Newbie here.Very grateful for old post on ST1300 Fuel Pump circuit. The diagrams made my life easy for me.By a process of elimination found no continuity between Bank relay and fuel pump relay Not fancying digging into the loom i taped into the wiring with an auxiliary wiring set up and back in business.All is well so far.
No power to fuel pump relay
- Thread starter richie
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jfheath
John Heath
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- Ilkley, W Yorkshire, UK
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- 2013 ST1300 A9
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Glad it got you running again. But if you provided an always on 12v to your relay trigger coil, if you ever drop the bike, the engine will continue to run and will not cut out.
Also - I think that the engine kill switch may not cut the engine. Not sure about that without checking the diagram again.
Ever seen a dog chasing its own tail ?
Yell out if you want some more pointers.
Also - I think that the engine kill switch may not cut the engine. Not sure about that without checking the diagram again.
Ever seen a dog chasing its own tail ?
Yell out if you want some more pointers.
12V power is coming from bank relay,so kills power with ign switch and kill switch,as normal. Lean angle sensor...{Bank sensor] ...would cut power in event of tipping over.I had no continuity to fuel pump relay,so reason why i wired in a new connection between the two.Much better than digging into the loom.
jfheath
John Heath
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2006
- Messages
- 3,062
- Age
- 70
- Location
- Ilkley, W Yorkshire, UK
- Bike
- 2013 ST1300 A9
- 2025 Miles
- 000000
Ok - so I guess that would be the b/w power lead between the two. And that is a good solution. There are a lot of those black/white leads providing power for various devices.
On 'later' ST1300s these are all connected together in a multiway connector - lots of wires going in - non coming out. A metal bus joins all of the wires together. It is yellow or pink coloured and lives somewhere under the headlights. (Diagram says yellow - but I don't know that for a fact).
I believe that earlier models didn't have this, and that connections are made within the loom. (Again an assumption from circuit diagrams).
I don't know when 'earlier' or 'later' is or whether it only applies to the standard or luxury (abs) version. But if it has those yellow connectors, you could be seeing the start of a problem. If they get overloaded or corroded the terminal can get hot and melt the connector housing. Things like coils, injectors, various sensors all rely on the intergitty of that connector. They can get overlaoded if someone has added accessories and simply tapped into something nearby that is live. The total current passing through that connector shoots up and things get hot. (That's not the only cause though).
So if it is an early bike - you have probably found a perfectly good fix. If it is a later bike, you may want to go hunting for theis yellow connector just to check you don't have another issue waiting to bite you.
Someone else may be able to fill in the details with links to the yellow connector. In the meantime - its fixed and is working. Yeeehaah!