My ST1100 - overview

Good to hear. :) I have nothing to compare. I will try cold start today, if it goes OK, I hope I am ready for this season. :04biker:
 
huntingdog said:
No. Pilots screws regulate the air fuel mixture at idle mainly. There is not enough info given in the manual to answer how the power reduction is done. Even the main jets are the same. Maybe a throttle limiter? :think1:
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I also realize, that my red zone starts at 5000rpm, not 8000 as "standard" model.
 
ST_SVK said:
I also realize, that my red zone starts at 5000rpm, not 8000 as "standard" model.
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That is sounding like a different Ignition is in the Bike.
I would be curious to take a good look at those Carbs.
On some European Magnas 1994-2003 there was an actual blocking plate on the intake of the Carb.
 
huntingdog said:
Do you know how the Swiss model has its power reduced? I am guessing airflow restrictors to the carbs and different jetting?
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I reckon a discussion about that (aeons ago...)
IIRC smaller jets, restricted carb insulators (ID smaller), ICU differs... rumors about different cams are not confirmed...
 
ST_SVK said:
I also realize, that my red zone starts at 5000rpm, not 8000 as "standard" model.
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This isn't actually a red zone. More like a not very efficient ( as in fuel economy zone). This is just my understanding and I haven't read it anywhere. The bike will rev out to it's limiter at 9500rpm ( yes the red zone starts at 8k but it will do it).
 
huntingdog said:
The bike will rev out to it's limiter at 9500rpm ( yes the red zone starts at 8k but it will do it).
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Uhm... not according to my experience...
At pretty much exactly 8500rpm the ignition retards... feels like running out of fuel... right during a "dog fight" with a high powered car...
 
ST1100Y said:
Uhm... not according to my experience...
At pretty much exactly 8500rpm the ignition retards... feels like running out of fuel... right during a "dog fight" with a high powered car...
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I may be remembering it wrong, could be 8500.
 
I tried it, and bike can go slightly over 6000, than it can´t go any further, so some difference can be there also. Or I just don´t want to push it. :D But I have a feeling, that bike starts to stop ingnition at this point (somewhere over 6000rpm).

I can investigate further during next ride, but I don´t know why to ride at so hi rpm, everything between 3000 - 5000 is enough for anything on road. :)
 
ST_SVK said:
I tried it, and bike can go slightly over 6000, than it can´t go any further, so some difference can be there also. Or I just don´t want to push it. :D But I have a feeling, that bike starts to stop ingnition at this point (somewhere over 6000rpm).

I can investigate further during next ride, but I don´t know why to ride at so hi rpm, everything between 3000 - 5000 is enough for anything on road. :)
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This is strange. My ST is a Swiss model and is at 72hp by the papers, 5k redzone start and all, but it revs out to redline. So maybe:
1 there is a problem with your bike that is keeping it from doing it.
2 My bike has been derestricted by the previous owner and I have max power I think this is the case, because it is a very quick bike for its 300kg weight. If this is the case then maybe I have given you not correct info on how it operates.

ST1100Y said:
IIRC
max torque @ 4200rpm
max power @ 6500rpm
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FireShot Capture 009 - Horsepower_Torque Curve 1991 Honda ST1100 Pan Europan (model since ea_ ...png
 
Your data looks like full power, not Swiss one, so someone in the past was playing with it maybe. But I am going to put carbs out and let it lean and also change intake boots, so I will see. I´ll let you know. ;)
 
Today was really not a good day for my bike. :(

One lady on SUV saw me, but my right of way was for her nothing, so she drove in front of me and bike goes down.
I am allright, bike was able to be driven back to garage, only visible problem now is that handlebars are not straigth according to wheel (it is twisted to one side), left back view mirror (cover OK), front fender broken and left fairing totally broken (bike felt on it)...

I have to wait for insurance company, after that I can start disassembly and see total damage. I am most concerned about handlebars now, I hope I will be able to put it back to its position, if yes, all other things are "just visual".

What a day...
 

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Glad u are ok. It won't take much but look for the insurance company to total your bike. So be prepared for it. Hope you get enough to make you whole. Be safe out there.
 
I am prepared that they total it, that is how it goes here. I will see, their guy comes to check it on Tuesday. I already have booked all parts, but first I have to disassemble everything and try to straighten front wheel (fork). If that goes well, all other things are visual. I also have to check the frame, so a lot of things to do. But, insurance matters first. I´ll keep update about it here. :)
 
Years ago I similarly tweaked the bars so they were out of line with the front wheel. Frame was good. Got the bars looking like they should (almost) by forcibly leveraging the wheel against something immovable, as one would do as a kid with bicycle. Don't remember which triple tree bolts I loosened, if any. Has been fine for 13 years.
 
@DeanR: I really hope for that solution. If it will work, I´ll be really happy, cause I want to be back on the road as soon as possible (but bike have to be in great condition first).
 
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