That begs the question as to why a 2002 model would have those sheared bolts?
Honda st1100a ignition
- Thread starter John 123
- Start date
That begs the question as to why a 2002 model would have those sheared bolts?
Going out on a limb here to see if this idea might help the OP, without him having to go drilling in there.
Get a can of brake cleaner, one with the fine tube for attaching to the nozzle and insert that into the lock, to help contain the spray within the lock. COVER any painted surfaces above and below the triple tree where brake cleaner could run/splash out. (Hoping it will run out somewhere, of course.)
You have put oil in there already, which is bad for locks to begin with, as it just attracts dirt. Powdered graphite is what you want to lube locks with.
If that works to flush out any crud, the brake cleaner will eventually evaporate with no residue and it may free up the lock. If so, once a day or so has passed, lube with some graphite.
Good luck with whatever route you have to take to correct the issue.
Get a can of brake cleaner, one with the fine tube for attaching to the nozzle and insert that into the lock, to help contain the spray within the lock. COVER any painted surfaces above and below the triple tree where brake cleaner could run/splash out. (Hoping it will run out somewhere, of course.)
You have put oil in there already, which is bad for locks to begin with, as it just attracts dirt. Powdered graphite is what you want to lube locks with.
If that works to flush out any crud, the brake cleaner will eventually evaporate with no residue and it may free up the lock. If so, once a day or so has passed, lube with some graphite.
Good luck with whatever route you have to take to correct the issue.
Thanks for that I will have a go on the weekend. Hopefully this will work.
ChriSTian_64
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- Feb 5, 2020
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- Deux-Montagnes, Quebec, Canada
- Bike
- 2000 ST1100Y
- STOC #
- 9063
Yeah... instead of oil and wd-40, I would try with a good penetrating lubricant, like "loose nut" or any other... but a product specialy made to penetrate between two sticken parts. And leave the product enough time to do its job, that is a few hours. And then reaply and let it alone again for a while. Repeat as many time as necessary. And... dont break the key inside the switch... meaning, if it is still jammed, dont insist too much. Be gentle with the key.
And also... I have to ask : are you sure you have the good key ? Because it is the first time I hear someone with this kind of issue.
And also... I have to ask : are you sure you have the good key ? Because it is the first time I hear someone with this kind of issue.
you can grind, with a cut off wheel, a slot for a screwdriver. And/or get a sharp chisel and smack it in a counterclockwise direction. Once broken free it should come out easily.
It’s also possibility that you’ve got worn-out key. Wafers aren’t being moved enough to allow lock cylinder to turn.
Search on here on how to find key-code and get brand-new keys cut (not pre-worn copies). Safer and less money spent compared to breaking key in lock and having to buy new ignition and replacing other matching locks.
cyclekeysonline.com
Search on here on how to find key-code and get brand-new keys cut (not pre-worn copies). Safer and less money spent compared to breaking key in lock and having to buy new ignition and replacing other matching locks.
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Also if you must replace ignition-switch, best to remove entire upper fork clamp so you can flip it upside down and hold firmly in vise. Then it’s much much easier to grind and remove security bolts. Replace with regular allen socket-cap screws.
No thief is going to waste time with those bolts. They’ll just pick up bike and toss into back of van. Those bolts just hinder legitimate owners from working on their own bikes.
No thief is going to waste time with those bolts. They’ll just pick up bike and toss into back of van. Those bolts just hinder legitimate owners from working on their own bikes.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Did exactly that during the refurb of the '94 ST (installed a full new lock-set, they were in real bad shape since the PO left it parked outside all year round), drilled the heads off, easy to unscrew the stubs after that; but I received and used new snap-off bolts that came with the original P/N... it's not like I need to access this like twice a year
STmark1300
Ron
I have an O5 1300. On page 15-9 there are two special bolts on the handlebar bridge. Can anyone tell me how they come out other than counter clockwise. Or is this the problem you were talking about. The book just says remove the special bolts.
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Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
They are only special because they have holes drilled and tapped in the heads of them to allow them to accept the screws that hold the decorative cover on.
Other than that they are not special, no different than any other bolt.