Painting panniers and a fender - volume question

Josh_ST

I love my 2 wheeled therapy machine!
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Joined
Feb 21, 2022
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401
Location
Marysville, OH
Bike
2003 Honda ST1300
Hoping there are a few paint experts on the forum, I need to repaint my panniers and a front fender and have no idea how much paint I need.

Looking at Eastwood, as Color Rite is VERY proud of their paint! ($48 vs $173 for a quart!)

Also, I presume there's a clear coat on these bikes as well?

Or, is my job small enough that I would be better off with an aerosol can(or 2?)? I have a compressor, and I have painted some steel closet doors with it before. But never a car/motorcycle.
 
Josh - Having used Colorrite, they are expensive but their colors are dead on.
They do sell a clear coat - two versions in fact with one lasting a lot longer.
I've used their rattle cans with good success but it takes a little work.
With rattle cans, there is orange peel that you have to work out.
1500 grain sandpaper and polishing compound does it very well.
If you can shoot with a sprayer and not get orange peel, that will save you a lot of time.
I did the 'arrest me red' for ST1100s which is a two color with a clear coat.
Had to sand/polish each of the three coats after shooting them with a rattle can.
But the final result cannot be told from the factory job. ;)
 
You're 03 is over 20 years old so colorrite will match a new bike color, but probably going to be a shade different than your other oem parts.
 
You're 03 is over 20 years old so colorrite will match a new bike color, but probably going to be a shade different than your other oem parts.
Understood, not trying to have a show bike, just not a rolling rainbow:) The only front fender I could source at the time is maroon, so it needs a respray, and unfortunately the panniers have suffered greatly in the toy hauler and have gotten scratched up, and I had a strap fail leading to deep enough gouges that will require bondo to fill the scrapes:(

Definitely need to figure out a strategy to protect the bike better while riding in the toy hauler.
 
You're 03 is over 20 years old so colorrite will match a new bike color, but probably going to be a shade different than your other oem parts.
What is surprising is that on my 97s, the 'red' color still matches and so does the wineberry on my 02.
Now mind you mine are garage kept and covered at night when I am on a trip.
When an ST (particularly the ST1100), is left outside in the sunshine all the time, the paint will indeed fade.
 
1 quart of paint and their respective clear coat, Eastwood is $80 less than Color Rite. $162 vs $244:think1:

Not sure if it's worth the price difference or not. Plus I can blame my lack of experience if it doesn't turn out right :rofl1:
 
1 quart of paint and their respective clear coat, Eastwood is $80 less than Color Rite. $162 vs $244:think1:

Not sure if it's worth the price difference or not. Plus I can blame my lack of experience if it doesn't turn out right :rofl1:
Josh - Suit yourself but if it doesn't match, don't be surprised ... ;)
Eastwood may be fine (never heard of them but that don't mean much), but in the scheme of things $80 over a few years don't amount to much.
At least Colorrite will warranty the match - I got some paint and it didn't quite match and they mixed me up a new batch and sent it free of charge.
 
Went to Eastwoods suite they have good advice on how to paint, and what paint to use. Me not a painter by any means, but one thing I have found is buy a cheap can and paint some thing you can throw away. That advice was given to me by a body man .
 
I have used a pint to do a lot of parts, A quart will do the whole bike. If it is the panniers and a fender a pint will do fine.
I usually try to get plenty of extra though for mistakes and redo.
If you go to Amazon you can get a airbrush kit with a pump that doesn't cost much, for spraying a single color, a cheap one works just fine, I prefer the gravity feed. The supplies that you need to use a airbrush aren't crazy expensive.
You'll need reducer, panel wipe, rattle can of primer works just fine, I use a 2-part clear coat and of course sand paper, rubbing compound. I use a small paint brush for cleaning the airbrush and shop towels from good old Costco
What worked for me was I started to paint everything, even the dog still gets skittish around me now. I used a box fan to blow the fumes away and did not need any permanent place to use. Packed up when I was done for the night
If you go to the body shops and paint stores you can get paint sometimes for free to practice with.
 
1 quart of paint and their respective clear coat, Eastwood is $80 less than Color Rite. $162 vs $244:think1:

Not sure if it's worth the price difference or not. Plus I can blame my lack of experience if it doesn't turn out right :rofl1:
Bought an spray can of blue pearl and 2k clear from Eastwood for my beemer, perfect match. Did one side case and a small trim panel. Enough to do another side case. The clear came out perfect but weeks later started to shrink, orange peal appearing. That's not suppose to happen to a clear with hardener. Still looks good. bmw case1.jpg
 
I had a strap fail leading to deep enough gouges that will require bondo to fill the scrapes:(

Definitely need to figure out a strategy to protect the bike better while riding in the toy hauler.
I've always gone for redundancy - multiple straps so if one or even two fail on one side, the bike is still held upright and immobile.
 
