ST1300 dash and front fairing removal process- a plea

ibike2havefun

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Hi-

Although a number of people have taken the time and trouble to document steps and procedures for removing and reinstalling the engine guard, inner cowls, lower, and middle fairing panels on the ST1300 I have never run across or managed to find a similar article that details removal of either the dash panel or the front fairing panel and headlight assembly. Is there such a thing that I've simply missed? Or do you have a preferred way of accomplishing it, that you are willing to document and share with the world (and me)?

It may be that it such an obvious and simple process that it doesn't "need" documenting, but I'm one of those "all the help I can get" kind of guys...

Thanks in advance.
 
I don't recall ever seeing one... but, you do have to remove the side side panels and mirror covers as well as inner panels.

Then, remove windshield and front black cover.

From there, it is pretty obvious. If I still had my ST I'd try to put something together... maybe someone has some pics while doing something else that will sorta illustrate it.
 
Here's how I would go about it:

First, get yourself half a dozen small containers (margarine tubs, paper cups, whatever) so you can put the various screws and fasteners from each set of panels in a different cup. This will make it much easier for you when the time comes to put everything back together.

1) Move the windshield to the highest position.

2) Empty the pockets in the fairings, and leave the fairing pocket covers open.

3) Remove the mirror covers on each side. Disconnect them from the retaining strap (one small Phillips-type screw), and disconnect the electrical connections. Set the mirror covers aside.

4) Remove the mirrors from each side (two 8mm bolts each). Set them aside.

5) Remove the two plastic tip-over guard covers (one large Phillips-type screw each). Set them aside.

6) Remove the triangular black plastic part (mudguard? Front of engine cover? "Inner Lower Cowl", in Honda-speak) that is directly behind the front wheel. (two Phillips-type screws and numerous push-pins). It might not want to come out once you have removed all the fasteners - if not, don't worry, it will probably fall down once you finish step 7.

7) Remove the black belly fairings ("Lower Cowl", in Honda-speak) from the bottom of each side of the bike (numerous 5mm hex-head bolts, and a few push-pin fasteners up at the front). Be aware that there are a few push-pin fasteners directly underneath the motorcycle, at the very front.

8) Remove the big side panels ("Middle Cowls") from each side of the bike. These are the panels that cover the engine on each side, they will have a logo on them that says "ST 1100" or "PanEuropean". They are held on by some 8 mm bolts near the tip-over bars, a few small Phillips-type screws up by where the mirrors were, and an assortment of 5 mm hex-head bolts. You might want to take some pictures showing where all the fasteners are before you take these panels off - they have the most fasteners of all. Be aware that there are two screws under each fairing pocket cover that need to be removed, and also two push-pins inside the hole where the forks are (about an inch down from each fairing pocket) that need to be removed to get these large panels off. Also be aware that there are a whole bunch of push-pins inside the aperture where the radiator is that need to be removed.

To manipulate these big panels off the bike, pull them outwards (sideways) at the lower back, where your foot goes when you ride the bike. Then, stick your hand into the fork hole and pull the panel upwards about one inch to clear the inner panel (where you removed the two push-pins). Finally, move the entire panel forward a few inches to disconnect it from where the mirror mounts are.

You could, I suppose, remove the small plastic panels that are inside either side of the fork hole, after you have removed those two push-pins. That will save you having to lift up the big side panel one inch to clear those two inner panels.

9) Remove (loosen and lift up an inch or so) the "Inner Screen Cowl", which is the upper front-facing part under the windshield. The windshield retaining arms stick through this piece. It's held in place by push-pins (not all the same, so pay attention to what shape of push-pin goes where when you take the pins out). You don't have to remove this part from the bike (that would require windshield removal), just remove the pins holding it and lift the whole panel up about an inch so you can get to the next step.

10) Now remove the "Upper Cowl", which is the part below the windshield with the word 'Honda' on it. It is held on by two screws, one near each mirror. You probably removed these screws without knowing it during step 8.

By now, you will have very good access to the back of the entire headlight assembly. Chances are that you won't need to remove the headlight assembly from the motorcycle in order to accomplish whatever you have set out to do.
 
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If, after having done all the work described above, you still want to do further disassembly up at the front...

11) To remove the entire dashboard & meter panel (speedometer, etc.) assembly, just make sure you have removed all the Phillips-type screws near where the mirrors attach, then simply lift up that whole dashboard assembly (once you have separated it slightly from the front part of the 'dashboard', which was step 9, above). There is a big electrical connector at the bottom that you will need to disconnect.

12) If you want to physically remove the headlight assembly, disconnect the various connectors to the bulbs (there are 4 connectors, one for each headlight, one each for the little W5W lights in the upper outboard corners), disconnect the electrical connection to the headlight levelling motor, then remove four screws from the back of the headlight assembly - more or less one screw in each outboard corner, when looking at the back of the headlight assembly. There is also a grommet up at the top middle that you need to work around (perhaps remove, perhaps just be aware of, I can't recall exactly). You can now remove that whole headlight assembly from the motorcycle.

But having said all that, try and avoid carrying out steps 11 & 12 unless absolutely necessary. It's usually not necessary.

