ST1300 - No plugs for Cruise Control

[Mophead]

I have started my McCruise install but when it comes time to hook up some plugs that are supposed to be behind the right cylinder head the plugs that McCruise shows and the ST1300 shop manual shows are not there. All I have is this vacuum looking canister with a Denso switch on it. Don't seem to find any info on what's up. 2005 non ABS.
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[larryg]

I'm also in the middle of an MCCruise install......

I think you're looking for the Speed Sensor connector. It is behind the canister, there's a rubber sheet you can see circled in this photo:
The connector is behind that, You will most likely have to unbolt the canister from the frame for access behind the rubber.
Even so, it's a bit of a PITA to get in there.



Good luck with your install......

 

[Mophead]

I removed the canister last night and took a look behind the rubber curtain. Did not see any plugs except for the big gray one with several green wires that resides up inside the frame rail by the injector bodies. I'm going to have to look again as they have to be there somewhere.

Do you have the canister on your bike? Did you find the connector behind the rubber?

 

[larryg]

The connector is above where you can get your fingers in - you have to pull it down, carefully, from above the hole - not easy to get at.
In the photo, the original connector is the one on the right that comes down from above (the other is for my Speedohealer, ignore for your purposes)
Be careful when you try to pull it down, and separate it - there's not much slack, and you could pull it off the wire if not cautious.


Hope this helps.....

 

[Larry Fine]

May I suggest two large pairs of needle-nosed pliers, perhaps with bent tips, to separate the connectors? You can usually find a set of assorted needle-nosed pliers at tool stores.

 

[larryg]

May I suggest two large pairs of needle-nosed pliers, perhaps with bent tips, to separate the connectors? You can usually find a set of assorted needle-nosed pliers at tool stores.

Yes, that's exactly what I used, one bent long-nose to hold it, and the other to gently pull it apart.

 

[Larry Fine]

Told ya!

 

[Mophead]

Well the little connectors were hiding behind the rubber curtain. I found that if you remove the canister, the crash bar and the little triangle in front of the rubber curtain that gives you plenty of room to get hands in to break the two connectors and make the cruise connections. Now have all connections made and will start putting it back together.
Thank you all for the help in finding the connectors. How did we ever live without forums and great people who are in the know?

 

[fnmag]

Well the little connectors were hiding behind the rubber curtain. I found that if you remove the canister, the crash bar and the little triangle in front of the rubber curtain that gives you plenty of room to get hands in to break the two connectors and make the cruise connections. Now have all connections made and will start putting it back together.
Thank you all for the help in finding the connectors. How did we ever live without forums and great people who are in the know?

Congrats on finding the connectors and making the cruise connection.

 

[Larry Fine]

How did we ever live without forums and great people who are in the know?

Same way that we lived without great bikes - miserably.

 

[Mophead]

If you remove the two bottom hoses you can swing the canister up out of the way by the frame rail.


Then remove the tin canister mount and set it aside.




Remove the crash bar. Two bolts and one nut. Front bolt is not visible in the pic but you can't miss it.




Remove the aluminum triangle. Three bolts.



Leave the rubber curtain inside the triangle. No need to remove it. Then just zip tie the triangle and rubber curtain up and out of the way.




Then you will find the black and white connectors inside the plastic sleeve. Install McCruise connectors and put back inside plastic sleeve. Doing it this way gives you room to work with your hands and needle nose not needed.



Slide the rubber curtain back in place and reinstall the triangle, crash bar, tin canister plate, and the canister. Don't forget to reinstall the two rubber hoses on bottom of canister.

You're done!

 

[Mophead]

Finished up the install of the McCruise, ran the diagnostics, took it out for a spin and everything worked perfect. If you are looking to put an electronic cruise on your ST I highly recommend this unit. Its a little pricey but the plug and play wiring harness and instructions make it worth the coin.
My hat is off to you guys who can take the Rostra or Ausiovox and make it work but if you are like me and want a true plug and play system the McCruise is it.

 

[kiltman]

I’m about to upgrade from an audiovox to a Rosta on my 1100. There isn’t a VSS, but I might tap into my ABS wheel sensor to get the pulses. Hopefully the unit can deal with the amount of pulses the sensor puts out per mile....we shall see.
Congratulations on your install

 

[Larry Fine]

My hat is off to you guys who can take the Rostra or Ausiovox and make it work . . .

Thank you. I've been working on 12v wiring since the days of 8-tracks.

I haven't gotten around to putting one on the ST1100 yet, but I did install a Rostra 250-1223 universal electronic CC on my 96 NH750. The main unit is in a space behind the transmission, above the swing-arm pivot. I used a Trail Tech 8500 RS switch on the left handlebar as a controller:

https://www.trailtech.net/accessories/gauges-accessories/striker-mounts/8500-rs

The center button is wired as a 'cancel' button, using a tiny relay to ground the clutch wire. I just wired it always-on so I didn't have to use a separate power switch. I mounted the speed-sensor coil at the left rear tip of the swing-arm, and four magnets wire-tied around the wheel hub.

I wired the 'engaged' wire to the side-stand-down light through a resistor, so it's bright enough to see in the daytime, but dim enough to not be obnoxious at night. It took some trial-and-error to find the best DIP-switch settings, but now it works as well as a factory-installed car CC.

I'm happy to provide any assistance I can to anyone who wants it.

 

[Al Gully]

Finished up the install of the McCruise, ran the diagnostics, took it out for a spin and everything worked perfect. If you are looking to put an electronic cruise on your ST I highly recommend this unit. My hat is off to you guys who can take the Rostra or Ausiovox and make it work but if you are like me and want a true plug and play system the McCruise is it.

That's awsome you have yours up and running. Used my audiovox cruise all the way out to the motorcycle show this morning. Still working flawlessly after 9 years of service. Went by a lot of bikes today in the fast lane with my right hand on my right hip.

 

[hoowasat]

I am another who appreciates the info posted above. My second Audiovox CC failed a few months back, and I recently received a McCruise kit (yes, it is pricey). So, before I can start installing the McCruise, I will remove the dead CCS-100, then back-track all the leads so I can remove all the unnecessary wiring.