Rostra Cruise control issue

[cdnemsguy]

I have completed installing the Rostra CC and I am trying to do the self diagnostic test procedure as per the install manual. I cannot get it into Diag mode with the LED light, as the light stays on. The troubleshooting for the LED staying on has 3 different solutions, all of which i have tried to no avail. I have the Rostra Global Cruise with the 250-3592 control switch. Anyone have a similar issue after the install or a solution?

 

[cdnemsguy]

Bump. Any electronic or Rostra experts out there? I only have until June to get this figured...maybe mid April I am hoping.

 

[wkovacovich]

Bump. Any electronic or Rostra experts out there? I only have until June to get this figured...maybe mid April I am hoping.

Not an expert but I have successfully installed this cruise control on my NT 700 with a different control switch than yours (250-3742). What positions have you set your programming switches to? What color is the diagnostic LED? How many relays were required for your installation?

 

[cdnemsguy]

Not an expert but I have successfully installed this cruise control on my NT 700 with a different control switch than yours (250-3742). What positions have you set your programming switches to? What color is the diagnostic LED? How many relays were required for your installation?

I have the dip switches as follows:
1-off
2-off
3-on
4-on
5-on
6-on
7-on
8-off
9-off
10-on
11-off
12-off (Tried this both ways but my switch is an open circuit one)

Red LED in the box for diagnostic

2 Relays. I put a relay into the system to turn on the engage light, triggered by the orange wire from the control box, and 2, a normally closed relay for the violet wire that was the negative brake wire, even though I do not have LED bulbs in the system.I have also tried to ground that directly.

 

[wkovacovich]

Cdnemsguy, is the diagnostic led off when the ignition and cruise control switches are off? What is the status of the leds on the control switch (do either ever come on)? With the ignition on, does the on off switch turn the diagnostic led on and off?

It's been about a year since I installed mine and I remember it being a little "fussy" to get into diagnostics... maybe something to do with the length of time of the switch presses required. Another thought is battery voltage. Are you maintaining the battery as troubleshooting can take a toll on the battery voltage level?

When this install is sorted and working I believe you're going to enjoy this cruise. I really like mine!

 

[cdnemsguy]

Cdnemsguy, is the diagnostic led off when the ignition and cruise control switches are off? What is the status of the leds on the control switch (do either ever come on)? With the ignition on, does the on off switch turn the diagnostic led on and off?

It's been about a year since I installed mine and I remember it being a little "fussy" to get into diagnostics... maybe something to do with the length of time of the switch presses required. Another thought is battery voltage. Are you maintaining the battery as troubleshooting can take a toll on the battery voltage level?

When this install is sorted and working I believe you're going to enjoy this cruise. I really like mine!

The LED is off normally, and when i try to put it into diag mode by turning the ignition on, then press/hold the R/A button and hit the On button, the LED lights and stays on, when it says it should go off. I cant get it past there. Also when I ran the bike to try it on the center stand, I can only activate the cruise by the R/A button, and it appears the S/A button does nothing. I have function tested the switch and both are working with power right to the cruise module when pushed. I am a bit stumped here. I have left my battery tender hooked at all times and tested the voltage with is over 12.

 

[T_C]

a normally closed relay for the violet wire that was the negative brake wire, even though I do not have LED bulbs in the system.I have also tried to ground that directly.

And do you have 12v + on the NO side of the brake realy? Of course this wouldnot stop you from entering diag mode, I dont; think. Been too long since I installed...

Try eliminating the first relay, maybe temporarily remove the 2nd (led brake light) relay too. Use a test lead and run the brake light wire as it's supposed to be.

 

[cdnemsguy]

Issue is fixed, for future reference i will explain, or try to as it still does not make 100% sense. Initially on the install the dip switch settings on #12 was set for a normally closed control switch. I found i was wrong with that and was using a NO switch so I changed #12. There was no effect. The other 2 issues was a bad ground on the main unit, or the -brake not seeing ground. I confirmed those 2 were not a problem. After all 3 items were corrected and switch 12 was set, the unit still did not function properly, no S/A function. Solution...I read on another forum after an exhaustive search and badgering everyone I knew and didn't know, that whenever a dip switch is changed on the unit, the power has to be totally disconnected from the unit and entire bike, aka disconnect one of the battery terminals. I still don't understand fully why just turning off the key would not have the same effect as all the power is keyed, but magically it worked! I am far from an electrical guru but normally do well with this type wiring and issue. Feel free to chime in if any of this makes sense in the electrical world, as it doesn't to me. I had called the Rostra tech support and discussed the issue, and to totally cut the power was not mentioned. I am not even sure if he knew this. Oh well I am so happy it works...now to wait for all the snow and ice to go away.

 

[cdnemsguy]

So an update and report on the Rostra...Awesome!!! It works just like in a cage. I have since installed 3 more and with each one gets easier and all work flawlessly. Riders are happy; infact i have switched out an audiovox unit and now the rider is so happy. No more dropping speed, needing more vacuum etc. I throw it out there that if anyone is installing a unit and has issue, please PM me and I can most likely help, just as others on these forums have helped me. Later folks and safe riding!

 

[drseth]

Glad you figured out the ground issue and the dip switch setting. Did you need a pulse reducer or did it work ok without one? I did an install on my ST1100, but used a separate speed sensor with magnets attached to rear wheel, and it works fine. I also did an install on my PC800, but it engages and works for a while, but cuts off intermittently. I tapped into the VSS wire on this. I tried adjusting gain, pulses per mile (19300 seems to work best), and timer settings, but still have issues. I used a relay on the ST1100, having LED tail lights on the GIVI top case, but the PC800, the diagnostics all work, following the troubleshooting guide. I ordered a pulse reducer, so hopefully that will work.

Any suggestions?