Michael
 
Thanks guys. It is discouraging to know that I still have to remove all of the usual bodywork in order to remove the dash. I was hoping to avoid that- you've seen my "there has to be a better way" post about the main panel reinstallation process, probably. (I have a now well-established routine for the regular panel removals- steps 1 through 8 in @CYYJ 's response above; my reinstallation procedure still needs some refinement as I often seem to miss some key subtlety and end up having to either re-do part of the work or live with sub-optimal results until the next time they all come off.)

The reasons I was asking were:
  • in an article about replacing the front marker lights with LED bulbs, the author said he had removed the dash and (I thought) implied that could be done without first removing all the other bits. Perhaps I misunderstood.

  • I am thinking about going the BlueGauges route over the winter, and that would of course entail removal of the dash and instrument panel (DUH).

  • It would give me an opportunity to "bury" the toll transponder so that it is permanently deployed but invisible. I currently carry it in the fairing pocket and use the industrial-strength plastic mounting strips that came with it to stick it to one fairing pocket cover when I need to have it out. It would be nice to free up that small bit of space in the pocket. I have not thoroughly tested so I don't know whether simply having the transponder in the pocket is actually enough to register on the toll readers. That's a topic for a separate discussion, though.
 
Those blueguages are sweet! Well worth a little effort.
 
Those blueguages are sweet! Well worth a little effort.

Yes- I saw them on another member's bike at NESTOC in June. They were SO much easier to see than the Anemic Orange LEDs chosen by Honda.

For the past two winters I've said, about whatever I was adding or changing at the time, "I think THIS will be my last farkle". Maybe this year? (The first step in curing a problem is acknowledging that it exists... :) )
 
...in an article about replacing the front marker lights with LED bulbs, the author said he had removed the dash and (I thought) implied that could be done without first removing all the other bits. Perhaps I misunderstood.
You can get more than adequate access to the two small front marker lights (the W5W bulbs) by just removing the side panels (up to and including step 8 in my post above).[/QUOTE]

...It would give me an opportunity to "bury" the toll transponder so that it is permanently deployed but invisible.
For the transponder, you might want to consider loosening the inner screen cowl (step 9, do that step on its own, with no other prep besides raising the windshield to the uppermost position) and then jamming the transponder up inside the inner cowl. That is what I have done with my transponder here in Ontario, it works just fine.

An alternative might be to remove the black plastic flat piece that is on the tail of the motorcycle, directly behind the pillion seat (it's sort of like a little miniature shelf behind the pillion seat) and put the transponder under there... there is quite an empty compartment below that black plastic piece. There's no reason that the transponder has to be at the front of the motorcycle, as long as you are not carrying cargo on that shelf.

Michael
 
This video at 08:00 seems to show the dash being removed without a lot of the regular Tup being removed.

You can get more than adequate access to the two small front marker lights (the W5W bulbs) by just removing the side panels (up to and including step 8 in my post above)

I don't think he was talking about replacing the marker bulbs.
 
CYYJ said:
there is quite an empty compartment below that black plastic piece.

A very cool idea! I have a xponder mounted in the left (PORT) pannier in the upper rear corner. If I didn't have a metal rack on top of the plastic pad I'd move the xponder there.
 
Maybe my bike is different but the bottom panel, the one under the engine, had different bolts in the holes. I didn't expect this when I took it off to look for a leak so I didn't keep track of the bolt that came out of each hole. When I was having trouble on reassembly I noticed the difference in the bolts.
 
there is quite an empty compartment below that black plastic piece

Not so empty on my bike thanks to various and sundry bits of user-added wiring, fuse block, grounding strip, dash cam DVR, blah blah blah. And, it'd be under the GIVI and GIVI plate, making it much less likely to get read.
 
Maybe my bike is different but the bottom panel, the one under the engine, had different bolts in the holes. I didn't expect this when I took it off to look for a leak so I didn't keep track of the bolt that came out of each hole. When I was having trouble on reassembly I noticed the difference in the bolts.

If you're talking about the lower fairing panels that have five bolts each, yes/ The two that go in front on each panel are slightly less beefy and have different collars on them than the other three. They all take a 5mm Allen key to remove / reinstall.
 
I just did the led headlight, running light, switchback blinkers conversion to my bike. To get access to the headlights you just need to remove the mirror covers, the windshield, the cowl under the windshield, and the dash (speedometer, tach., etc.). It has already been explained above how to do this but without ever having done it before and just figuring it out, I had everything removed in 15 minutes. The access to the headlights is much, much easier at this point. Re-installation probably took 20-25 minutes. It will save you time in the long run. You do not have to remove all of that other stuff to get the dash off.
 
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A wealth of info here- Thank you. New to the forum. Happy to be here. Thanks for having me.
I'll soon be undertaking a full replacement of the fairing/cowl, headlamp assembly, and windshield after a crash last month. Although I've never done body work, I feel aftermarket parts (fairing kit and headlamp assembly) are easily sourced and thanks to these posts- very approachable.

My question to the group- while I have the entire front off for replacement, what else might I consider as enhancements/upgrades while I'm at it? I hate to have the entire thing apart and miss some low-hanging fruit while I've got the whole front end wide open. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
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