Stainless Steel Exhaust clamps?

Sircular

Joined
Aug 7, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Corby, Northamptonshire. UK
Hi peeps, I've read that the 1300 pan's exhaust clamps are prone to rot and to drop and cause a rear tyre blowout.
Anybody know if you can get stainless replacement clamps ? If so, could you post a link for them ? Thanks, kind regards, Sircular.
 
Ya may have to check them once or twice a year I suppose. If they're not too bad, maybe bead blast them and paint with high heat paint, but I'm sure that will not hold as well as the original.
 
Sircular said:
I've read that the 1300 pan's exhaust clamps are prone to rot and to drop and cause a rear tyre blowout.
Click to expand...

That's a new one on me (though I am comparatively new to the ST). Here's a post about Honda updating the OEM exhaust clamps (and gaskets) for the ST1300— Honda P/N 18372-MAT-0001.

Depending on the year of your ST (??) this may be a new and improved part for you and prevent you from dying a fiery death from a blowout.
 
Husoi said:
Their looks good but at £9 each clamp plus £4.50 postage they are a bit pricey, pipewerx have the exact same at £2.80 and free postage.
Just got my ones delivered and the order was placed Wed at 21:30, can't fault these guys service..
Click to expand...

Not £9 each - £9 for all 3.

[edit]

Hard to say if they are exactly the same clamp. But paying a little extra is worth it if it keeps the sole supplier of some quality products in business. Bike-Quip was sorely missed by members of this forum when the previous owner became ill.
 
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Yeah.. they are some type of stainless. Hard to make good hardware from really rust-proof stainless like the mufflers are made from, some stuff makes great cabinets or countertops.. Have to think of the heat/cool cycle those are going through. Yep, the maybe could majke them better, but there is a price for everything.
 
There are many alloys of steel that are 'stainless'. A few remain bright without cleaning or polishing but most will form oxides on the surface that color brown but are just a surface coloration. Exposure to salted or icing chemicals can cause problems not present in other climates.

The problem with many of our bikes are that they are garage queens and the clamps aren't looked at for years at a time. A little anti seize or even a loosening and tightening sequence annually on these would prevent most of the problems.

Galling is a problem with bright stainless alloys and is one reason manufacturers don't use it aside from cost.
 
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I don't know about anybody else but I'm not seeing Husoi's pics. I see:

Husoi said:
Attachment 194714
New £2.69 clamp (UK price)

Attachment 194715
As you can see, old clamps are long gone

Attachment 194716
Under the exhaust

Attachment 194717
Upper fixing with 12mm bolt and nut

Attachment 194718
Use a spanner both sides to remove the bolt

Attachment 194719
Second fixing under the pillion's foot rest this is a 10mm bolt and nut

Attachment 194720
TADA! Exhaust off.

Attachment 194721
Put the clamp in place

Attachment 194722
Coper silicone gasket seal (not necessary but helps to seal)

Attachment 194723
Place the silencer back and tighten the clamp
Attachment 194724
These are the tools you will need, the wire brush I used to clean the stop ring. The clothe is optional
Click to expand...

Clicking on a link takes me to 'Attachment invalid...'
 
Husoi said:
The reason is to do with the easy access with the spanner, I don't think there is a problem in fitting either way.
Click to expand...

:plus1: on that. ​
The OEM brackets (if my memory serves me well enough) have a locating tab to make sure that the bits on the bracket that stick out do not interfere with the centre stand when it is retracted. With these S/S style of clamps I have mine so that it is easy to access with the socket and extension. The clamp has to be undone to rotate the exhaust out of the way in order to remove the axle to get at the brake calliper or remove the rear wheel.

So for me this means the hex head is under the exhaust, facing out and rotated up a little so that the ratchet doesn't smash my knuckles on the floor when I am tightening and fastening.

See - a little insight before working on a job can save all sorts of pain and misery. Excuse me, I need to go and change my plasters.
 
jfheath said:
The clamp has to be undone to rotate the exhaust out of the way in order to remove the axle to get at the brake calliper or remove the rear wheel.
Click to expand...

if you get it set just right, you don't need to loosen or remove it for rotating the exhaust. I understand it may not be the most secure air connection that is available, but it's a bike, not like exhaust/carbon monoxide is leaking up through the floor into the cabin.
 
I stripped another muffler clamp thread the last time I removed the rear wheel. This would be the second time I've had to replace a clamp in the last three years. So I've ordered two of the Mikalor Supra W4 stainless steel clamps 55-59 mm, part no. 03013155 from Acklands-Grainger industrial supply here in Canada (MIK301315-5). According to the Mikalor data sheet the W4 model has a swiveling bridge so it can be mounted without removing the hose, or in our case, the muffler. For my Canadian neighbours the price was $10.20 each delivered to my local outlet from Ontario. With a little anti-seize compound on the bolt threads I'm hoping these will last the life of the bike.
 
MajorTom said:
I stripped another muffler clamp thread the last time I removed the rear wheel. This would be the second time I've had to replace a clamp in the last three years. So I've ordered two of the Mikalor Supra W4 stainless steel clamps 55-59 mm, part no. 03013155 from Acklands-Grainger industrial supply here in Canada (MIK301315-5). According to the Mikalor data sheet the W4 model has a swiveling bridge so it can be mounted without removing the hose, or in our case, the muffler. For my Canadian neighbours the price was $10.20 each delivered to my local outlet from Ontario. With a little anti-seize compound on the bolt threads I'm hoping these will last the life of the bike.
Click to expand...

I need to replace my clamps. Have you received and installed your new clamps? How did they fit? Any feedback/impressions?
Dennis
 
I stripped another muffler clamp thread the last time I removed the rear wheel. This would be the second time I've had to replace a clamp in the last three years. So I've ordered two of the Mikalor Supra W4 stainless steel clamps 55-59 mm, part no. 03013155 from Acklands-Grainger industrial supply here in Canada (MIK301315-5). According to the Mikalor data sheet the W4 model has a swiveling bridge so it can be mounted without removing the hose, or in our case, the muffler. For my Canadian neighbours the price was $10.20 each delivered to my local outlet from Ontario. With a little anti-seize compound on the bolt threads I'm hoping these will last the life of the bike.

Mine just arrived - here is a side by side with the OEM and the Mikalors from grainger.ca
 

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Kottbullar said:
I stripped another muffler clamp thread the last time I removed the rear wheel. This would be the second time I've had to replace a clamp in the last three years. So I've ordered two of the Mikalor Supra W4 stainless steel clamps 55-59 mm, part no. 03013155 from Acklands-Grainger industrial supply here in Canada (MIK301315-5). According to the Mikalor data sheet the W4 model has a swiveling bridge so it can be mounted without removing the hose, or in our case, the muffler. For my Canadian neighbours the price was $10.20 each delivered to my local outlet from Ontario. With a little anti-seize compound on the bolt threads I'm hoping these will last the life of the bike.

Mine just arrived - here is a side by side with the OEM and the Mikalors from grainger.ca
Click to expand...

Great information. Thanks!
 
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