Rostra Global Cruise 250-1223 on ST1100?

STOC 372

STOC 372

Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
47
Location
Nebraska
Bike
'93 ST1100
Anyone else installed one of these on an ST1100? No VSS, so I guess I need the magnet signal generator kit too.
Only write up for an ST11 I could find was here
http://www.my-mc.com/messages/1/23395.html

I *really* don't want to pull the carbs either. I'm gonna figure some way to attach the linkage without pulling them.
 
For you guys who have used this cruise (ST11 or ST13) - When you roll on the throttle does the cable retract into it's housing(sleeve) or just bend and droop?
This unit is not supposed to need the bead chain deal like the Audiovox because the "lost motion" is built into the actuator. However, all installations I have seen use a short 3-bead chain to connect to an arm attched to the throttle pulley. This "floppy" section of the cable/linkage allows the cruise cable to just droop and bend when you roll the throttle on (much like the longer bead chain section required with the Audiovox vacuum unit). I think it would be much better if the inner cable neatly retracted into it's sleeve (as was intended with this unit). I can't think of a good way to do this without risking binding up the throttle though.
Is everybody else not worrying about it and letting it droop?:confused:
 
Last edited:
Uncle Phil said:
Check with Reg Siemens (I believe he is on this board - definitely on the My-MC.Com.) He uses the Rostra on the ST1100 and is very familiar with them.
Click to expand...

Yeah Phil, I sent a PM to Reg here, no reply yet ( he did reply to an earlier one). I'm using his My-MC posting as a guide, I'm not signed up for that forum though.
I know a lot of guys use this unit on the 1300 though, and the issue should be the same.
 
STOC 372 said:
For you guys who have used this cruise (ST11 or ST13) - When you roll on the throttle does the cable retract into it's housing(sleeve) or just bend and droop?
This unit is not supposed to need the bead chain deal like the Audiovox because the "lost motion" is built into the actuator. However, all installations I have seen use a short 3-bead chain to connect to an arm attched to the throttle pulley. This "floppy" section of the cable/linkage allows the cruise cable to just droop and bend when you roll the throttle on (much like the longer bead chain section required with the Audiovox vacuum unit). I think it would be much better if the inner cable neatly retracted into it's sleeve (as was intended with this unit). I can't think of a good way to do this without risking binding up the throttle though.
Is everybody else not worrying about it and letting it droop?:confused:
Click to expand...

I have the Rostra on my ST13 with no bead chains. It doesn't droop because the sheath is mounted out far enough to support the CC cable at rest, but not out too far where the sheath will stop the cable from achieving WOT. When the factory throttle is opened, the CC cable retracts nicely into its sheath. You're right, per Rostra Tech Support, these CC's do not "like" slack, because with slack it creates an initial lag while the servo is reeling in the cable, then because it doesn't see any increased speed response, it pulls harder/faster. When it finally removes all the slack and the butterfly valves open (and speed increases abruptly), it has to quickly back-off to correct the overspeed condition, causing a fast decrease. When it backs off, the slack returns and you end up with a hunting/surging issue.

Here are few photos from another thread, showing my linkage setup: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41774

As you're aware, the Rostra doesn't come with control switches, so you have to figure that part out. Uncle Phil pointed out Reg's ST-P(olice) swiches, and I have the back-lit GL1800 switches on mine. Either of these are a great arrangement because in addition to looking factory-like and being waterproof, your hand never has to leave the grip to increase/decrease the set speed (plus you get some freeby, unused switches for other goodies/farkles).

Matt
 
Last edited:
Matt, because of the length of the arm I put on the throttle pulley (and the resulting longer travel) there's no way I could do it like you did (I tried). If I slide the cable sheath down enough where it will let the throttle return to idle the cruise cable end bottoms out way early, maybe just above half throttle.
I had to add the short bead chain section to get enough slack to reach idle but still have a decent pull for the cruise cable (it still actually bottoms out a little before full throttle).
I have almost the identical setup that Reg Siemens has. I also read a ST1300 install somewhere that used a short section of bead cable too. Certainly would be best to eliminate it though.

I *might* be able to move my cruise cable hookup further down my lever (less travel to deal with) but I doubt it. Not much room on the ST11 in that area as it is. And I would have to pull the f$%^in carbs - again:mad:
Compounding everything is with all of my messing with the cruise cable I've put a slight bend in the inner cable right where it starts retracting into the outer sheath, which is making it even more resistant to initial retraction:(
 
STOC 372 said:
I had to add the short bead chain section to get enough slack to reach idle but still have a decent pull for the cruise cable (it still actually bottoms out a little before full throttle).
Click to expand...
Suprisingly, the butterfly valves open very little at cruising speed, so it sounds like you have enough range for the CC cable. As long as it doesn't affect the full throttle/travel of the factory cable, you should be OK.


STOC 372 said:
Compounding everything is with all of my messing with the cruise cable I've put a slight bend in the inner cable right where it starts retracting into the outer sheath, which is making it even more resistant to initial retraction:(
Click to expand...
I think I caused a small kink in my CC cable too. I know what you're talking about. It'll still work. These CC's have something like 35lbs. of pulling force.