 

[cdnemsguy]

Did you need a pulse reducer or did it work ok without one?

Yes when you sense off the VSS you need the pulse divider.

I did an install on my ST1100, but used a separate speed sensor with magnets attached to rear wheel, and it works fine.

Yes sensing off the aux. speed sensor does not require a divider.

As far as cutting out, the diagnostics wouldn't show that and I would think your problem comes from a bad connection if it "works for awhile". The first 2 wires and switches I would check would be the brake - (violet) wire to ensure it is seeing ground after the switch is activated, and that your brake switch is not too tight that it intermittently hits while riding. The next suspect wire would be the light green wire that is from the clutch switch. Make sure the clutch switch is not too sensitive that it triggers while riding. That's where I would start the search as those are the 2 circuits that cause the CC to cut out once engaged. Other than that the grounds are very important as in all DC electrical. Let us know if you find anything.

 

[T_C]

I used a relay on the ST1100, having LED tail lights on the GIVI top case

You only need the extra brake relay if you have switched to all LED brake lights. A mixture of LED and incandescent will work as normal for a cruise control.

 

[drseth]

I am trying to get my PC800 Rostra Cruise Control from randomly cutting off. I tried getting answers on the PC800 forum, but, apparently, that forum is basically inactive. I tapped into the VSS for the speed sensor, instead of using the magnet pickup, and have been trying all of the different gains, Pulses per minute, and timer settings. Not sure how many pulses per minute, I bought a pulse reducer and installed it yesterday. The cruise would not engage, even at 55 mph, so I am thinking that maybe the tach wire signal is dirty, and, perhaps, disconnecting it might be the solution.

Any suggestions?

 

[T_C]

Any suggestions?

Did you try the diagnostics at then end of the install manual?

Without knowing the PPM your VSS puts out I can't help you with the pulse divider. Sorry.

 

[cdnemsguy]

I would think a few things here, like did you change the dip switches to reflect the vss source? number 10 that is. Also after you change the dip switch you have to disconnect the battery, not just the power through the key. That didnt make sense to me but worked so ? Also I dont think the pulse divider setting are critical to activate the CC, they are for the gain and sensing which would change the surging and speed control, but should still allow the cc to work. I would look at the dip switch settings, especially 10. Then look at all the connections again for the intermittent cutout. I responded above on your cutting out issue.

 

[drseth]

A followup: I removed the pulse divider, set the gain to extra low, PPM to 10,000 Pulses per Mile, V8 Low timer setting, VSS square wave, Manual Transmission, and Open Switch. I CUT THE Dark Blue Tachometer Signal, and everything works fine now. I had read on the Goldwing Facts Forum where the tachometer signal was dirty, and to use it, you would have to put a filter so it would work properly. It engages at 25 mph, and up to 45 mph, I notice a little surging, which is modulated by applying a little throttle to smooth things out.

If I need to disengage the cruise, I can either turn the switch off or tap either brake.

Since I now have a pulse divider I no longer need, I am thinking about installing another Rostra Cruise Control on my 2012 Honda NC700X, which requires a pulse divider.

 

[drseth]

I would think a few things here, like did you change the dip switches to reflect the vss source? number 10 that is. Also after you change the dip switch you have to disconnect the battery, not just the power through the key. That didnt make sense to me but worked so ? Also I dont think the pulse divider setting are critical to activate the CC, they are for the gain and sensing which would change the surging and speed control, but should still allow the cc to work. I would look at the dip switch settings, especially 10. Then look at all the connections again for the intermittent cutout. I responded above on your cutting out issue.

Thanks for the reply. The culprit that was causing the random disengagement turned out to be the tachometer signal was interfering with Cruise, so I clipped the wire, and all now is good. I went back to extra low gain, 10,000 Pulses Per Mile, V8 Low Timer Setting, Square Wave, Manual Trans, and Open Circuit. It engages at speeds as low as 25 mph, and holds speed up and down some small hills. Tomorrow I will put it to the test on a trip to the mountains. The downside to clipping the tachometer signal is that there is a possibility of an engine overspeed, but I have never had a problem, tapping the brake when slowing down. A post on the Goldwing Facts Forum indicated that a filter is needed to clean up the signal for it to work properly, but I am going to pass on it.

 

[nikpoly1]

I have installed Rostra 250-1223 Universal Aftermarket car 5 months ago, everything went well.
But two months ago, I have had a problem with the rostra control 250-3742
The problem is, that it cannot light up easily, it lights up after many attempts (led flashes, and does not light up). You can help me?
I would appreciate. Thank you very much

 

[kiltman]

I have installed Rostra 250-1223 Universal Aftermarket car 5 months ago, everything went well.
But two months ago, I have had a problem with the rostra control 250-3742
The problem is, that it cannot light up easily, it lights up after many attempts (led flashes, and does not light up). You can help me?
I would appreciate. Thank you very much

What bike do you have it on? 1100 or 1300. There is a test you can do to check which part of the system is faulty. On the servo is a black rectangle plug, remove it. Press the resume button as you turn the ignition to the on position (don’t start the engine) you should see the red LED light glow in the inspection hole where the rubber cap was. Release the resume button the light should go out. Press the “set” button the light should come on. Apply the brake, the light should come on. I have the speed sensor mounted on the rear wheel I spin the rear wheel and the light flashes. If the light doesn’t come on for any of the tests you have a issue in that circuit.
One of the common issues is with the brake lights. If there are LED bulbs in the circuit, the computer will think the brake light is on and shut the system down so you can’t activate the cruise, (you will need to wire in a relay in the brake circuit). Check your brake levers to make sure they aren’t slightly stuck which can also stop the cruise from working.
Sometimes the connection to the speed sensor can be faulty and the cruise may not engage.
When you do the test let us know which action the light doesn’t come on.