ST1100 Carburetor 101- Remove, Clean, Inspect, Repair.

Joined
Apr 21, 2019
Messages
36
Age
29
Location
Vermont
Bike
Custom ST1100
So recently I have had some issues with my ST after siting for a year or 2. The bike would start and run but after about 30 seconds it's would slowly starting die out. So I decided I don't want to try and additvies (sea foam, K100) and repair the bike the proper way by removing the carbs and learning them inside and out...I found that the pilot jet was clogged..it even looked like Main jet would have been clogged if the hole was smaller..but hopefully this solves my problem after a good carb sync. Thank you everyone for you hep and feel free to leave any Tips and Tricks for the ST Carb..Here are some photos and questions I have.
WHERE CAN I ORDER QUALITY OEM CARB KIT? (GASKETS, BOOTS, FLOAT NEEDLE)
 

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You might give Billy Carr in Canton, TX a call. (903) 567-1543. He's pretty much THE Honda V4 carb guy. He can probably tell you where to get them and maybe answer some of your questions. FWIW, he rebuilt mine for $325, all new parts. They came out really nice and work perfectly. I found him recommended on several other motorcycle sites.

Also, Adam Frymoyer has a good write-up on pulling, and reinstalling ST11 carbs. You might PM him as well for some good info. Good luck!
 
You might give Billy Carr in Canton, TX a call. (903) 567-1543. He's pretty much THE Honda V4 carb guy. He can probably tell you where to get them and maybe answer some of your questions. FWIW, he rebuilt mine for $325, all new parts. They came out really nice and work perfectly. I found him recommended on several other motorcycle sites.

Also, Adam Frymoyer has a good write-up on pulling, and reinstalling ST11 carbs. You might PM him as well for some good info. Good luck!
Thank you, I will give him a call ASAP.
 
A couple of things while you are that far into it. Most ST1100's will eventually get a coolant leak on the coolant elbow fittings that bolt to the block below the carbs. I would pull the fittings and replace the o-rings there if the elbows are still in good shape. If not replace them with new and replace the hoses and clamps while you are in there. Check all hoses and connections and tighten clamps as these loosen with age. This will save you grief later. Also replace the rubber carb manifolds as these too shrink with age and can leak.
Clean the carb diaphragms with WD-40 gently with a very soft cloth and get some silicone grease and gently massage the grease into the surface of the rubber. This will protect the rubber and keep the diaphragms pliable.

Also - Read this article thoroughly - Good information here: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=10249.0
 
I would pull the fittings and replace the o-rings there if the elbows are still in good shape. If not replace them with new and replace the hoses and clamps while you are in there.
common wisdom on the forum is to replace the elbows, some have tried to re-use them and they cracked shortly afterwards. They're less than $10 each, so not worth the gamble. New O-rings and hoses too. Those hoses will swell over time and eventually split lengthwise, and all your coolant dumps out in a matter of a few seconds.
 
common wisdom on the forum is to replace the elbows, some have tried to re-use them and they cracked shortly afterwards. They're less than $10 each, so not worth the gamble. New O-rings and hoses too. Those hoses will swell over time and eventually split lengthwise, and all your coolant dumps out in a matter of a few seconds.
No reason not to re-use the old elbows if they're in good shape - I've done this on quite a few St1100's. Most of the cracking occurs due to over-torquing the bolts.

Dan
 
"Partzilla, Service Honda, Cheap Cycle Parts, Ron Ayers, are all decent places to order parts online."

I've had pretty good luck with Dillion Brother out of Omaha, but shop around for the best total price.

 
Keyster carburetor kits are quite OK, but if budget permits OEM the ideal.

An ultrasound cleaner also pays off quickly.

I'd replace all rubber parts in reach, look for anything hardened, hence brittle...
New carb boots make pulling & installing the carb-bank a lot easier, and prevents air leaks.
Make note on the orientation of upper jubilee clips, so they won't interfere with any linkage, whilst are reachable with the extra long JIS screwdriver.

... transmitted from a CAT S60 thing ...
 
So in overhauled the carbs and there was a lot of solid gas on the inside. The bike runs better and once running for about 1min it will sit at idle around 1200 rpm with no choke and idle screws assisting. But the bike came from coloroado so would that mean the idle screw mixture is way off seeming how i live in Vermont and the bike has never been ridden here? It still seems to die out if I move the choke too quickly even after warmed up. But it runs a lot better.
 
You might give Billy Carr in Canton, TX a call. (903) 567-1543. He's pretty much THE Honda V4 carb guy. He can probably tell you where to get them and maybe answer some of your questions. FWIW, he rebuilt mine for $325, all new parts. They came out really nice and work perfectly. I found him recommended on several other motorcycle sites.

Also, Adam Frymoyer has a good write-up on pulling, and reinstalling ST11 carbs. You might PM him as well for some good info. Good luck!


I've been running through a few issues, and finally got down to carb problems (2001 ST with 78K).

Seems after an 18 month layup on the ST, I had multiple problems. After draining and replacing the gas and fuel filter (and oil / oil filter), erratic spark on #2 and wouldn't stay running without half choke. Replaced coils, plugs, and wires. Cranked right up and had idle at 4000 rpm, dialed down the throttle adjust and it would die below 2000rpm after running for a minute or two. If I moved the bike side to side it would idle up or down or die. Then noticed gas poured out of the overflow lines on the carbs. I'm sure I have stuck float and probably some clogged jets.

I'm sending my carbs to Billy on Monday. Will let you guys know how that goes, but it appears he installs a comprehensive $150 rebuild kit for about $325.
 
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