Riser problems

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Pop-Pop

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Joined
Feb 29, 2020
Messages
2,532
Age
68
Location
Pagosa Springs Colorado
Bike
1996 ST 1100
Trying to install 2” rizers. The throttle and brake cables are too tight. Is there a way to disconnect and reroute them? Im shocked they are so tight. I thought the rizers would “just pop on”!
 
I’m interested in doing the same thing. Hopefully someone will respond with the answer.

Joe
 
I assume you are talking about the brake lines and not cables. Check down on the front forks and see if there is a clamp sort of hidden away at the triple tree that you can loosen and get some slack. As far as the throttle cables go, you'll have to pull the tank 'shelter' and see if you can reroute them a little bit to gain some more slack.
 
Uncle Phil said:
I assume you are talking about the brake lines and not cables. Check down on the front forks and see if there is a clamp sort of hidden away at the triple tree that you can loosen and get some slack. As far as the throttle cables go, you'll have to pull the tank 'shelter' and see if you can reroute them a little bit to gain some more slack.
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Thanks. I already pulled one clamp off the brake line and think it will work. No, its the throttle brake handle cables. Tighter than me in a dollar store! I removed the air filter cover but the cables are tight to the filter housing. Was hoping i could re rout them over the filter cover but there is too much in the way and they r too tight.
 
I think I routed mine behind the triple clamp when I did 1" risers. Then I put on heli bars and the brake line was just a tad too short but the rest were still okay with reroutes. FWIW, I just replaced the line from the master to the ABS module with a slightly longer braided line and did a reverse bleed with a syringe with great results. Yours being non-ABS (I think?) should be as easy or even easier if you get a longer hose.
 
Im an idiot. Its the kill/ starter wire and the throttle cable. I think i actuslly have to disconnect the throttle cable, reroute it and somehow get the whole kill/ start box off and fit it thru the forks
Am i nuts?
 
Smudgemo said:
I think I routed mine behind the triple clamp when I did 1" risers. Then I put on heli bars and the brake line was just a tad too short but the rest were still okay with reroutes. FWIW, I just replaced the line from the master to the ABS module with a slightly longer braided line and did a reverse bleed with a syringe with great results. Yours being non-ABS (I think?) should be as easy or even easier if you get a longer hose.
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A “ reverse bleet” what? Are you a surgeon?
 
No, but I stayed in a Holiday Inn once.
I pushed the air back up to the master by adding fluid at the caliper rather than forcing it down through all the ABS lines to the caliper. There are three lines on my non-abs bike and I'm told 18 on the ABS bike, so a job I was NOT looking forward to was a piece o cake.
 
If you are 'careful', you can remove the top of the triple tree and route the cables as you like, IIRC.
It requires removing the big nut and loosening the fork allen bolts at the top - make sure you have the front forks 'scotched' so that they don't drop down.
 
When I replaced the OEM risers with taller ones under the Helibars, I relocated all of my cables, wires, and hoses to behind the upper triple clamp without removing any body parts or accessing the bottom end of anything. I was able to pass both master cylinders through the fork tubes, and disconnect and reconnect the throttle and choke cables just at the handlebars.

IMG_0450.JPG
 
When I experimented with 2" risers I removed the brake hose clamp on the fork tube between the upper and lower triple trees. Then there was more slack to be had at the hose clamp on the bottom of the lower triple tree. The throttle cables were routed around the outside of the air filter assembly. I ran then underneath it and had enough slack.

RT
 
Larry Fine said:
When I replaced the OEM risers with taller ones under the Helibars, I relocated all of my cables, wires, and hoses to behind the upper triple clamp without removing any body parts or accessing the bottom end of anything. I was able to pass both master cylinders through the fork tubes, and disconnect and reconnect the throttle and choke cables just at the handlebars.

IMG_0450.JPG
Click to expand...

That is exactly what i was planning on looking up tonight! Thanks!
 
Uncle Phil said:
If you are 'careful', you can remove the top of the triple tree and route the cables as you like, IIRC.
It requires removing the big nut and loosening the fork allen bolts at the top - make sure you have the front forks 'scotched' so that they don't drop down.
Click to expand...
Every time i try “scotching” i wake up with a major hang over!
 
rwthomas1 said:
When I experimented with 2" risers I removed the brake hose clamp on the fork tube between the upper and lower triple trees. Then there was more slack to be had at the hose clamp on the bottom of the lower triple tree. The throttle cables were routed around the outside of the air filter assembly. I ran then underneath it and had enough slack.

RT
Click to expand...
That is a real good idea! Im trying again tomorrow after an eve of service manualling!
Whats funny is that im doing all this on the busy streets of boston and the meter maids really arent digging me! They growl and keep walking!
 
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