Carolus
One STep beyond
Introduction. This is a farkle I realized just a year ago. I mounted what I was finding in traditional market due to I don't like to buy in internet exceptions apart. The wiring is completely DIY, i.e. no quartet harness was used.
1st Part: the speakers. I bought the best I found: a couple of 4" Infinity 4022i, 2 vias, 4 Ohms, 35 w. RMS and 92 db. Price: $105. In order to install them, I removed gauges panel. It is necessary to release 4 rivets on upper and lateral sides, 4 screws on the corners, 4 on the base (inside the fairing pockets) and another one inside both mirrors (the highest out of 3). Mirror housings can be removed giving a sharp pull out. Furthermore, two plugs must be unplugged; I also removed the windshield for better working, but really it's not necessary.
Speakers are screwed to the OEM Honda boxes (price: $10) and fixed to frame by straps. I made a hole in the fairing pocket in order to drive wires into it.
2nd Part: the wiring. I obtained power from fuse box. Seat, saddlebag and left panel are removed loosening three screws.
The output of the fuse that protects the primary circuit of lights seems to be very good, since it works after key. To find the entry or exit of a fuse, it is removed and the output corresponds to the terminal that has no power. Thus the new wire is protected by a fuse.
I connect this wire to a relay, which closes the primary circuit and launches a new line -also protected by a fuse- which comes from the battery and goes to the fairing pocket. Using a relay is better for several reasons:
The technical data of these components are: relay up to 200 w. consumption, silicone-dressed wire and 15 amp fuse (up to 180 w. consumption).
New wire is driven under fuel tank for which I picked it up, releasing two front screws and loosening the base to move it back to allow it. In areas in which may be a little more exposed, I wrap the wire in a rubber hose for extra strength.
Positive wire reaches fairing pocket. I get negative pole from frame and fix also at this point the negative wiring of the electronic aerial.
Wires are connected by plugs that can be released simply by pulling. With key in its normal position, I have power.
Test with lights on and it seems everything is in order. Finally, I put all the elements in place and give the aerial its final location.
OEM Honda rivet is replaced by a standard one for better fixing. Wiring is waiting for sound source.
3rd Part: CD radio. I bought the following:
This radio requires 2 positive wires: one after key and another permanent one to keep presets and other preferences, so I drove another positive wire parallel to first one, but plugged directly to relay (battery plug); remember that this wire was protected by a fuse.
Testing new wire:
I connect all the wires and place car radio into fairing pocket:
And remote control:
Result. I ride around 70-80 mph because I prefer to enjoy the scenery listening to music meanwhile. I've filled a flash drive with more than 1000 tracks in MP3 format with my music and riding now is much better than before, so I can say installation has been fully successful.
1st Part: the speakers. I bought the best I found: a couple of 4" Infinity 4022i, 2 vias, 4 Ohms, 35 w. RMS and 92 db. Price: $105. In order to install them, I removed gauges panel. It is necessary to release 4 rivets on upper and lateral sides, 4 screws on the corners, 4 on the base (inside the fairing pockets) and another one inside both mirrors (the highest out of 3). Mirror housings can be removed giving a sharp pull out. Furthermore, two plugs must be unplugged; I also removed the windshield for better working, but really it's not necessary.
Speakers are screwed to the OEM Honda boxes (price: $10) and fixed to frame by straps. I made a hole in the fairing pocket in order to drive wires into it.
2nd Part: the wiring. I obtained power from fuse box. Seat, saddlebag and left panel are removed loosening three screws.
The output of the fuse that protects the primary circuit of lights seems to be very good, since it works after key. To find the entry or exit of a fuse, it is removed and the output corresponds to the terminal that has no power. Thus the new wire is protected by a fuse.
I connect this wire to a relay, which closes the primary circuit and launches a new line -also protected by a fuse- which comes from the battery and goes to the fairing pocket. Using a relay is better for several reasons:
- Only a bit of power needed to activate it.
- New line from battery allows future farkles connected when necessary.
The technical data of these components are: relay up to 200 w. consumption, silicone-dressed wire and 15 amp fuse (up to 180 w. consumption).
New wire is driven under fuel tank for which I picked it up, releasing two front screws and loosening the base to move it back to allow it. In areas in which may be a little more exposed, I wrap the wire in a rubber hose for extra strength.
Positive wire reaches fairing pocket. I get negative pole from frame and fix also at this point the negative wiring of the electronic aerial.
Wires are connected by plugs that can be released simply by pulling. With key in its normal position, I have power.
Test with lights on and it seems everything is in order. Finally, I put all the elements in place and give the aerial its final location.
OEM Honda rivet is replaced by a standard one for better fixing. Wiring is waiting for sound source.
3rd Part: CD radio. I bought the following:
- Pioneer CD car radio DEH-2200UB with USB port in front and remote control port in rear. Price: $175.
- Wired remote control Sony RM-X4S. Price: $54.
This radio requires 2 positive wires: one after key and another permanent one to keep presets and other preferences, so I drove another positive wire parallel to first one, but plugged directly to relay (battery plug); remember that this wire was protected by a fuse.
Testing new wire:
I connect all the wires and place car radio into fairing pocket:
And remote control:
Result. I ride around 70-80 mph because I prefer to enjoy the scenery listening to music meanwhile. I've filled a flash drive with more than 1000 tracks in MP3 format with my music and riding now is much better than before, so I can say installation has been fully successful.
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