The oil is rated for use on wet clutches (JASO MA) and I am using this oil on my other bikes with hydraulic clutches.
Thanks, will do. I'll be checking the MC return port as well to make sure it releases pressure.
Getting to Know the Bike
- Thread starter draser
- Start date
The oil is rated for use on wet clutches (JASO MA) and I am using this oil on my other bikes with hydraulic clutches.
Thanks, will do. I'll be checking the MC return port as well to make sure it releases pressure.
The bike is now home after trailering, etc. I was able to load the bike onto the trailer with engine power, but lost power (to rear wheel) shortly. So, I guess the plan is to start with the clutch hydraulics first, inspect the MC, SC and clean/flush the line(s) and replace oil seals as required. Fluid looks clean through the sight glass.
Then, should clutch still slip, I'll have to get into the meat and potatoes - open the front of the engine to access the frictions/steels (which were supposedly replaced). From what I can see in Partzilla's exploded view, the frictions are of 3 different part numbers with specific locations/order within the clutch basket and I hope that's what's installed.
More to come on this one.
Then, should clutch still slip, I'll have to get into the meat and potatoes - open the front of the engine to access the frictions/steels (which were supposedly replaced). From what I can see in Partzilla's exploded view, the frictions are of 3 different part numbers with specific locations/order within the clutch basket and I hope that's what's installed.
More to come on this one.
So, yesterday I removed the clutch MC cover for a peek inside and this is what I found:
Rust sludge? Never seen this much deposits - fluid seems to have been changed but the reservoir was never cleaned.
Another pic after sucking all that junk out:
And finally, after cleaning:
Problem is that I get nothing out of the return port when I pump the lever, so next is to clean the return. Also I can only imagine what's downstream from here, so next is to remove/clean the slave and flush the lines.
Along the same lines, what's going on in the braking system I wonder...
Rust sludge? Never seen this much deposits - fluid seems to have been changed but the reservoir was never cleaned.
Another pic after sucking all that junk out:
And finally, after cleaning:
Problem is that I get nothing out of the return port when I pump the lever, so next is to clean the return. Also I can only imagine what's downstream from here, so next is to remove/clean the slave and flush the lines.
Along the same lines, what's going on in the braking system I wonder...
If needed.. hopefully not,
Article [13] - ST1300 - Clutch Replacement | ST1300 Articles
Disassembly: So rip off the tupperware and the front wheel/fender. That just makes it easier to work in there. The drain and remove the radiator. Be careful with the hoses to not damage them but you want to get them out of the way to pull the cover and while you're doing the clean up work...
That's pretty typical... I would always flush the clutch fluid yearly since it was so easy to do compared to the brakes.
So finally I got the bike in "service mode", below, during which several things have surfaced (not good things).
I started with the air intake, fearful that I would find some live animal in there, however the only bad thing while removing the top cover of the airbox was the missing screws at the back of the cover, which later I found laying on the rubber sheet below the throttle body (positive). K&N washable filter, dirty as hell, now washed and clean. While in there I removed the cruise actuator as well.
Having a hard time raising the fuel tank due to some interference with the handlebar raisers, I removed the central plate in between the raisers to find the yellow screw (normally covered by the central plate) on the right handlebar only half way in... I guess I'll retorque all the screws in that area at reassembly.
Since my target was to get to the clutch SC - not very serviceable due to location - and also wanting to inspect the swingarm bearings, I fiddled for a while with removing the O2 sensor wires, loosening the brake lines/ABS sensor, etc, on top of the swingarm, and finally got the swingarm out.
Before that, I found out that bike came with a Hagon rear monoshock, which unfortunately had the preload line severed, due to rubbing against the rear tire??? Anyone should have info on getting a replacement line please advise (thanks in advance!!).
Back to the swingarm, removed the bearings noticing that the outer races have mar marks on them from where the rollers were and the inner race is frozen to the rollers on both sides, new bearings required. Any ideas on removing the outer races from swingarm please advise. Next bearing to check will be the needle bearing for the shock.
Rear brake caliper - pin boots have tears and need replacing, unsure about the piston seals which will determine at time of rebuild.
Brake fluid in the MC reservoir looked the same as clutch (neglected, with rust deposits at the bottom).
Finally got to removing the clutch SC, condition as below (not surprising with the general maintenance condition of the bike which became apparent more and more as I was removing things):
The mating location on the engine is similar:
At this point I returned to cleaning the return port in the clutch MC - which prevented riding the bike home - my usual copper wire method did not work, needed a fine sewing needle which got the job done, see black specs that came out of the port - now, when pulling/releasing the lever I can see the flow coming out of that return port. I flushed the clutch lines with fresh brake fluid and lots of rust came out, also the SC was full of rust sludge.
Time to order some parts.
I started with the air intake, fearful that I would find some live animal in there, however the only bad thing while removing the top cover of the airbox was the missing screws at the back of the cover, which later I found laying on the rubber sheet below the throttle body (positive). K&N washable filter, dirty as hell, now washed and clean. While in there I removed the cruise actuator as well.
Having a hard time raising the fuel tank due to some interference with the handlebar raisers, I removed the central plate in between the raisers to find the yellow screw (normally covered by the central plate) on the right handlebar only half way in... I guess I'll retorque all the screws in that area at reassembly.
