U-haul trailer transport

[1morebike]

Hello all,

I'm picking up a rather forlorn '98 ST this weekend. I reserved a U-haul motorcycle trailer with ample tie down points and front wheel chock. I'm uncertain about properly securing the bike and don't want to find out the hard way that I didn't do it right. I've been reading some threads here with photos showing ties going up inside the fairing with the fork, just not sure of the best way to route my ratchet straps through.

I was thinking of routing behind the 1/2" tubes on each side and in the middle/front of the head tube (fairing/radiator supports?) then having the straps cross before attaching to the anchor points of the trailer. Or should I just wrap around the fork tubes ? I'm trying to articulate as best I can what I'm trying to do. This bike is much more challenging to secure than the old GS550 I used to have. Not the best photos attached, but you folks that have done it before might see what I'm thinking. I'll be traveling about 80 miles one way and will take the byways, with no intention to go much more than 55 mph (That is not the strap I'll be using BTW)

 

[dduelin]

I would just go around each fork tube above the lower clamp and don’t cross the straps. The trailer will have D rings in the front lower corners. Pop off the tip-over protector covers and loop around them down and back aft to get 4 good tie points.

 

[Larry Fine]

When I tie down my 1100s, I pass each strap up behind the headlight, in front of each fork tube, then between them, then behind each one, then hook each one onto the very bottom of the handlebar.

I make sure no cables or hoses get pinched between a strap or hook and the bike. As long as your trailer anchor points are not spread real far apart, there shouldn't be undue stress on the body parts.

 

[GitSum]

Soft loop tie-downs really come in handy. As mentioned, remove the tip over covers and make use of those additional locations

 

[Sadlsor]

I agree, I use some versions of soft ties on those rare occasions I have to trailer any bike.

 

[kiltman]

The U-haul has 4 D rings, one in each corner of the trailer. If you use the loops, highly recommended, place a loop around the fork just above the lower fork tree. Roll the bike into the chock, deploy the side stand. Fasten a ratchet strap to the loops on the fork, tighten till the bike is cantered upright, then put the side stand up. The bike is secure for travelling. However you may want to secure the bike in the rear.
You may want to take the rear panniers off. Remove the seat, use the loops by wrapping a loop around the frame replace the seat. Attach the ratchet strap to each loop and rear tie down ring on the trailer, keeping the bike centre.
No need to take off the tip over covers. With the bike in the chock 4 straps are ample.
Make sure the side stand is up!

 

[Skunkape]

Just don't do this.

 

[SMSW]

The U-haul trailer I used had a Vee in the front - no real chock. I put the bike on the side stand and tied the front wheel to the front rail above the Vee. Took off the plastic tip over guards and used a ratchet strap on the pipe under the plastic to a D ring. Since the deck is metal, it is slippery, so I ran a rope from one D ring around the rear wheel(at floor level) twice and then over to the opposite D ring. This prevents lateral shifting. I think I had two straps on each tip over guard, one leading forward and one leading aft.

Drive a few miles and check all lashings. There was a thread that said many guys have had ratchet straps loosen. Last month I picked up an NC750 for a 200 mile trip home and checked every 40 to 60 miles depending on rest stop availability. Yes, some of them did loosen.

I'd worry about the straps over the front fender. Chafe might abrade the finish over the course of your trip.

Probably overkill. Better safe than sorry.

 

[rjs987]

I've used the U-Haul mc trailer and transported a few bikes with it. You really only need 4 straps. Any more than that is just extra. 4 straps is plenty to secure a bike. That "V" in front IS the chock and as long as the front tire is pulled firmly into that the bike will not tip over. I do run a strap from the left fork tube above the lower triple tree down to the RIGHT front D ring and a strap from the right fork tube above the lower triple tree down to the LEFT front D ring. That is all that is needed to keep the bike firmly into the chock. I tighten the straps enough to compress the forks about half way at least. Normally the straps will not touch any plastic doing this depending how you route them (in front of or behind the lower triple tree). The only remaining thing to do is to prevent the rear end from walking around side to side. I just tie 2 straps around the rear wheel or lower rear shock mounts (on a bike that has a shock on each side) out to the rear D rings on each side and tighten so the rear will not move side to side. For an ST both the front and rear D rings will be positioned so the tightened straps will always pull the bike into the front wheel chock firmly. The bike will not move doing just this. The rear of the bike will bounce a bit but the front will not if the front straps are tight enough. I have never needed more straps than this even pulling over rough roads.

