Stripped Oil Filler Plastic Bolt

Sportznut

Sportznut

Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Messages
348
Location
Washington
Bike
2005 ST1300
I have owned my 2005 for just a few days.

Decided to change the oil. I go to remove the oil fill cap/bolt, it turns easily. This is kind of a unique cap/bolt isn't it? Looking at the small hole where the bolt seats I wonder if the oil will flow well?

I go to put the bolt back in (by hand) and it goes in cockeyed. I try several times but it doesn't want to go in straight. I am not sure if this was a problem with the PO because he always had a shop do the work.

I try again, cockeyed. Decide to try to tighten it cockeyed. Won't tighten, just turns.

I just about give up. Then it goes in straight. Not sure what to do now. Any suggestions? I did a google search on the site to find out the oil drain plug is an even more likely bolt to strip but did not find anything regarding the oil fill bolt situation.

I decided to wait to change the oil until I get some feedback from some experienced ST1300 owners.

Thanks in advance.
 
Re: Stripped Oil Filler Bolt

It had a rubber washer.

Yeah you right, hoping it is just the bolt.

Thanks
 
Re: Stripped Oil Drain Bolt

Joe he's talking about the oil fill plug, not the oil drain.
 
Re: Stripped Oil Drain Bolt

Throttlejockey said:
Joe he's talking about the oil fill plug, not the oil drain.
Click to expand...

Doh... okay, it's early and just one cup of coffee so far... LOL

If it seats, it should be good then.
 
Re: Stripped Oil Drain Bolt

Your description is a bit confusing, Are you talking engine oil fill cap or engine oil drain bolt, ........or final drive fill cap or final drive drain bolt?
 
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I've found that black oil fill cap to be easily cross-threaded. If the current plug doesn't pull straight out with a gentle tug, you're ok until you get a new one in hand.


The part numbers you need are below (either o-ring is fitting):
Oil Filler Cap: 5611-MB0-000
plus
O-RING (21.5MM): 91301-250-000
or
O-RING (22X3.0): 91307-425-003

If you google the part numbers, you can find a place to order them. :)
 
Re: Stripped Oil Drain Bolt

Mellow said:
Doh... okay, it's early and just one cup of coffee so far... LOL

If it seats, it should be good then.
Click to expand...

Sometimes I have a hard time following threads in this forum. Sportznut is quoting a non-existant post and throttlejockey is responding to "Joe" who I can only assume is you, Mellow.

It would be nice if we could tell who was responding to whom even if they didn't reply with quote
 
If we're talking about the black plastic fill cap for engine oil you might try turning it backwards a little until the threads engage then tighten it.
At worst the threads are munged on the cap it wouldn't damage the aluminum threads.

OP yeah the oil drain is likely to fail over time is the drain bolt is over tightened into the aluminum oil pan.

ddemair,
LOL
The quote refered to the post Joe (guy that runs the assylum) aka Mellow deleted after his 2nd cup of coffee.
The quote is part of the other post so it doesn't get deleted when the original does.
.... errr I think, I haven't had any coffee yet ...
 
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ddemair said:
Sometimes I have a hard time following threads in this forum. Sportznut is quoting a non-existant post and throttlejockey is responding to "Joe" who I can only assume is you, Mellow.

It would be nice if we could tell who was responding to whom even if they didn't reply with quote
Click to expand...

st1300r said:
If we're talking about the black plastic fill cap for engine oil you might try turning it backwards a little until the threads engage then tighten it.
At worst the threads are munged on the cap it wouldn't damage the aluminum threads.

OP yeah the oil drain is likely to fail over time is the drain bolt is over tightened into the aluminum oil pan.

ddemair,
LOL
The quote refered to the post Joe (guy that runs the assylum) aka Mellow deleted after his 2nd cup of coffee.
The quote is part of the other post so it doesn't get deleted when the original does.
.... errr I think, I haven't had any coffee yet ...
Click to expand...

Yeah, sorry about that, I did remove my posts to keep this focused on the actual issue and then I renamed the thread title so it was the actual part being discussed. Hey, I'm not perfect but at least I'm consistent.. LOL
 
It's an Oil Filler CAP. With very big coarse threads - Never heard of anybody having trouble with it, or stripping it. Easy to start & doesn't take much torque. You should be able to look at it and tell if threads are bad = P. O. botch. Just get another 1. Threads in Valve cover should be good . Good Luck.
 
I always spin any threaded part backwards until you feel the threads drop into where they are cut to start.
 
OK guys....my bad. I made the mistake of reading the owners manual before my first oil change. The manual indicated the oil filler was the little chrome/silver hex head bolt. Which was erroneous but I did not realize that until I stripped it. The good news is after several tries I got it to screw in straight and I should not need to mess with it anymore.

Fortunately I found some good stuff online and was able to change my oil/filter without anymore issues. Man that plastic cover that goes over the filler cap is a pain to get back on......any suggestions to make it easier? I do love this bike. I have ridden it every late afternoon since I bought it last week. Can't wait to do a long trip.
 
Ah, so it was the valve cover screws you were messing with? Yeah, you gotta get those back in just right.

You can put some oil around the grommet on the cover that will help it pop back in place but it's simply a tight fit.. start with the forward part of it and push down, then back. Then, push down on the rear section and it should push into place.
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?8288-ST1300-Maintenance-Lid-Removal
 
Ah, yeah, the first post makes a bit more sense now. Here's a thread that shows the valve cover bolt you apparently removed Sportz? https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?121592-Broken-valve-cover-bolts

If so, make sure that one is not cross threaded and is not over torqued when you reinstall it, as those are easily broken off in the cyclinder head.
Proper torque for that valve cover bolt is: 10 N-m (7 ft-lb)
 
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