Time To Pull The Pump (again)

Big_Jim59

Site Supporter
Joined
Jul 20, 2024
Messages
187
Age
64
Location
Sherman, Texas
Bike
2006 ST-1300
Yep, it's that time to get the fuel pump back out and deal with blinking fuel gauge. The thermistor I ordered as a replacement (it was a Honda item) was wrong. I have the chip, from the inside of the old unit, and in hind sight I am sure it would have worked fine except that the housing was deteriorated badly. The values can be measured by attaching an Ohmmeter and then spraying the chip with carb cleaner and watching the resistance value rise. I ordered the correct value thermistors and and they operate in the desired range. I will open the replacement unit and use the information from this site to swap it out.

In lead up to this job I manage to empty the top fuel tank naturally by putting 190 miles on it. I have now emptied the lower tank with a siphon through the return fuel line port. Tomorrow the pump comes out. I am really freaky about petrol in the garage.

After this I hope to fix the #9 error code. I plan on pulling the windshield and front fairing cover to check the continuity of the wiring from the air box sensor. (yes I checked and made sure it was plugged in the last time I was in there.) I hate that red IF warning light that's on all the time.

I may be wrong but I guess it's running a generic map, because of the air sensor fault, and it has effected the fuel mileage. It also pops and farts on over run like it's a bit rich.
 
Sounds like someone should call the white courtesy phone tomorrow before he starts ripping stuff apart.
You are over thinking this repair.
:WCP1:
If the unit was stock and if the unit was not damaged previously and if the thermistor had not been replaced with an item of unknown value I might agree, As it stands I need to run some tests.
 
I went out today and measured the resistance value of the thermistor with the tank empty. The value = 1.1 Ohms. Then I poured the two gallons back into the tank and measured the resistance value again and it still showed 1.1 Ohms. That's not good. The thermistor that came out of the bike tests at 2.0 Ohms when it's wet so it has to come out.
 
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