Throttle Body Removal/Stop Set Screw Question

[Camrysandcoffee]

Happy Friday! I am posting this because as I was adjusting the idle on my ST1300 yesterday the idle adjustment cable/stop set cable broke off. I was able to source a replacement cable but I am unsure how to best proceed with installing it. I was hoping that I could lift the throttle body to get enough clearance to re-install it without removing the part entirely. I was able to loosen the four clamps that hold the throttle body to the engine, but the throttle body still seems to be stuck tight so I am not sure if I am missing another fastener. I am also unsure if the throttle body will need to be completely removed anyways to install the new idle adjuster. Any insights would be appreciated.

 

[woodybelle]

The cable screws into the base of the wax valve assembly. If you can still get a hold of the cable enough to turn it maybe you can back it all the way out and screw the new one in. I have attached a photo of the cable and the wax valve. If you have to remove the throttle bodies there are many threads discussing this. I just removed mine using a 2x4 across the frame, 2 carefully placed nylon strap loops and 2 6" C clamps along with PB Blaster, an air nozzle and heat. Avoid this if you can.

 

[Igofar]

You can easily replace the cable without having to remove the throttle body assembly.
As Jerry pointed out, avoid removing the TB assembly if at all possible.
Not only will you risk damage, prying it off, but you should also replace all the boots with new to avoid air leaks.
And, if that was not enough, you don't just tighten the hose clamps down on the boots, each one has a measurement across the flats on the bands that they must be measured and tightened to.
If you tighten them incorrectly, you'll have air leaks.
If you remove the air box base, and move the 5 way tee hoses and assembly out of the way, you should be able to guide it into place, then it just screws into the housing.
You do know that your not supposed to use the "knob" to make adjustments right? You should use your JIS screw driver to adjust it.

 

[Camrysandcoffee]

I'm pretty sure this isn't right. I was able to remove the old cable and install the new one, but the screw tightens up before the end of the rod that runs through the thermal valve touches the top of the plate. I will try to realign the screw portion of the cable.

EDIT: Well it seems that the threading for the SE thermal valve is damaged. I ended up taking it to a shop to have the throttle body removed and the thermal valve re-threaded to accept the stop screw. The bike is back to functional. Lesson learned, do not put too much force on the set screw.

 

[Arellcat]

You can easily replace the cable without having to remove the throttle body assembly.

You do know that your not supposed to use the "knob" to make adjustments right? You should use your JIS screw driver to adjust it.

I hope the first point is true, as my idle cable appears to be seized or something else is preventing adjustment. I've had the TBs off twice and don't care to have to do it again because of the force it requires.

Far be it for me to question received wisdom, but the second point is curious. The black plastic knob has a moulded hex inside, into which fits the screw head of the cable. There is no way to rotate the screw while not also rotating the plastic knob. My Haynes manual actually states to turn the knob, while the owner's manual states to use a screwdriver. They can't both be correct! Why would Honda not use a conventional Bowden cable arrangement for the idle cable? Either way, my bike is idling a bit too fast after I replaced the alternator and I've no idea why, because it was rock solid on 1000 rpm before.

 

[Sadlsor]

Following...

 

[Andrew Shadow]

My Haynes manual actually states to turn the knob, while the owner's manual states to use a screwdriver. They can't both be correct!

Turning via the knob or turning via the screw turns exactly the same part. The difference is that, due to age and exposure to engine heat, the plastic knob becomes brittle so turning the cable via the knob invites cracking of the knob. There is less chance of cracking anything by turning the cable using the screw as it applies force directly inline with the centre line of the cable.

Why would Honda not use a conventional Bowden cable arrangement for the idle cable?

To save $1.29 per unit would be my guess. Turning it requires rotating it against all of the various hoses, tubes, cables, parts, etc., that it passes over, under, and through between the knob holder and the throttle bodies. It should have been a Bowden cable, than none of what it comes in to contact with along its path would have an impact on its ability to rotate.