My front wheel keeps sticking seems to be related to the clutch

[ebibie]

Hi,

I have a 2002 Honda ST1100 and I have an issue with the front wheel getting stuck, to the point where I am unable to move the bike backwards it's stuck so hard. But I can ride forward using engine power.

I thought this issue was occurring in the morning after a cold night but it actually seems to be related to how often I use the clutch before stopping, I have a habit of holding the clutch in during slow corners, which there's a lot of as I drive home

After feathering the clutch like this for long periods, when I then stop, the bike will be 'stuck' and I can't push it backwards. If I ride without needing to use the clutch very often and then stop then the bike will move backwards fine.

After it becomes stuck, if i ride for a little while without using the clutch then it will becomes unstuck and roll backwards fine.

A friend also mentioned he smelt burning when I pulled up next to him but I can't be sure as my sense of smell is non existent since covid

I checked the fluid in the little containers on the handlebars and seems almost full, when this happens my bike is unable to move forward on the clutch too. Normally I can edge forward slowly with just the clutch and no revs, but when this happens the bike will not move forward and stall instead if I open the clutch with 0 revs

Any ideas what could cause this? Or where I should start looking first?

 

[PhotoDoctor]

It's not your clutch. Your front brake is sticking and probably because the return hole in the brake master cylinder is plugged up.

 

[Sadlsor]

Agreed it sounds more like brakes than clutch.

 

[Al st1100]

get the bike on the center stand in neutral. Hit the front brake a few times , release the brake and see if the front wheel spins. If it does not, crack open the front bleeder to see if that frees the wheel. If the wheel spins with out cracking the bleeder do the same to the rear wheel. If any of the wheels free up by cracking the bleeder, the return in front/rear master could be plugged , a line could be restricted. Get a baster suck the fluid out of the master cylinder and see what the bottom looks like.

 

[Upt' North]

The front brake calipers are prone to sticky pistons in the UK riding environment.
To start with slip them off and push the pistons out a few mm (not enough to fall out), then using a boot lace wrapped around the piston and soaked in brake fluid go to work on the surface. If it polishes up and it may take a while you can then push it back in.
I found this was best done once a year even when not riding in the crap.
If it doesn't work then new stainless pistons and new seals will be required.
The fluid will also require biannual changes, the rear is very important when it comes to fluid changes.
Good luck.
Upt.

 

[Upt' North]

Oh yes, the slipping the clutch sounds a bit weird in normal riding.

 

[wjbertrand]

There’s no interaction possible between the clutch and the front wheel. Something is going on with the brake system. How do you know it’s the front wheel causing this?

 

[Slydynbye]

If it's not the little hole in the brake master, It's probably time to clean out the Brake pistons.
They can get grit in them and prevent the Pistons from returning properly after braking.

 

[Uncle Phil]

ABSII by any chance?

 

[Slydynbye]

ABSII by any chance?

Good question, thinking secondary master or proportional control valve?

 

[wjbertrand]

Does your bike by any chance have an aftermarket fork brace fitted?

 

[Oldbikefixr]

1100's are considered to be 'classics' by some groups. Most are long over due some love and attention.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Good question, thinking secondary master or proportional control valve?

Yep that was sort of what I was thinking.

 

[ReSTored]

I checked the fluid in the little containers on the handlebars and seems almost full................

No disrespect intended, but I think it would be helpful if the OP outlined his familiarity and comfort doing mechanical work on the bike, as his above comment suggests that he may not be in a position to pull the wheels and clean calipers, pads, pins, pistons, inside of master cylinder, change out fluid and properly bleed lines etc..........

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I checked the fluid in the little containers on the handlebars and seems almost full, when this happens my bike is unable to move forward on the clutch too.

Is the front (and/or rear) brake master cylinder reservoir too full?
If there is to much fluid in the reservoir the pressure on the brake pistons can not be released sufficiently to allow the brakes to completely release. It sounds like your condition is related to heat. If the reservoir is overfilled, the additional expansion of the brake fluid due to heat will cause additional pressure to be exerted on the brakes. After you have ridden for a little while the brake system, and therefore the brake fluid, cools down and contracts enough to release enough pressure to release the brakes. The burning smell is from riding with the brakes always being applied to some degree.