Since my target was to get to the clutch SC - not very serviceable due to location - and also wanting to inspect the swingarm bearings, I fiddled for a while with removing the O2 sensor wires, loosening the brake lines/ABS sensor, etc, on top of the swingarm, and finally got the swingarm out.
Before that, I found out that bike came with a Hagon rear monoshock, which unfortunately had the preload line severed, due to rubbing against the rear tire??? Anyone should have info on getting a replacement line please advise (thanks in advance!!).
Back to the swingarm, removed the bearings noticing that the outer races have mar marks on them from where the rollers were and the inner race is frozen to the rollers on both sides, new bearings required. Any ideas on removing the outer races from swingarm please advise. Next bearing to check will be the needle bearing for the shock.
Rear brake caliper - pin boots have tears and need replacing, unsure about the piston seals which will determine at time of rebuild.
Brake fluid in the MC reservoir looked the same as clutch (neglected, with rust deposits at the bottom).
Finally got to removing the clutch SC, condition as below (not surprising with the general maintenance condition of the bike which became apparent more and more as I was removing things):
The mating location on the engine is similar:
At this point I returned to cleaning the return port in the clutch MC - which prevented riding the bike home - my usual copper wire method did not work, needed a fine sewing needle which got the job done, see black specs that came out of the port - now, when pulling/releasing the lever I can see the flow coming out of that return port. I flushed the clutch lines with fresh brake fluid and lots of rust came out, also the SC was full of rust sludge.
Time to order some parts.
Sadlsor
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- 2008 ST1300A
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- 9065
That's some serious neglect that's been going on for a while.
Looks like you're on top of it though.
As you might imagine, none of this is out of the ordinary, not for any bike left unattended for a number of years.
Looks like you're on top of it though.
As you might imagine, none of this is out of the ordinary, not for any bike left unattended for a number of years.
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- 003726
That’s not sludge…..this is sludge!
Dealer maintained bike, serviced at the dealership for sale, ready to ride across country
Attachments
The seat adjuster mech (to which the tank attaches) is removed, even with sliding the tank back (as much as the hardened main fuel hose allows) I would still have minimal space between tank and controls when raising tank up. Much easier now (and useful to me as I discovered the untorqued screw for the right handlebar).
BTW, I have all the cruise control components off the bike, anytime you come up give me a shout. Will do the same should I be coming to Columbus.
That's the reason why I do my own work... they charge a lot and their work suc@s.
Perfect! Let me know what I owe you; I may be crossing to Ontario at Detroit Sunday early morning and in reverse in the afternoon.
Question to the forum, relative to the swingarm/rear monoshock/needle bearing... anyone noticed a small radial play between the bushing that goes into the needle bearing (and the bottom fork of the shock attaches to), I would not think there should be play there... guessing there will be clunks going over road bumps. Can't really see any wear on the bushing, funny with the needle bearing that the needles go slightly crooked if you turn from either side (but I don't see a bearing cage that will keep needles straight).
If you email them I'm sure you can get parts.2002 – 2013 – Hagon Shocks
hagon-shocks.co.uk
I corresponded with them, they're saying I can't replace the line and refill the adjuster on my own and need to send the shock to them (in England). That sounds like a bunch of crap to me, unless I'm missing something. I'll just get a replacement line and some oil (jack oil??? seems to be the choice, I'd have thought it'll be fork oil) and refill per forum's procedure. Someone please chime in if I'm in the weeds.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Be damned if I would send it to them. If they were close by and the repair was reasonable sure, but the shipping to/from England makes it financially not viable in my opinion.
I would take it to a shop that makes made-to-measure hydraulic hoses and get a replacement hose made. Then I would bleed and refill it just like any other preload adjuster.
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You're a while away from this yet - but I'll post it while I remember. You may find it useful. There is s useful post for taking a fairing off and identifying the nuts and bolts so that you can put them all back together again. I provide a link to that.
My post is different - it tells you how to replace the fairing and how to identify which bolt goes where just by looking at it - download the pdf in Post#1. It is written for a UK ST1300A9 model. There are some minor differences with some earlier bikes. You will know.
www.st-owners.com
My post is different - it tells you how to replace the fairing and how to identify which bolt goes where just by looking at it - download the pdf in Post#1. It is written for a UK ST1300A9 model. There are some minor differences with some earlier bikes. You will know.
Article [13] - ST1300 - Maintenance - Fairing Installation | ST1300 Articles
A set of notes about putting the fairing back onto the ST1300. It covers most of the fitting gotchas, which might otherwise catch you out and/or result in broken tags. Also lists all of the fasteners - photos, description,, part numbers, where they fit and why it matters. Very useful for...
You can re-fill it just like the OEM Honda shock, which Honda, Penske, Progressive, and everyone else will tell you ONLY they can do it
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Filling the fluid line for the rear shock is relatively easy. Theres a thread on here somewhere. I bought a brand new Honda replacement and it came with (about) 10 clicks of free space before it started to move the preload - so my very first job was to refill that. It is impossible for me to get it so that there is no air at all in there, but if you fill the lines up, move the piston a few times and bolt the banjo bolt with fluid flowing out as you tighten - well I got it to just two clicks. Standard OEM is 7 clicks.
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