My current ride prevents me from using all of the above on the front forks without removing a significant amount of plastic. But the forks have some mounting tabs or studs molded in to allow wrapping the straps around the fork tube just at the top of the wheel and running the straps out to the same side D rings. That was still more than enough to make it solid without compressing the suspension the two times I put that bike on a U-Haul trailer going to and coming back from the dealer for warranty service (I had to leave it for a few days or I would have just ridden the bike there and back). There is really no need to have any straps up high as long as they are above the COG even just a little. My current bike COG is nearly even with the axles. The ST COG is somewhere close to the top of the wheels.

DO NOT tie the handle bars. I have other friends on other forums who tried that and ended up replacing the handlebars as a result. I know... second hand reports.... but with pics of the damage on their bikes. Handle bars/grips and passenger handles were not designed to hold the full weight of the bike but of the riders. It won't matter if the road is smooth enough to not spill a glass of water sitting on the trailer but hit any significant bumps and lots of unexpected things happen.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Because the trailer has a front wheel chock, that immobilizes the front wheel and keeps the motorcycle upright, makes it easy.

- Remove the tip-over bar cover from the left side. The right side has a loop that is accessible without removing the cover.
- One strap from each tip-over bar to the front lower corners of the trailer. This keeps it from moving back out of the chock. Firmly locked in to the chock holds it upright but these straps also provide some resistance to leaning.
- One strap from each tip-over bar out perpendicular, or slightly forward but not rearward if at all possible, to a low down attachment point on the trailer. Most of the time there is a side-rail post or something to attach to if there are no actual attachment points. This prevents lateral movement, prevents leaning, and is a redundancy for the front two straps if they are pulling slightly forward.
- Two straps from one rear lower corner of the trailer wrapped around the rear wheel and on to the other rear lower corner of the trailer. Protect the wheel surface and the straps from each other with an old towel or something of your choice. Besides damaging the paint on the wheel, the straps can be damaged by the raised ribs of the wheel. These straps prevent lateral movement of the motorcycle so that it can't dance around and it keeps the rear wheel planted on the floor of the trailer where it belongs. Many people will only use one strap for this purpose. I always have a redundancy and never rely on just one strap.

No bodywork, no seat, no panniers, or anything else to remove. No scuffed paint anywhere due to rubbing straps, no damaged cables/hoses due to straps, no damaged fork dust seals.
In my opinion many people get carried away strapping down motorcycles and over-compress the suspension for no reason to the point where it can't work at all. This way the motorcycle is still free to move on its suspension but so what, that is what it is supposed to do. Because the straps are more horizontal than vertical the movement on the suspension won't loosen them beyond the initial amount that straps always loosen until they stretch and find their happy final resting place. Usually one second tightening a few miles after the initial set-up is all that is needed. Using ratchet straps that loop back to themselves is preferable to the type that have hooks on the ends. The loop means that no matter what happens the straps can not become disconnected from their attachment points like the hooks can.

 

[MidLife]

Usually one second tightening a few miles after the initial set-up is all that is needed.

Periodic checks in general are good. And carrying spare straps.

Most of the wear on my straps is from the ends getting loose and flapping. Something like that can help:

No-Flap Strap Clip

Keep those straps wrangled. Simple.Pack of six. Made of resilient Nylon and sized for 1-inch strap webbing. Add to any duffle or backpack with standard 1-inch webbing to manage excess straps from flapping in the wind.

uniongaragenyc.com

 

[Larry Fine]

I do run a strap from the left fork tube above the lower triple tree down to the RIGHT front D ring and a strap from the right fork tube above the lower triple tree down to the LEFT front D ring.

