questions about doing a ST1100 rear wheel swap

Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
4,857
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
If I'm swapping the rear wheel from another ST1100, can I just swap the drive spider from the current wheel into the new wheel and be done with it?

I'm familiar with the cush drives and aluminum inserts associated with those, and the retaining ring that you rotate to access them, but its been years since I've been in there so my memory is a little weak. I think the drive spider just pulls out without removing anything else, right? And there's a thrust washer underneath it, that I think is just a common part and not a shim of any kind that needs measurement.

Is there anything that needs to be done to make sure the spline drive components are mating properly between the wheel and final drive? I don't want to forget something and cause the splines to start wearing funny.

TIA

Doug
 
Doug - If the spider used matches the rear 'chunk' there should be no problems.
The 'spider' in the wheel does just pull out.
If the holes in the aluminum inserts are oval, you need to replace them.
DO NOT PUT ANY LUBE ON THE STUDS ON THE SPIDER (Don't ask me how I know that! ;))
I'd just look at both wheels and see which one has the better aluminum inserts and swap them if needed.
I'd also take a good look at the wheel bearings in the 'new' wheel also just to be safe.
Put good old moly on them and you should be good to go!
 
Everything Uncle Phil said.
I wish those 'rubbers and aluminums' weren't so darn expensive at 5 of each needed.
Easy on the moly. Just 'paint' it on.
 
UP, what happens when you do that? I've seen that mentioned in various posts over the years but no one ever mentions the consequences...
When you go to pull the rear wheel, the spider tends to stay in the 'chunk' and you end up with a mess on your hands.
You can't get the wheel out and it is very difficult to get the spider back into the wheel.
What I do is simple -
1. Take the rear caliper stopper bolt out of the caliper.
2. Scotch the rear wheel so it does not drop.
3. Pull the axle all the way out.
4. Swing the rear caliper out of the way.
5. Reinsert the rear axle.
6. Then as you slide the wheel on the axle out of the 'chunk' you can see if the spider is coming out of the wheel.
7. If it is, with one leg of a pair of pliers or a bent screw driver you can gently pry it out of the chunk.

I do all my ST1100 rears like that now just to err on the side of caution.
It adds very little time to the process but can save you hours - trust me on that one!
Someone on this board put me onto some hand pump 'airbags' for scotching the tire.
Those things are as handy as a pocket on a shirt and inexpensive -

 
In general, If in doubt about fitment, check the microfiches for the parts for the two years of bike involved. If they are the same part number, then you are good to go.

I believe that it is a good idea to keep the same spline pair together (which is what I think you are trying to do).
 
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