Check to see if the brake master cylinder reservoir is overfilled. There is a line on the master cylinder to indicate the maximum brake fluid level. If it is overfilled, as a simple test remove a little bit of brake fluid to get down to the maximum level indication on the reservoir and see if that makes a difference.

 

[ebibie]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I got it on the main stand earlier and it turns out it's the back wheel sticking not the front. I can spin the front wheel freely, I thought it was that one because that's the wheel that squeaks.

The back wheel is so stiff I have to really push to get it to move, and it's easier for me to roll it forwards than it is backwards for some reason.

I don't have the ABS model and my mechanical knowledge is pretty much 0 however I'm going to run through the suggestions mentioned so far and google to see what I can manage.

I did remove my rear wheel to get the tyre replaced, and I reattached it. So maybe I didn't do that properly and it's caused an issue? I did this last summer and I can't really remember when this sticking issue started to know if it's related

 

[Al st1100]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I got it on the main stand earlier and it turns out it's the back wheel sticking not the front. I can spin the front wheel freely, I thought it was that one because that's the wheel that squeaks.

The back wheel is so stiff I have to really push to get it to move, and it's easier for me to roll it forwards than it is backwards for some reason.

I don't have the ABS model and my mechanical knowledge is pretty much 0 however I'm going to run through the suggestions mentioned so far and google to see what I can manage.

I did remove my rear wheel to get the tyre replaced, and I reattached it. So maybe I didn't do that properly and it's caused an issue? I did this last summer and I can't really remember when this sticking issue started to know if it's related

take and see if you can push the pads away from the rotor. If you can and wheel still doesn't turn something is wrong in assembly. If you cant crack the bleeder and see if it spins. Go back to post #4

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I got it on the main stand earlier and it turns out it's the back wheel sticking not the front. I can spin the front wheel freely, I thought it was that one because that's the wheel that squeaks.

In that case, most likely an SMC (secondary master cylinder) problem.

 

[jfheath]

I got it on the main stand earlier and it turns out it's the back wheel sticking not the front. I can spin the front wheel freely, I thought it was that one because that's the wheel that squeaks.

So it looks like you have two brake problems. The squeaky front and the stuck rear.

You say that it is not ABS. I think in that case, there is no SMC to be causing the rear to lock up, so the issue is the individual braking systems.

This could be

The calipers not sliding
The pad springs jammed
the pistons stuck in their bores
the master cylinder (at the brake pedal or lever) clogged and not releasing pressure.
etc

It could be many other things, but not having the abs or combined braking system makes things easier and cheaper.

I'd be expecting to have to take off each caliper in turn and check the movement and the state of the pistons and replace the parts that need it.

Seal set for one piston is around £17. A new piston is around £50. There are two on each caliper
Pad pin is £9, slider rubber boot is £8. All Oem prices rounded up a bit.

Parts may clean up ok, in which case they can be reused, but if you have gone this far seals are best replaced.

I should mention that aftermarket parts can be obtained. I have no idea as to how good they are or whether or not they fit.
But this one was the first result from a quick ebay search .. Link. A full set for one caliper for around £60. Someone else may be able to recommend or rubbish them. I have no opinion, I have always bought OEM. The link is an example only - you would have to verify the correct part for your model.


You can get a feel for the problem by pushing in the pistons by hand and then miving them out again. You can also clean them up in place and get an idea how many need replacing - if any. They should be smooth and shiny.

Where in the Uk are you ?
Do you have tools ?
How long have you owned the bike ?
Does it know any history ?

 

[Sadlsor]

I have never seen an non ABS ST1300. Non ABS do not have linked brakes and have no SMC?

There are early model 1300s without ABS. All 1300s have linked brakes, however. I know little about the 1100s, other than what I've read here by some of you guys.
But let's go back to the OPs first post in this thread:
"I have a 2002 Honda ST1100..."