Old Bike, new problem.

Joined
Jun 22, 2015
Messages
11
Location
San Diego; i.e. France
Bike
'04 ST1300
Hello all, I am having a problem with my ST1100 that I am hoping someone(s) here can help out with. I have a 94 ST with about 71,000 miles on it. (We have put over 10,000 mile on it this year.) I think it has had about 10 previous owners. I don't really know its history. We (my wife and I) bought it to ride around Europe for the year and will be reselling it when we leave. Up until this week everything has been more or less fine. It has been running strong and has been fine in the flat places and in the Alps. However, all of a sudden it is refusing to start, as though the battery is dead, and when I push start it, the Voltage meter swings all over the place and the motor jumps and pulses and stalls. Frankly, and I'll admit this up front, I am not a motorcycle mechanic and I have limited knowledge of how all of the various systems are interacting. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
here is a YouTube video of it in action http://youtu.be/T6-A1CHKId0
 
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Start with checking/cleaning battery and electrical connections. Inspect/repair connectors from alternator to regulator. Check connections to main relay. Load test battery (many auto repair places can test) to determine if it needs replaced.

Keep us posted.
 
+1 This shouldn't be too hard to rectify ( no pun intended ). You can always disconnect the battery and jumper in another battery, even a car battery to see if the battery is the problem. But a bad charging system could have caused the battery to fail.

If you have a voltmeter, if you jumper in another battery and get it started, you can then measure the battery voltage to check the charging circuit ( 13-15 volts ). And +1 to checking the big connector for corrosion on the main relay. Also check the two connectors from the Stator and the connector on the rectifier/regulator.

Have fun - Having a voltmeter to track down the cause of the problem will probably be a must. If you don't have one, you should be able to pick a decent digital one up for about $20.
 
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I've had trouble before with the ground cable, because of the way it is routed, working loose. Also, your battery might be dead - which would be pretty easy to check. I've had one die when I put the ST1100 up on the center stand (plates shorted out). I'd pull the battery - under the left side panel - you'll have to remove the left pannier, the seat, the big screw or bolt in the bottom center of the panel, and the little black plastic screw at the top rear - if it still has one. Gently pry the panel loose (there's a tab at the right end you need to watch) and you'll be at the battery. I'd carry somewhere to have it checked if you don't have the means to do it.
 
It's acting as if it's a loose connection.
Ditto...

But could be symptoms of a wiring meltdown...

Remove left pannier, seat and left side panel for checking battery terminals and a visual of the wiring harness, stator and VRR connectors...
 
image.jpgimage.jpgOk, thanks for the quick responses! I checked connections and everything looks pretty crappy from my point of view. I "cleaned" them and put them back in the right places, but not much I can do about those at the moment. I jump started it again and it's not doing that weird voltage spike and road fine. I'm out in the middle of France, and not near anything I can walk to. I'll order a new battery and start there.
 
image.jpgimage.jpgOk, thanks for the quick responses! I checked connections and everything looks pretty crappy from my point of view. I "cleaned" them and put them back in the right places, but not much I can do about those at the moment. I jump started it again and it's not doing that weird voltage spike and road fine. I'm out in the middle of France, and not near anything I can walk to. I'll order a new battery and start there.

Yikes:eek:.....you may have BARELY dodged the bullet with the looks of those plug-ins! Getting that hot, the brass has lost some of its continuity for a good blade connections. A new batt. won't solve that issue! The batt. in there will likely come back up to a good charge while riding, IF that connection shown is cleaned up good with electrical cleaner when you get somewhere to be able to purchase some. Your logistical dileama, may be forced to doing individual plug-in connections for each wire. Least that may keep from toasting the alt. stator and having the bikes charging system tottally 'down' for any selling re-course;).
 
Definitely MUST replace all those connectors, cutting back the wire to clean, unburned strands. I see in the second pic that the red 3P connector, carrying the stator wiring, has already been removed. That's good. One less connector to go bad. That red wire to the VRR is no longer serviceable either, so replacement of all those spades would be a good idea. Failure to correct this, as Brant said, will be much costlier when the alternator/VRR burn out.

On second look, I don't see the red VRR wire on the 6P connector. Already removed?
 
