Article [13] ST1300 - Electric Windshield Assembly - Remove / Clean / Reinstall

warofman9

warofman9

Joined
Sep 2, 2007
Messages
22
Location
Ohio
Bike
ST1300
Two documents:

1st - Removal of the Electric Windshield Assembly
2nd - Clean and Reinstall
 

Attachments

  • ST1300 Window Adjustment Mechanism Removal.pdf
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  • ST1300 Window Adjustment Mechanism Clean Lubricate Re-assemble.pdf
    693.2 KB · Views: 1,839
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The timing of your article is perfect as I was going to attempt this this week without instructions. I will post if there are any confusions with your instructions.

Thank You
 
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In your article you mention you have not been able to source the cables. They look remarkably similar to aircraft Bowden cables (push/pull). You may be able to source the cables from this company, no connection. Alternatively, drop them a mail and see if they can help.

http://www.cable-tec.co.uk/applications.asp

Cheers
 
Hey:) GREAT write-up! Easy to follow.. Good pix. Just pulled it up on the ipad and walked through it as I went. :)

Takes a bit of time.. Allow 2 hours. It can be done in under an hour, but not thoroughly!

Thanks again!
 
mlheck,
Definitely open to suggestions & corrections from the STboard members. I can modify as needed.
Mulski
Thanks for the cable company contact (will follow through)....
Chance
I am with you.. Its takes a bit of time & concentration but everything is fairly logical once you get into it ....
Thanks for the comments.
ricke (warofman9)
 
Thanks for this article....it prompted me to remove and service my lift unit and boy, did it ever need it. The gear shows some wear but the teeth are intact. I did find that the sliders on mine were swelled where the inserted nuts had compressed the plastic when torqued. This tightened them up in the slider guide, especially at the spot weld locations. I worked the spot welds over with an India stone and removed the bulges in the sliders and the unit loosened up nicely. Thanks for your time and efforts to make this article. It undoubtedly saved me some money.
 
warofman9 said:
Two documents:

1st - Removal of the Electric Windshield Assembly
2nd - Clean and Reinstall
Click to expand...

Wow, impressive. Mine does this sort of non-symmetric travel from the down to up position, and I wondered why. When I looked at it to simply "dive in", I began to think this was not the place for a non-professional. This gives me some hope that it is. It also convinces me that the systems are far more sophisticated these days than they ever have been.

Thanks for the education,
-Paul
 
Non-symmetrical travel could be bad... maybe you can catch it before gear/cable failure.
Go ahead , get some time, a clear head , and jump right in...
For me, the getting started part is the hardest part.

It was kind of cool to figure it out and the document it all...
Kindof a test of my diminishing organizational skills. ...;
Thinking that all mechanisms of a certain age could live longer if a certain amount of maintenance is performed... this one, no exception.
 
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warofman9 said:
Two documents:

1st - Removal of the Electric Windshield Assembly
2nd - Clean and Reinstall
Click to expand...

Excellent, detailed write-ups! It takes a lot of work and time to do as thorough a job of documenting a procedure as you have but it is greatly appreciated by all. You can't have too many pictures and labeling things in the pics really make a big difference. Hats off to you!:bow1:
 
I finally got a chance to try this and your directions were spot on. As mentioned earlier the pictures with labels made the job much easier. Thank you for putting this together.

My cables and gear showed a little wear but nothing serious yet. I had the same tight spots in the rail at the welds that others have mentioned. I also had one slider that was a little loose for me bending the arms around in an earlier attempt at a windshield mod. I was able to tighten up the slider by cutting additional shims out of bakers aluminum foil and adding them till it matched the other side. I needed 2 of these shims. There is still some movement in both sides, bit now the windshield bounces much less in turbulence.



Sent from my RAZR M using Tapatalk 2
 
Following up on the cable comments in the procedure, it looks like a lot of sunroofs use spiral wound cable. I might have to take mine apart to get the specs and see if I can find a substitute. If I ever get that bored...might be an interested project.
 
It was a good project for me and all comments are appreciated.
I unfortunately have reached a dead end on the cables.
They are not exactly Bowden cables but a specific variation common in newer Hondas (and perhaps other) sunroofs.
Not sure that I will go forward with another batch unless I can significantly cut costs (both for me and for Stowners).
I may pick this up again this winter. Those cables are out there.
There are 2 gear kits left, if anyone is interested in a spare or possible repair, feel free to Email.
 
Just performed this maintenance on my 2003 ST1300A. Very good information and helpful - thanks for putting these documents together. A couple of points to add:
1. I had to disconnect two electrical plugs: one for the limit switches and one for motor power.
2. There's no mention about how important the windshield brackets are. If these are misaligned upon reassembly, you could be in for major problems. I found this out the hard way. Do not remove them from the dogs.
I did find plenty of sticky, waxy "lube" when I took the mechanism apart. Hopefully I've avoided more serious issues down the road.
 
Thanks for the detailed info, the instructions are great. I decided to perform this today while I had my wife's bike torn apart for multiple maintenance items. I discovered the sliders had compressed just a bit at the points where the internal nut is located which was dragging just a bit at the points where the welds are located along the track.

Also, there was evidence of slight twisting of the square nuts in the sliders by the wear patterns on the corners of the nuts (probably happened when originally tightened) and slight rubbing against the sides of the track. Additionally, the lubricant was gummy, which was also causing some additional friction. Fortunately, the gear and cables were in good shape. I dressed up the sliders, and dry-fitted all the components and all was sliding free and easy. I re-greased all the pertinent points and reassembled.

However, when I reassembled the sliders, I tightened the bolts and found the assembly was still dragging just a bit at the weld points. I backed the bolts off just slightly which immediately relieved the dragging at the weld points (which either un-twisted the nuts, or uncompressed the plastic slider). The assembly is now as smooth as glass. Now, just one more assembly to go...
 
Just did mine this week -- thanks to Ricke for this great fix.

Both my cables were "frayed" and so I twisted them around for a fresh bite. It might just be me, but the instructions state, upon reassembly, to position the dogs 1/8-inch from the micro switch on one side and the same from the stop on the other...... In my reading that had them misaligned, so I just positioned them both equal distance from the ends of the rails, then installed the cables into the gearbox.

Back on the road. Joe in IL
 
fnmag said:
Thank you for the detailed write up.
Click to expand...

Appreciate all the support from the ST board.

ST1300 owners
Machined & Heat treated replacement gear kits are now in stock.
The gears are machined from heat treated 4140 steel bar stock and will not deteriorate like the OEM powder metal drive gear.
They are a simple drop-in replacement for the Honda gear and provides insurance against total failure and often fixes completely failed mechanisms.
Note that its best to replace the drive gear and clean these expensive assemblies prior to complete failure.

See these threads for further details:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/show...ent&highlight=
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/show...all&highlight=


ST1300 windshield adjuster gears made by a small shop here in the USA.
Gear kits are still 140$ shipped (anywhere in continental US)(multiple kit orders could be less). The kit includes the replacement gear,a 1.75 oz tube of soap based lithium grease (NLGI#2), and several brushes. Shipments outside the US, on a case by case basis (shipping varies quite a bit) but should be around 160$.
Paypal is preferred. carlermotorcycleparts@gmail.com tell me your general location and the quantity desired.
As always; thanks to everyone who has contributed technically and otherwise.
ricke (warofman9)
 
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