 or so miles where we changed several shims - was it eight exhaust shims Dan?
 
At 57K miles, I have one cylinder 3 Exhaust 1 with a tight .007mm tight one. Last time they were looked at 7K by Honda dealer. Rest are all in spec or spec range. Just ordered my HotCams kit.
 
The valve shims for the ST1100 and CT 1300 are the same size 7.48mm. Recommend to purchase the HotCam shim kit pn#68-2073 will cost about $92.00. This is the kit we use in our shop and it provides a good assortment.
 
If you do a winter service, you might be able to afford some downtime. I have a 7.48 and 9.48 shim kit and have done many valve checks/adjustments, albeit not on an ST..... the standard kits as mentioned only come in half sizes, and if you want quarter sizes, I get ProX shims from RockyMountainATV.... they'll have your order to you in less than a week.
Perhaps someone who has done ST's can relate what shim sizes were found, and you could assemble your own kit ahead of time in and around those sizes..... e.g., FJR's usually around 1.80-1.90. As well, you may be able to swap shims around.
Shims are not hardened and I've never seen one get banged up thinner.... that would be unusual. Perhaps the bike in question had carbon on the valves which later seated tighter, requiring reshimming at a later date??
 
There have been a few I know who confirmed they aren't hardened, and have sanded them to make custom shims. Well, I could admit they aren't real soft plain steel, but aren't that hard. I have sanded a couple myself but you have to take your time to ensure they stay flat (figure 8's over 3-400 grit sandpaper). I'd rather buy the quarter sizes.
 
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