ST1300 Saddlebag locks

[SupraSabre]

...I keep forgetting to say something, but....

How many of you that have a ST1300P model knew that the regular ST1300s can't get their keys out of the saddlebags without locking them? If you have a ST1300P, did you know you could?

And the other way... for those with non-ST1300Ps, did you know that there are locks for saddlebags that don't require you to lock them?

Now for the crazy thing, I ONLY found out after I had sold the '04#2 to Bill (remember, I put 50K miles on it between 3/2015 and when I sold it), that I could pull the keys out without locking the saddlebags. The reason the '04#2 is that way, is that I had picked up a full set of ST1300P locks off ebay a number of years ago and installed them on the '04#2.

We return now to your regularly scheduled program.

 

[Igofar]

If you lift the handle and look down inside you'll see a small brass looking tab if you will, simply push this out of the way and under the latch and you now have police bags that can be opened without the key.

 

[lrhsr05st1300]

I'll have to look into that! Mines been giving me fits, have to fiddle with the handle before the key will turn

 

[Lowndes]

Hey, Irhs05st1300,

My latches and locks were giving me fits, too!! So I took them apart last weekend and discovered all this. This is an EZPZ job and well worth the 30 minutes. This area catches water, dust, sand and does not drain well at all, hence the problems.

After cleaning everything, getting all the sand and grit, cobwebs, dried up grease, etc, out, I sprayed them with this DRY LUBE from WD. Regular grease and oil will collect grit and turn it into grinding compound, dry lubes won't do that. It worked SO WELL that I went around to all the doorknobs and locks in the house, garage, cars, other bikes and gave them a shot, too. Everything is working so much better now.

The Honda locking mechanism is surprisingly complex and if not clean and lubed will hang up badly.

All the pics are here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2XeYZPhHTYniFneAA

This is the bottom side of the latch from inside the pannier with the inner cover off (4 acorn nuts, 7 screws) and the locking mech removed. The "small brass looking tab ..." that Igofar refers to is visible (upper right) and how it functions with the lockset is clear.

I put a good shot of this stuff down into the lockset key slots and it made a huge difference. PTFE (Teflon) is the lubricant and the volatile propellant is a good solvent/cleaner, too. Works well on the plastic parts, too.

This is one end of the locking mechanism. The other end is a mirror image. It is held in place by the 4 acorn nuts accessible on the inside. One pannier cover latch hook is visible upper right. The pins and slots below the hook must slide freely to function properly. Very interesting design. All those get a good shot of the dry lube. It does not disassemble, thankfully.

 

[Bmacleod]

When I first got my ST, it irritataed the heck out of me that I had to use the key everytime I wanted to open the pannier. When I started to think of the consequences of a bag opening while riding down the road and the possibility of it happening, I started to think that it is not that big an issue. I still dont like it, but the latches dont seem to instill a lot of trust without the key.

 

[ST Gui]

I still dont like it, but the latches dont seem to instill a lot of trust without the key.

+1 Also not that anybody goes around trying panniers to see if they're locked... We lock them for a reason. I'd rather have to unlock them every time than forget to lock 'em one time.

The short key is a compromise but then you have to remember to remove it when parked and away for a time.

have to fiddle with the handle before the key will turn

The metal tang may have been bent when trying to lock the bag without the handle fully compressed. I have one side that needs to have the handle pressed firmly while the other one just needs to be closed. My bike is always garaged and/or covered overnight and is low milage. Dirt is very likely not the issue in my case.

My car door locks were sticking in cool weather. A shot of dry silicone spray fixed it.

 

[lrhsr05st1300]

Hey, Irhs05st1300,

My latches and locks were giving me fits, too!! So I took them apart last weekend and discovered all this. This is an EZPZ job and well worth the 30 minutes. This area catches water, dust, sand and does not drain well at all, hence the problems.

After cleaning everything, getting all the sand and grit, cobwebs, dried up grease, etc, out, I sprayed them with this DRY LUBE from WD. Regular grease and oil will collect grit and turn it into grinding compound, dry lubes won't do that. It worked SO WELL that I went around to all the doorknobs and locks in the house, garage, cars, other bikes and gave them a shot, too. Everything is working so much better now.

The Honda locking mechanism is surprisingly complex and if not clean and lubed will hang up badly.

