Vacuum tools to do brake bleeds, what actually works?

Tazmool

Joined
Oct 14, 2008
Messages
49
Location
Canada
Greetings,

I have bled my ST1300ABS brakes and clutch last season, it was not fun, and took a while but I got it done the old pump the levers and open bleeders way.

In the past I have tried the small hand pump type bleeders:
l_P802041.jpg

With little or no success, the reservoir was far too small, the vacuum was too little to actually pull much brake fluid from the system, especially on the ST1300A, and when trying to bleed the longer hoses, I think I got practically no fluid coming out. I ended up bleeding the clutch and brakes manually.

I have been wondering if any of you guys have successfully used vacuum bleed systems on the ST13-abs?

The shop manual refers to a larger vacuum bleeder system, similar to this:
vacuum_brake_bleeder.jpg


Has anyone used these on the ST successfully?
How long did it take for a complete system flush? was there a marked improvement in the brake performance?

To be honest, I have never had much issues bleeding brakes on any vehicle be it a 4 wheel type or any of my motorcycles, however my ST has resisted my attempts in the past (I bled the whole system twice before I was finally satisfied 'w the brakes)

So I have thought about getting one of the larger vacuum systems.

Also, I'm seeing two major brands that people mention, the MityVac and the much more expensive Vacula system, is there much if any difference between the two?

I have also come across a snap-on version, which seems to be a re-labelled Valcula bleeder.

Any and all help welcome.

Tazmool
 
I've tried a vacum system also and was unhappy with the results.

The only thing that's worked so far for me has been one of those simple and inexpensive bleeder one way valves.

It's basically the same as manual bleeding but one person can do it.

regards,
Posted via Mobile Device
 
I have the same hand operated MityVac pump in the upper picture. I have used it 7 times to bleed the hydraulic system of my ST. Tips that work for me - teflon tape wrap the bleeders the first time to eliminate sucking air in at the bleeders. You will not have to do it again. I pump the brake pedal 7 to 10 strokes to help it when bleeding the proportioning valve and the longer circuits that get fluid from the rear master cylinder. After 10 strokes I check the reservoir and maybe add fluid to keep from sucking it dry. I use a three foot long piece of 1 x 2 that I can press on the rear pedal while standing by to close the bleeders on the left side. Always remove and tilt the left front caliper to bleed the secondary master cylinder. One good bubble in there makes your efforts all for naught and the rear pedal will be soft and "drop" when using and releasing the hand lever when the rear pedal is depressed. I agree it is the most difficult vehicle I have ever bled. The rewards are good hard brakes. Loss of crispness to the levers creeps up, I notice the difference each time I do it.
 
I made my own brake bleeder from a mason jar, some clear tubing and a few fittings. Hook the open end to the bleeder screw, blow air thru the open ends of the tee. Venturi effect pulls a vacuum on the jar and pulls the fluid thru the lines. I've used it three times and it works great. +1 on the teflon tape on the bleeder screws to prevent sucking air in thru them.

2790819886_c237bb964d.jpg
 
I've used the small hand pump without a problem... Yes, a +2 on teflon tape on the bleeders.
Or at least just know that the tiny bubbles coiming out are pull through the threads not the system.

On the other hand, a long tube, jar, and a broom handle will work too. The KISS principle does work on the ST
 
not much luck on the vac pump for me, pumped it myself and made sure the tube off the bleeders fit nice and tight,definately do the teflon tape thingy
 
I also had problems with the Mighty Vac until I used a heavy grease to form a seal around the lip of the reservoir and the cap. With out the grease, the vacuum pump did not seem to have enough pull to suction the fluid through the system, when the actual problem was leakage around the reservoir cap. It messy but it works.

Don
 
I haven't attempted to bleed my brakes yet, but I used a MityVac to bleed my clutch hydraulics and had a problem with it. I didn't have much luck getting fluid through the system into the "catch" bottle, and discovered the tubing had collapsed, effectively sealing off the vacuum. I eventually got the system bled satisfactorily, and concluded that the problem was most likely my own fault, probably attempting to "pump up" too much vacuum before loosening the bleeder valve. When I attempt to bleed the brake system, I'm planning to see if a less "aggressive" approach might work better. It seemed to me that the plastic tubing in the MityVac kit collapses much too easily.

