Shark Audio install pics

jimbo1

jimbo1

Joined
Apr 29, 2010
Messages
13
Location
Northwest Ohio
Bike
07 Victory
I got my Shark audio system installed on my bike last week. I have included some pics and explanations in my photo album. The URL link to my Youtube showing the unit installed and operating is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsId...list=ULmq6e1aSYgqk&lf=mfu_in_order&playnext=2

The website for where I bought it is:
http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/...--yacht-2-speakers--amplifier--radio-pkg.html

This is a stock 2006 ST1300. So far I have ridden over 600 miles with the unit playing 50% of the time. Under 65 mph it is very good. Over that and it gets a little drowned out with wind. The fairing and windshield seem to help direct the sound back pretty well.
 
Converting Watts to Amps

The conversion of Watts to Amps at fixed voltage is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp


250 watts/12 volts = 20.83 amps Assuming while riding the alternator is pushing minimum 13.5 volts would compute to 250/13.5=18.52 amps, 20 amp fuse?
 
It's 250W at an incredibly high distortion, (I forgert how much), so it probably has about 50W usable before it's to distorted to listen to. Still, not a bad amp to have on the bike for that price.
 
Particularly car audio, watts are wildley over stated for marketing purposes as folk seem to think more is better. 250 watts is instantaneous peak onobtanium power not continuous audio output. If it actually produced that for any period of time the glue holding the motor to the cone would have melted and the tweeter would have cooked from the clipping.

According to the web site it's fused at 5amps so it can produce less than 67 watts spead across all outputs. Not saying there's anything wrong with this one just take the marketing claims with a grain of salt.

FWIW the diffence in volume 100watts vs. 200watts is not particularly noticeable. It's not twice as loud. If the numbers were accurate if would give you more head room to avoid clipping distortion and frying your tweeters.
 
Duh. Yes. 250 watts, not amps
Here are some figures from the User Manual for you folks with knowledge.
50Wx2+130Wx1 detachable amplifier with a pair of 3" weatherproof loudspeakers.
RMS Power: 25Wx2+65Wx1@4 Ohm 10% THD
50Wx2@2 Ohm 10%THD+65Wx1@4 Ohm 10%THD.
Inline fuse is a F8AL250V glass tube fuse.
I usually wear a full face Shoei without earplugs (even with my Delkevic mufflers).
I can hear the stereo pretty well with the faceshield open and windshield UP.
When I wear my 3/4 helmet it sounds even better. I always wear a helmet.
 
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hmm... not the same as their web site.
That's an 8amp fuse. or 13.4v*8= 107watts total is all it could produce including power that is lost heating up the unit.

10% THD means they are spec'g output power with a gross amount of distortion.
"Total Harmonic Distortion" Not that this isn't done a lot in car audio specsmanship.

Sort of (watts of garbage) / (watts of music)

And marketing plays games with that, as it does not specify at what frequency and if they are talking about power or amplitude.

They're saying it will deliver 25watts left and right into speakers with a nominal impedance of 4ohms over driven at a point were it is also producing 10% distortion. No idea what the +65watts means. Does it have a sub woofer output? Or it could mean (OR not +) 65watts
into one speaker if you bridged the outputs and ran it mono not stereo.

Not knocking the unit just fyi to read thru the marketing lies.
 
I think when I was younger and into that kind of thing more, I was looking at amplifiers with .04%THD, or was it .004%THD, I don't remember, but it was definately much lower than 10%THD. I remember that my old stereo with 0.3%THD was unacceptable.

Hey, but whatever gives you tunes you can use. It's alot more and better than I have now!
 
doesnt matter if it is high distortion or not!! with all the wind and traffic noise...it's hard to get hifi on a bike! I dont care if you spend a grand!...with a helmet on and wind...who cares how much distortion you get...music is music when your ridin' :p:

Unit sounds good on here...I might have try this on the scooter if I cant sell it...
the Pyle unit looks simular...but havn't heard it...http://www.amazon.com/PLMCA30-Motor...MPBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319068514&sr=8-1
I bet either one would do even a better job if switched out the speakers with polkaudio
 
Manual also says the amp is ready for subwoofer channel amplifying but does not state the power available. The whole system and packaging does appear to be an inexpensive asian unit but as stated above, it does play and give enough quality sound that I can recognize the songs playing. Who knows how long it will last. Also, I leave the lid ajar when running to let the heat escape from the fairing compartment. Those things really get warm. I would like to find a way to duct that heat into my jacket this time of year.
 
I have the 100W system on a Burgman 400 and yes, it's a cheap system, but what do you really expect for $65.00? I like it, it provides enjoyable entertainment even with a FF helmet on up to about 75/80 mph. I suppose you could spend $700 to $800 and get a good quality system, but as someone stated earlier, with all the wind and traffic noise, is real HiFi achievable on a motorcycle (that's not parked or stoppped - and yes, I know it can be, but, not for under a few hundred bucks)?
I have real question you.
How difficult was the speaker placement? Did you have to remove anything? A bit more detail there would be nice. Thanks
 
Using custom earbuds with an iPod and Autocom, I get pretty good quality sound. I can even talk on the phone at high speeds!
 
Check out my pics on my picture gallery. One picture has this for a caption "To open up speaker area first remove windshield, inner screen cowl, and meter panel. These procedures are shown on pages 2-16 thru 2-19 of the service manual. You may need to elongate any holes you add to the bracket to make it fit in this location. I used the middle bolt found on the windshield motor frame." The other pics should show you enough to make the speaker mount happen. With 1000 miles on it, the speakers are still snug in place and work fine. I have added a Sony walkman radio to the short cord to have radio diversity and AM capability. I mounted it with velcro to the right compartment lid. It doesn't move. I have about $140 in the whole system not counting the Ipod Nano.
 
How is the reception in the boonies with that little antennae. You have run it about 8 months, any thing you would do different, speakers , location of power and receiver, etc.

jimbo1 said:
Duh. Yes. 250 watts, not amps
Here are some figures from the User Manual for you folks with knowledge.
50Wx2+130Wx1 detachable amplifier with a pair of 3" weatherproof loudspeakers.
RMS Power: 25Wx2+65Wx1@4 Ohm 10% THD
50Wx2@2 Ohm 10%THD+65Wx1@4 Ohm 10%THD.
Inline fuse is a F8AL250V glass tube fuse.
I usually wear a full face Shoei without earplugs (even with my Delkevic mufflers).
I can hear the stereo pretty well with the faceshield open and windshield UP.
When I wear my 3/4 helmet it sounds even better. I always wear a helmet.
Click to expand...
 
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