OP
OP
Springs and gold valves $ 420 I had my friend at Honda of Santa Barbara do the forks and also helped me check my valves on the ST and the labor was $ 200
Race Tech Suspension discount
- Thread starter 970mike
- Start date
Springs and gold valves $ 420 I had my friend at Honda of Santa Barbara do the forks and also helped me check my valves on the ST and the labor was $ 200
VFR
"Uncle Larry"
John Gardner from San Diego area was the bike that Racetech used as a prototype for that. I saw it at CreSTOC. Very nice setup.
Hey Guys,
Please help me out.
I have an '08 ST1300 with 18,000 miles. For me, it seems to handle just fine. But I'm not a 10/10 rider (maybe 6 or 7/10) and probably wouldn't know a good suspension setup from a bad one since I've only ridden stock.
I rode my '93 ST1100 for 60K miles on the stock suspension and was perfectly happy. I'm located in NE Ohio where there aren't alot of twisty roads, just alot of bad pavement. However I do head down to the twisties in SE Ohio/W VA/SW Penn often. I also get around 10K miles on a set of tires.
When you talk about the difference this suspension upgrade accomplishes, just what do you refer to? I'd really like to understand what I may be missing out on to make my bike handle even better than stock. Or am I not the kind of rider that will appreciate the subtle difference this kind of work will make? Is there another thread on the forum that I should be looking at or directing this question to?
Thanks in advance for your comments,
Dale
Please help me out.
I have an '08 ST1300 with 18,000 miles. For me, it seems to handle just fine. But I'm not a 10/10 rider (maybe 6 or 7/10) and probably wouldn't know a good suspension setup from a bad one since I've only ridden stock.
I rode my '93 ST1100 for 60K miles on the stock suspension and was perfectly happy. I'm located in NE Ohio where there aren't alot of twisty roads, just alot of bad pavement. However I do head down to the twisties in SE Ohio/W VA/SW Penn often. I also get around 10K miles on a set of tires.
When you talk about the difference this suspension upgrade accomplishes, just what do you refer to? I'd really like to understand what I may be missing out on to make my bike handle even better than stock. Or am I not the kind of rider that will appreciate the subtle difference this kind of work will make? Is there another thread on the forum that I should be looking at or directing this question to?
Thanks in advance for your comments,
Dale
I have the same questions as dhall854. Having never modified my suspension, what would the difference be?
OP
OP
There is a big difference in the way the bike handles with the upgraded forks. It takes the sharpness out of the bumps yet gives you a firm and stable ride as compared to the OEM springs and valves. I will get the rear shock done at a latter time as the rear is very lightly sprung.
Simply put there are two forces at play. High speed and low speed compression damping. Neither have anything to do with the speed of the bike but the type of bump. High speed would be a board or bump and low speed would be the normal undulation of the road surface. Your suspension should absorb the movement w/o transferring it to the handle bars. You also need rebound damping or the ability to push the tire back to the road surface befor the next high speed or low speed compression cycle.
Valving and spring rate are the most important combinations. Too little and you will have a pogo stick and too much you will have a solid front end. The bounce will transfer to your hands. How you will notice is how you have to hang on. Some will call it a death grip. While in a corner do you find yourself pressing to initiate the turn and then you hit a bump and feel the bike want to stand up and you have to press again? Do you feel yourself having to really press to keep the bike in a corner?
As some have heard me say the stock suspension was designed by Archamedes and installed by Plato. You only have so much travel of your suspension. Generally speaking by 25k your stock suspension is using most of that travel to hold the bike up. The suspension upgrade we are talking about is the difference of night and day. You find that very little pressure is needed to initiate the turn and while in the turn little pressure is needed to stay in your line. You will hit a bump but the bike does not want to stand up. It will just go over it mostly unnoticed.
Most generally a new stock suspension is set up for a 145 pound rider. Even new it is woefully under sprung. Putting new springs controls some of the issue but as I stated above you have two forces.
Now the rear as some have mentioned is what ties it all together. Too light of a spring and you will feel the shock bottom out. Too heavy and you will get bounced off the seat. The bike has preload that adjusts the amount of pressure on the top of the spring. Too little and it allows the shock to travel a greater distance without the spring helping hold the rear end up. Too light or too heavy of a spring and the rear will collapse or be to stiff. Again, generally the rear shock is set for a 145 pound rider.
The rear also can change the rake and trail of the bike. That is the angle of the front forks in relationship to the frame. Raising the rear shock will give a more neutral rake thus quickening the steering input, most noticeable in slow speed turns. The opposite can be said for the speed the bike drops in a corner. Most will settle for a happy medium. Some want a plush ride and will sacrifice the quickness of compression and rebound. Some want the opposite and want the responsiveness in the corners. With a proper spring and shock you have better adjustability.