Don B.
 
I bought four SpeedBleeders from Napa Auto Parts store yesterday to fit my standard 99 ST1100. They came 2 to a pack for $11.29 a pack.
 
Harbor Freight sells a vacuum bleeder with a metal pump that works great, and priced economically. Harbor Freight's quality of tools has vastly improved from when they first started importing.
 
STreaker said:
Is there a Autozone corresponding number for the 1300?
Click to expand...

Hi Jon,

Sorry I missed your post. I don't know the size needed for the 1300. The more experienced guys on here will be able to tell us if they are the same as the 1100. The thread size for the 1100 is 8mm x 1.25. The overall length of the SpeedBleeders that I got is 28mm. This is the SpeedBleeder with the longer nipple (will make attaching a hose easier).

The SpeedBleeder web site shows two units that fit the 1100: sb8125 & sb8125L
which stands for 8mm x 1.25
The sb8125 is the one that has the same nipple length as the OEM and of course the sb8125L has the longer nipple.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/
http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm

I stopped by an O'Reilly Auto Parts store first to see if they could order the correct size for me (I knew they carried SpeedBleeders for cars). The parts guy looked in a "Motormite" parts catalog for the part # (12705) and called his supplier but his supplier did not carry it.

So the parts guy called Napa and gave them the Motormite part# and they had them and had them in stock. The Napa part # is 675-1569. It was nice of the O'Reilly guy to go to the trouble since it was nothing in his pocket.

I know Autozone carries SpeedBleeders, but I don't know if they can get the sizes we need. I didn't ask there because I don't speak the foreign language most of their employees here in Texas speak, and I can't understand their English. It's just too much trouble to ask for anything out of the ordinary.

Anybody else out there know?

Edit to add info:
When I was surfing the Technical sub-forum "Brakes", I came across a post by Carl, "st1300r":
From speedbleeders email
-----------------------------
You would have to check your calipers. Tokico calipers take SB7100s, Nissin calipers take SB8125L. Check front and rear some bikes have both calipers.


Also Jeff Bertrand, "wjbertrand" posted, "I think they work great but to fit the ST1300 or a later model linked brake ST1100ABS, you'll need a whole bunch of them. Let's see, 2 for each caliper, one for the delay valve, another for the clutch....that's 8 of them by my count!

I bought this instead:

http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1...X_BB1&tier2=14

and it worked great.

(It's a MOTRAX Brake Bleeder (#54533) which is a check valve that can be swapped from one bleeder valve to the next.)
 
A handheld vacuum bleeder with a built on pressure gauge works great. I believe it is a mighty vac version that I purchased on Amazon.com for about $50 with a plastic carrying case. The pressure gauge helps you ensure you have an airtight seal before opening the bleed valve. Once you have an airtight seal, there is no need to pump the bleeder anymore. I also found that the front brake top bleeder fittings need a little teflon tape around the threads to get a good seal.

Speedbleeders are good as an assist to ensure no air gets into the system when vacuum bleeding. Speedbleeders are NOT a substitute for a vacuum bleed especially with the linked braking system. If you don't follow the Service Manual proceedures there is an excellent chance that you won't completely bleed the linked braking system of all the old fluids. Old fluid breaks down and you want to ensure it is completely out of the system.

YMMV.
 
STreaker said:
Harbor Freight sells a vacuum bleeder with a metal pump that works great, and priced economically. Harbor Freight's quality of tools has vastly improved from when they first started importing.
Click to expand...


Is this the one you are talking about? Link

92474.gif


I am getting close to having to do mine and looking for the best method.
 
I used the hand pump in the 1st picture with no problems. I did front and rear brakes (non-ABS, 6 bleeders), and the clutch. After finishing with each bleeder, I emptied the small cup, and moved to the next bleeder. I thought it all went very well.
 
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