All the pics are here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2XeYZPhHTYniFneAA

This is the bottom side of the latch from inside the pannier with the inner cover off (4 acorn nuts, 7 screws) and the locking mech removed. The "small brass looking tab ..." that Igofar refers to is visible (upper right) and how it functions with the lockset is clear.

I put a good shot of this stuff down into the lockset key slots and it made a huge difference. PTFE (Teflon) is the lubricant and the volatile propellant is a good solvent/cleaner, too. Works well on the plastic parts, too.

This is one end of the locking mechanism. The other end is a mirror image. It is held in place by the 4 acorn nuts accessible on the inside. One pannier cover latch hook is visible upper right. The pins and slots below the hook must slide freely to function properly. Very interesting design. All those get a good shot of the dry lube. It does not disassemble, thankfully.

Wow thanks for that p

Hey, Irhs05st1300,

My latches and locks were giving me fits, too!! So I took them apart last weekend and discovered all this. This is an EZPZ job and well worth the 30 minutes. This area catches water, dust, sand and does not drain well at all, hence the problems.

After cleaning everything, getting all the sand and grit, cobwebs, dried up grease, etc, out, I sprayed them with this DRY LUBE from WD. Regular grease and oil will collect grit and turn it into grinding compound, dry lubes won't do that. It worked SO WELL that I went around to all the doorknobs and locks in the house, garage, cars, other bikes and gave them a shot, too. Everything is working so much better now.

The Honda locking mechanism is surprisingly complex and if not clean and lubed will hang up badly.

All the pics are here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2XeYZPhHTYniFneAA

This is the bottom side of the latch from inside the pannier with the inner cover off (4 acorn nuts, 7 screws) and the locking mech removed. The "small brass looking tab ..." that Igofar refers to is visible (upper right) and how it functions with the lockset is clear.

I put a good shot of this stuff down into the lockset key slots and it made a huge difference. PTFE (Teflon) is the lubricant and the volatile propellant is a good solvent/cleaner, too. Works well on the plastic parts, too.

This is one end of the locking mechanism. The other end is a mirror image. It is held in place by the 4 acorn nuts accessible on the inside. One pannier cover latch hook is visible upper right. The pins and slots below the hook must slide freely to function properly. Very interesting design. All those get a good shot of the dry lube. It does not disassemble, thankfully.

thanks for the write up ! I know what I’m doing when I get back from arcampstoc this weekend

 

[Lowndes]

My bike is always garaged and/or covered overnight and is low milage. Dirt is very likely not the issue in my case.

ST Gui,

As for "...always garaged and/or covered overnight and is low milage (sp).", I would suggest that bikes usually don't get dirty in the garage and under a cover, they get dirty on the road, especially in wet conditions. The pics above are on a NTM '06 with 27,520 miles and AFTER I cleaned them. Not sure if that qualifies as "low miles" here. Also, the factory lube had oxidized into a wax that was gone from the sliding surfaces (no lube).

You might try a shot of your dry lube on the slots and pins by removing 4 nuts and 7 little screws from the inside cover (leave the locking meck in-place). It sure made a HUGE difference for me.

 

[CYYJ]

You might try a shot of your dry lube on the slots and pins by removing 4 nuts and 7 little screws from the inside cover (leave the locking meck in-place). It sure made a HUGE difference for me.

+1 from me on Lowndes' suggestion. I did the same thing a year ago - took the pannier latches apart, cleaned them & lubed them - the difference it makes is night and day. Well worth the time and effort, and it's a easy rainy afternoon job. All you need is a small JIS (Phillips if you don't have JIS) screwdriver and an 8 mm socket wrench.

Michael

 

[ST Gui]

I would suggest that bikes usually don't get dirty in the garage and under a cover

Of course they don't.

they get dirty on the road, especially in wet conditions.

Seriously. I would suggest that as my bike is low mileage it hasn't spent a lot of time on the road and never in wet conditions dirt is likely not the issue. All my other locks work smoothly and properly.

All you need is a small JIS (Phillips if you don't have JIS) screwdriver and an 8 mm socket wrench.

Actually if you don't have a JIS screwdriver you get a JIS screwdriver. Or three. A Phillips is not a substitute. JIS drivers are relatively inexpensive.

I don't doubt that fresh lube might make them work even more smoothly. It just won't do anything for the tweaked tang.

 

[ToddC]

Of course, tweaked tang.

Is that like spiked punch for astronauts...........