Hoping there are a few paint experts on the forum, I need to repaint my panniers and a front fender and have no idea how much paint I need.

Looking at Eastwood, as Color Rite is VERY proud of their paint! ($48 vs $173 for a quart!)

Also, I presume there's a clear coat on these bikes as well?

Or, is my job small enough that I would be better off with an aerosol can(or 2?)? I have a compressor, and I have painted some steel closet doors with it before. But never a car/motorcycle.
Based on your description, I would go with the aerosol spray and top it off with the clear coat. After the color coat, wet sand the imperfections out with 600 then 1200 and 1500 grit wet or dry paper. You can get great results if you don't skip the wet sanding steps. After a couple clear coats, wet sand with 1500. Keep the sanding wet! It will turn dull but will buff out by hand using Maguire's or a 3M polishing compound. If after the clear coat sanding, and there are still some "orange peel" showing, hit it with another coat of clear. You should be fine with the result if you're diligent with the sanding. Sanding is the secret sauce!
 
I think I have the cheaper purple HVLP gun from HF in my stash. But would need a dryer on the compressor. Old one got busted in my move :(

It's just funny that in my mind, if I had aerosol cans, I'd just hang them from a tree and spray, but with the compressor setup, I'm thinking tarp based paint booth, ventilation, etc...
 
I have been a Windy Urtnowski follower for about 6 years. Started with a GS 1100E riding video....Anyway... This guy....have shared emails and phone conversations.... is an almost amazing painter, surface prep, harbor freight spray guns, mostly outside....summer and freezing cold....Rutherford NJ.

This vid....just as an example

You tube....He has thousands of vids...posts daily.....lots of stuff.... Easy to find topics...as you know...a name and quotes'

In this case on YT Windy Urtnowski "painting"
 
I have been using compressors for a while and painted outside on sunny days and overcast because -as a hobbyist and cheap- I don't have a paint booth. The biggest part I can paint inside is a gas tank. I think the biggest misconception is the air pressure used is not high, I use 15 lbs with both my touch up gun and the larger opening airbrush.
The nice thing about the compressor is I have a lot of aerosol cans in it, using cans will make a very nice finish, every bit as good as anybody's method professional or home owner done. The end is in the details and finish work.
I like using automotive paint because there is a bunch of stuff to restore out in the world.
 
I think I have the cheaper purple HVLP gun from HF in my stash. But would need a dryer on the compressor. Old one got busted in my move :(

It's just funny that in my mind, if I had aerosol cans, I'd just hang them from a tree and spray, but with the compressor setup, I'm thinking tarp based paint booth, ventilation, etc...
If your garage isn't attached to the house your ok to spray in there. No need for tarps but keep the wind down. Sprayed many parts, cars and boats in my garage. Need a good mask. Spray 2 coats and get out. 15min or so the paint will be dry, open a door or window and air out. For small stuff it isn't too bad. inspect and light sand any imperfections and recoat. Check dry time before clear coat, very important. Apply 2 coats of clear and check dry time before sanding. You can usually recoat up to 8-12 hours with out sanding but inspect , there will be a few spots of dust so sand lightly any imperfections and clear coat 2 more times.
 
I've done a couple top boxes for the RT and one of those will go on the GSA now since it has a Blue Metallic color - used the colorrite rattle cans for primer, base coats, color coats and clear coats. Takes some practice but can come out really well.

Final color coat before clear coats:

IMG_20240302_140905.jpg

Clear coats and orange peel showing... before wet-sanding:

IMG_20240302_144409.jpg

Final results:

20240303_083339.jpg

IMG_20240531_154219.jpg
 
I think I have the cheaper purple HVLP gun from HF in my stash. But would need a dryer on the compressor. Old one got busted in my move :(

It's just funny that in my mind, if I had aerosol cans, I'd just hang them from a tree and spray, but with the compressor setup, I'm thinking tarp based paint booth, ventilation, etc...
You could build your own dryer if have the time. These used to be fairly inexpensive to build but with today’s prices it’s a crap shoot. http://sawdustandfilings.blogspot.com/2011/05/mr-compressor-meets-franzinator.html?m=1
 
I have painted here in WA without a dryer but it depends on how big of a project, I don't do large projects, But the humidity levels I experience are nothing like the south east.
 
When an ST (particularly the ST1100), is left outside in the sunshine all the time, the paint will indeed fade.
Worse since '96 (introduction of water based colors), really bad on newer models...
My GF's '07 NT700VA is about to receive a new front fender... its R319M Bloom Red Metallic appears quite similar to the R151CU Candy Graceful Red of my '00 ST1100...
Last w/e we unpacked her new fender and had it aside the bike for the first time... and woah... her bike has faded to a grayish maroon... :redface:
 
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