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Yikes:eek:.....you may have BARELY dodged the bullet with the looks of those plug-ins!
<humph!>... sometimes I just hate being right... :(

I see in the second pic that the red 3P connector, carrying the stator wiring, has already been removed.
Very well observed, but the type of connectors used there (chandelier terminals) are just another disaster waiting to happen, as their highly prone to rust!
So those as well must be swapped for some automotive type connectors.

Most likely the whole issue started right there (3P stator connector), and whoever did the temporarily fix just didn't finish the job by attending the other connectors in need...

Anyway, there are some quite good motorcycle mechs in France, dunno where you're currently located, but I could crank up a friend of mine in Paris for looking up/recommending a shop near you?
 
<humph!>... sometimes I just hate being right... :(


Very well observed, but the type of connectors used there (chandelier terminals) are just another disaster waiting to happen, as their highly prone to rust!
So those as well must be swapped for some automotive type connectors.

Most likely the whole issue started right there (3P stator connector), and whoever did the temporarily fix just didn't finish the job by attending the other connectors in need...

Anyway, there are some quite good motorcycle mechs in France, dunno where you're currently located, but I could crank up a friend of mine in Paris for looking up/recommending a shop near you?

Ok, tomorrow for automotive connectors. Thanks millions for this help! If what I do doesn't fix anything (likely) it would be great to have a backup. We are living in a small town called Monthodon, which is about 3 hours south of Paris, and about 30min north of Tours, close to Chateau Renault.
 
We are living in a small town called Monthodon, which is about 3 hours south of Paris, and about 30min north of Tours, close to Chateau Renault.
OK, just texted him, lets see what we can network there ;-)
How is your French?
 
image.jpgimage.jpgOk, thanks for the quick responses! I checked connections and everything looks pretty crappy from my point of view. I "cleaned" them and put them back in the right places, but not much I can do about those at the moment. I jump started it again and it's not doing that weird voltage spike and road fine. I'm out in the middle of France, and not near anything I can walk to. I'll order a new battery and start there.

Gee, I think you may have found the cause of your problem. But you may have a bad battery as a result. But it could still be good. Have the battery charged and then load tested.

BTW, ( I just can't resist ) This is a perfect example to the " If it ain't broke, don't fix it crowd " , of the importance of regular preventable maintenance.
 
We've seen this far too many times before. I'd remove the white connector that replaced the OEM red 3P and just solder those three yellow AC leads from the stator together. Then I'd do the main fuse bypass mod: remove the red lead from the melted main-fuse/starter-relay 4P and connect it directly to the battery's positive post through a heavy duty inline fuse holder with 30A fuse [see the AOW for the 'how to' article]. The red-white lead is visible in the VRR's white 6P (6 slots used, 7 avail). But shows heat damage. If you can remove its spade from the connector to inspect/clean/replace, I'd do that. If not, I suspect that you'd probably be OK for awhile if there doesn't appear to be corrosion creeping up under the red wire's sheathing.

Good luck and keep us posted.

John
via iPhone 6
 
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....BTW, ( I just can't resist ) This is a perfect example to the " If it ain't broke, don't fix it crowd " , of the importance of regular preventable maintenance.

Indeed. Every 21 year old motorcycle needs regular maintenance, especially of known age and usage problems like this. And particularly before a major trip far from home and skilled help.
 
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Indeed. Every 21 year old motorcycle need regular maintenance, especially of known age and usage problems like this.
Yes, but the "bulletproof" image seems to blindfold many... whilst its only reliable if serviced regularly and properly...
 
I must look into doing the ' red wire bypass mod' I think it's called, a stitch in time saves nine as the saying goes.
 
I must look into doing the ' red wire bypass mod' I think it's called, a stitch in time saves nine as the saying goes.
.......guess it's one of the better 'band-aid' fixes, but tottally not necessary if the 'out of site, out of mind' electrical is maintained on occassion;).......and only takes an hour to unplug, clean and inspect and re-install the couple pieces of tupperware:rolleyes::).
 
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OK, news from Paris:

There is a Honda Workshop/Dealer in Tours:
Honda Moto H 37
http://www.h-37.com/
RN10, Les Renardi?res 345 AV Grand Sud 37170 Chambray les Tours
Tel.: 02 47 25 32 32

Normally some gestures should do, the damage itself is self explanatory anyway... ;-)

Hope this helps
Best wishes on getting it fixed soon and an undisturbed continuing of your tour.
 
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