In the end the way to tell is how you feel. Are you relaxed? Do you feel like you are pushing the bike? The biggest difference between stock and a true tuned suspension is at the end of the day do you feel like you had a workout. You should have to put very little input to make the bike respond and go where you want it. Also, once you give it the input it should stay there until "you" give it another input. In other words while in a straight line you should have little or no pressure on either grip and the bike should continue in a straight line. Once you start your pressure in your inside grip to initiate a corner you should be able to almost ride one handed all the way through the corner until a slight pressure on the opposite grip is needed to straighten the bike up.
I hope this helps
Valving and spring rate are the most important combinations. Too little and you will have a pogo stick and too much you will have a solid front end. The bounce will transfer to your hands. How you will notice is how you have to hang on. Some will call it a death grip. While in a corner do you find yourself pressing to initiate the turn and then you hit a bump and feel the bike want to stand up and you have to press again? Do you feel yourself having to really press to keep the bike in a corner?
As some have heard me say the stock suspension was designed by Archamedes and installed by Plato. You only have so much travel of your suspension. Generally speaking by 25k your stock suspension is using most of that travel to hold the bike up. The suspension upgrade we are talking about is the difference of night and day. You find that very little pressure is needed to initiate the turn and while in the turn little pressure is needed to stay in your line. You will hit a bump but the bike does not want to stand up. It will just go over it mostly unnoticed.
Most generally a new stock suspension is set up for a 145 pound rider. Even new it is woefully under sprung. Putting new springs controls some of the issue but as I stated above you have two forces.
Now the rear as some have mentioned is what ties it all together. Too light of a spring and you will feel the shock bottom out. Too heavy and you will get bounced off the seat. The bike has preload that adjusts the amount of pressure on the top of the spring. Too little and it allows the shock to travel a greater distance without the spring helping hold the rear end up. Too light or too heavy of a spring and the rear will collapse or be to stiff. Again, generally the rear shock is set for a 145 pound rider.
The rear also can change the rake and trail of the bike. That is the angle of the front forks in relationship to the frame. Raising the rear shock will give a more neutral rake thus quickening the steering input, most noticeable in slow speed turns. The opposite can be said for the speed the bike drops in a corner. Most will settle for a happy medium. Some want a plush ride and will sacrifice the quickness of compression and rebound. Some want the opposite and want the responsiveness in the corners. With a proper spring and shock you have better adjustability.
In the end the way to tell is how you feel. Are you relaxed? Do you feel like you are pushing the bike? The biggest difference between stock and a true tuned suspension is at the end of the day do you feel like you had a workout. You should have to put very little input to make the bike respond and go where you want it. Also, once you give it the input it should stay there until "you" give it another input. In other words while in a straight line you should have little or no pressure on either grip and the bike should continue in a straight line. Once you start your pressure in your inside grip to initiate a corner you should be able to almost ride one handed all the way through the corner until a slight pressure on the opposite grip is needed to straighten the bike up.
I hope this helps
I had the Gold valves installed this last March. I sent my forks to California, told them I,m 250#, and I like to tour as much as throwing the bike thru tight corners, at high speeds and they set it up with their expert knowledge base. I also had them select new springs for me. They bike handles phenomenally now! Then I went to the Works folks and had them build me a proRacer mono shock with adjustable rebound and compression damping. The bike now can't handle any better, in my opinion! It's perfect for every kind of riding I do! Note that they have to deactivate the anti-dive mechanism on the left fork, for ST1100's to install the " cartridge emulator " with the Gold valves. Not to worry, cause if you have the springs they select for you, you don't need it.
fiziks
I brake things.
Anyone know if the 20% WESTOC discount is still in effect?
OP
OP
I would call them to find out.
Called down to Racetech today to see if this is still active.
The gal I talked to said yes!
Parts are getting ordered in the morning
Sean
The gal I talked to said yes!
Parts are getting ordered in the morning
Sean
OP
OP
Called down to Racetech today to see if this is still active.
The gal I talked to said yes!
Parts are getting ordered in the morning
Sean
Nice! Enjoy the new ride.
Talk to michelle at ext#122 Let her know you would like the Westoc discount.
Racetech 1-951-279-6655
Sean
Racetech 1-951-279-6655
Sean
Just a side note for those who live in the Southern California region and choose to leave the Steed with Race Tech rather than pay the extra 'while you wait' fee. They are about three minutes from a LA Metro station and will give you a ride over and a pickup. LA Metro puts you into the Amtrac system as well as the San Diego Coaster which is what I used. Just a heads up for those with more time than money.
John
John
Hmm, wish I'd searched on race tech discount yesterday, but they gave me 15% just for being so darned nice... and riding an ST.