If you need to use bead chains, it's not the end of the world. It usually only affects the initial engagement, then settles out. You'll love it. Keep going!

Matt
 
Last edited:
It *is* affecting the full throttle range of the factory cable though. The only thing allowing me to reach WOT is the flexing of the bead chain.
I'm not worried about the kink in the cable stopping the cruise servo from pulling the cable in. The problem is it's making it more difficult for the cable to retract when I apply throttle with the factory cable. Instead of retracting it just wants to bend.

The whole problem is I made my arm so long I have too much travel now. I'm gonna see if I can attach the cable lower on the arm though. I think I can do it without removing the carbs again.
It looks like you guys have a lot more room on the 1300 than we do on the 1100's. Clearance is super tight between the frame crossmember and the throtle cables/bracket/pulley.
 
Last edited:
Mike,

You may want to do a search and see if there are any posts on the Audiovox CC on the 1100. I remember people talking about it. You should be able to hook up the cable to the carbs for the Rostra the same as the Audiovox. I have the Rostra on my 1300 and have the chain. It only has two balls on it though. I do not have any problems with slack and the Rostra cable goes onto the sheath. I used the info for the 1300 that is in the Tech section under Rostra CC.

Yes, after you pull the tank and air box on the 1300, there is all kinds of room to work.

Without VSS, yes, I would think you will need to go with the magnet kit.

I am also using the Gold Wing Backlit control.
 
Success! I was able to reposition my cruise cable connection lower on my throttle arm, thus reducing the travel. I now have just a touch of slack at idle and can reach WOT no problem. Cruise cable is also retracting nicely into the outer sheath. Did it all without removing the carbs too:)
Another milestone - I put the bike back together enough to see that it actually still runs;)
Still need to wire up my magnetic speed pickup (no VSS on the ST1100 without ABS). I ordered a 250-3592 switch with the cruise, which is the surface mount one some have used. I don't have time to mess with it right now, so I'm just gonna mount it to the gray plastic just behind the left fairing pocket. I may eventually do one of the fancier switch installations. I really want to get left hand operation with my hand still on the bars though. I have a bad right shoulder and one of the main reasons I got the cruise was to rest my right arm on long slab rides. Would like to do set/resume/accell/coast with my left hand.
 
MIKE - Glad you got it sorted out. Because of the 'arm' and my inability to drill 'straight' holes, I went with the MCCruise which has a nice CIU to deal with the cable situation. They now sell the CIU as a separate item, but it ain't cheap!
 
Yeah, good to hear its all coming together - especially the part about it still running! ;) That CIU ([throttle] Cable Interface Unit) that Phil mentioned is the coolest thing.

I was at about the same stage as Mike when I realized a fundamental difference between using a CC on a car versus a motorcycle (I'm not the sharpest tool in the tool shed :rolleyes:). In a car, when you set the speed, you then move your foot away from the gas pedal, and just steer. On a bike, you set the speed, but wouldn't you know it, you can't take your hand away (for too long).. you still gotta steer! To make matters worse, the grip is moving underneath your hand, so you can't hold on to that either! Quandry.:p: But somehow, with a light grip, it all works out. :)

Matt
 
Hah! I temporarily hooked everything up and ran the diagnostic on the cruise -passed with flying colors! Should be able to test ride this weekend.
 
st13fundred said:
Yeah, good to hear its all coming together - especially the part about it still running! ;) That CIU ([throttle] Cable Interface Unit) that Phil mentioned is the coolest thing.

I was at about the same stage as Mike when I realized a fundamental difference between using a CC on a car versus a motorcycle (I'm not the sharpest tool in the tool shed :rolleyes:). In a car, when you set the speed, you then move your foot away from the gas pedal, and just steer. On a bike, you set the speed, but wouldn't you know it, you can't take your hand away (for too long).. you still gotta steer! To make matters worse, the grip is moving underneath your hand, so you can't hold on to that either! Quandry.:p: But somehow, with a light grip, it all works out. :)

Matt
Click to expand...

When I use my cruise, I just use my left hand on the bar while I give my right hand some rest. If I feel a gust of wind or see a truck coming, I will just put my right hand on the bar end weight.

Glad to hear you got everything working. Enjoy your Rostra CC:) I love mine on my 1300. Having the R Hand controls is very nice.
 
I have a question about connecting the magnetic speed pickup. Where is the best place procedure to attach the magnets? I think I will connect the magnets to the rear brake disc, but haven't figured out where or how to mount the magnets. How many magnets do I need? I read a post where a fellow purchased magnets and attached them to the hex bolts that hold the disc to the rear wheel, but didn't give me any details as to how the magnets attached. I wish I could locate some washer-shaped magnets that could attach to the bolt.
 
Each bolt has a hole (it a hex shaped hole that is the socket for a hex wrench) into each hole a magnet is inserted...no glue, no welding- it's a magnet for Christ sake, it'll stay in place...that's what magnets do!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom