2 temp. bars is OK?

Replacing your stat is not a big deal. Pull the fairing - front pieces around the forks and the lower and middle cowls on both sides. Drain the system - pull one of the big hoses off the radiator over a VERY LARGE funnel to catch most of your old aunt freeze. Thank you Larry for your suggestion to cut the bottom off an old plastic gallon jug (apple cider, milk, etc.). Regardless of what precautions you take, you will lubricate the floor with anti freeze, so it makes sense to spread newspapers around before you start. Remove the radiator - disconnect the fan wires at their connectors with a v. small screw driver, remove the radiator mounting bolts, and tilt it forward at the bottom in order to slip it off the hangers at the top. Almost there now. Remove the frame cross brace and you have access to the thermostat housing. I found it much much easier to do all this after removing the front wheel, but I think it is possible to do this work w/o pulling the wheel and servicing the front calipers. Your new stat goes in w/ the tiny hole at 12 o,clock. New o ring can be held in place w a dab or two of silcone paste/grease. Shop around for Honda Type 2 coolant at their auto dealerships. I found prices ranging from $20 to $30 a gallon.

Good Luck!
 
SMSW said:
Replacing your stat is not a big deal. Pull the fairing - front pieces around the forks and the lower and middle cowls on both sides. Drain the system - pull one of the big hoses off the radiator over a VERY LARGE funnel to catch most of your old aunt freeze. Thank you Larry for your suggestion to cut the bottom off an old plastic gallon jug (apple cider, milk, etc.). Regardless of what precautions you take, you will lubricate the floor with anti freeze, so it makes sense to spread newspapers around before you start. Remove the radiator - disconnect the fan wires at their connectors with a v. small screw driver, remove the radiator mounting bolts, and tilt it forward at the bottom in order to slip it off the hangers at the top. Almost there now. Remove the frame cross brace and you have access to the thermostat housing. I found it much much easier to do all this after removing the front wheel, but I think it is possible to do this work w/o pulling the wheel and servicing the front calipers. Your new stat goes in w/ the tiny hole at 12 o,clock. New o ring can be held in place w a dab or two of silcone paste/grease. Shop around for Honda Type 2 coolant at their auto dealerships. I found prices ranging from $20 to $30 a gallon.

Good Luck!
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SMSW, Thanks a lot for your help. P.B.
 
If you siphon out the radiator before pulling the lower hose off you may not spill a drop of coolant on the floor.

I have a pdf tutorial on replacing the thermostat. Step by step with pictures. PM me an email address if you want a copy.
 
BakerBoy said:
Likely yes, but...
Is the sender (item 22) in coolant (vs. air)?
Is the coolant moving properly (vs. being stalled and overheating locally)?
The temperature displayed on the dash is simply the temperature measured by the sender where it is installed, and totally dependent on coolant moving and the sender being fully immersed.

Key point is the OP likely needs to change the thermostat, but it doesn't hurt (is actually beneficial) to ensure no air trapped in coolant passages.
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All good and valid points. Thank you.
 
As mentioned, don't forget the weep hole is at top !
as for antifreeze, Prestone NON silicates works fine and doesn't cost much
 
Fawlty said:
Thanks caldercay. If the spring can't trip open would the Tstat stick open or closed?
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As the spring compresses, the valve opens. So if the spring can't compress (maybe because water is not surrounding the spring), then the valve will remain shut.

One way we can test a thermostat is to fill a pot with water, high enough so the thermostat is submerged. Turn up the heat and when you witness the valve open, use a temp gauge to check at what temperature the valve opens - compare the value to its rating.
 
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Purchased an '06 with 40,000 miles a few weeks ago. First thing I had to do was replace the thermostat. Put fresh Honda coolant in and have had nothing but 3 bars on my temp gauge with temperatures from 39-72F. I went with the information supplied by other riders until I could get a repair manual. I had no problem. This is a great place for detailed advice and information!!!
 
I tested the old thermostat on my 04 , after pulling same ( at 25k miles ). It worked find in the boiling water but was sticking when installed...
What I and some others noticed was some black particles on the stat and in the overflow bottle that looks like paint overspray flakes. ( or from rad ?? )
After the change over, no issues since and the overflow bottle has stayed clean.
 
I did notice a few flakes or particles around inside the thermostat housing as well. Radiator looked clean from what I could tell and nothing came out of it when I rinsed the inside out. My overflow bottle was a complete muddy looking mess. Took over an hour to get it clean. So far so good. I am keeping an eye on my overflow bottle and am seeing no change in the level.
 
dduelin said:
If you siphon out the radiator before pulling the lower hose off you may not spill a drop of coolant on the floor.

I have a pdf tutorial on replacing the thermostat. Step by step with pictures. PM me an email address if you want a copy.
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Hello dduelin, I recently purchased a 2006 ST1300, and I am a new member. I'm seeing two and even one bar on the temp gauge. I'm guessing that I need a new thermostat. If you could email the thermostat tutorial, that would be great! Thank you. I'm w8maker (Ken Rosenfeld) email: krglass65@gmail.com Thanks again
 
w8maker said:
Hello dduelin, I recently purchased a 2006 ST1300, and I am a new member. I'm seeing two and even one bar on the temp gauge. I'm guessing that I need a new thermostat. If you could email the thermostat tutorial, that would be great! Thank you. I'm w8maker (Ken Rosenfeld) email: krglass65@gmail.com Thanks again
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No worries, Ken. it's on it's way to you along with the coolant flush tutorial.
 
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