I'll have to try that. I'm rebuilding my trailer right now.

The rear of the bike will bounce a bit but the front will not if the front straps are tight enough.

I push the bike side to side to test for tight-enough-ness.

DO NOT tie the handle bars. I have other friends on other forums who tried that and ended up replacing the handlebars as a result. I know... second hand reports.... but with pics of the damage on their bikes.

I meant I hook on right next to the handlebar clamps, not at the bar ends.

I have been doing it for well over 50 years, and I never bent a handlebar.

 

[1morebike]

Thanks so much all. Going shopping for some new straps/tie downs. Really like those Rhino ones. I'll report back on how things went, probably share some findings on my new to me bike.

And to Mr. Larry Fine... I found a picture of your 4 banger Accord at a cabin with your trailer all loaded ! Good to know it does well pulling your ST. I have a 2.3 automatic Ranger I'll be using I was a little worried about. Crazy because I have an old F150 with the strong 300 inline 6 but no hitch.

Again, thanks a million all !

 

[Larry Fine]

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Periodic checks in general are good.

When I stated that a second tightening is usually all that is needed it was not to infer that no further checks are required, simply that additional re-tightening usually is not. Regular checking of anything strapped down in a moving vehicle, including the straps, is always a required part of transporting anything that has been strapped in to place.

Most of the wear on my straps is from the ends getting loose and flapping.

I always bring a bunch of tie-wraps with me. I fold the loose end of the strap up and secure it to the tensioned part of the strap using one tie-wrap at each end of the folds. This keeps it in a safe place away from everything else and, unless a person bought really cheap dollar store tie-wraps, it isn't getting loose no matter what.

Note: If doing this, don't forget to bring a pair of side cutters to cut them off.

 

[Larry Fine]

When I snug up the straps, I make sure the handlebars are parallel with the top of the rear window.

If anything moves, it will be immediately apparent in the rear-view mirror.

 

[rjs987]

I don't bother with buying anything extra and just tie the loose ends around the tensioned part of the straps until there is nothing to flap.

 

[1morebike]

Great trip, and I'll will agree with all the positive feedback I read about the U-Haul trailer. With that front wheel chock, you can easily get away with using one strap per side to keep forward force against it. Still just $16, I paid an additional $8 for insurance and had 22 hours. I took off my tip over covers late last night and experimented on my '96.

I ended up using a car ramp to reduce the pitch of the trailer ramp. Fortunately, Elizabeth got the bike running before I arrived so I didn't need to heave-ho it on. I only used the the tip over bars to anchor the front and once the bike was even, I placed a chock at the rear, then wrapped the wheel again forcing forward. After about 10 miles and several RR grade crossings I pulled over to check tension. Lost tension was negligible and actually helped, in that the bike pushed back against the rear chock, wedging both front and back tires taut in the chocks. Kept an occasional eye on alignment of the ST headlamp's horizontal line with my rear view mirror frame, then pulled off to physically check tension after another 30 miles. 97 miles on state routes, kept speed around 57 mph.

Son of a gun, my red bike is far nicer, but my "parts bike" runs way better. Didn't realize how bad my carbs have become ! I'll save those observations for another thread. Time to ride...

Best regards to all !

 

[1morebike]

BTW, a low profile ramp like this to place beneath the trailer ramp may be a necessity to load an ST1100. I did not try it without don't think I'd want to.

 

[GitSum]

Congrats. I recently loaded a 1300 on a U-haul motorcycle trailer without any issues. They are very low to the ground and the standard ramp seemed more than adequate. I did the same thing with the rental. It was so cheap I added the extra insurance which I normally would not do.

The only negative to the U-Haul Motorcycle Trailer in my opinion, and is is very minor, - is when running empty they make a heck of a lot of noise clanking around. No doubt I would rent one again if I need to