No FI light fuel pump not priming Cranks

easy rider

easy rider

Joined
Feb 3, 2008
Messages
172
Age
48
Location
North Wales Uk
Bike
2009 STX1300ABS
Hi

Really need help

I got home from work two days ago turned the bike off to unload luggage

Went to start it turned ignition on No Fi Light fuel pump did not prime cranks no start.

Managed too get it going then today its even worse almost constant no FI light cranks but no fuel pump prime.

Got the bike recovered it started but then just cut out after seconds

Really starting to stress with it now not only got it last october and its been one thing after another now this.
Swapped out fuel pump relay no change

Any ideas what can stop FI light coming on when ignition is turned on and pump not priming
 
Josh_ST said:
Do you have a service manual? Section 5 covers the FI, I'd short out the diag connector and see what codes it has. If the relay is good, maybe briefly supply power straight to the pump? Sounds like it might be toast?

Click to expand...
yes i have one on PDF on my computer. bikes at the garage so see if they get any codes but the FI light should come on and go of when ignition is turned on but i get nothing and no pump cranks no start. if your lucky after a few attempts FI light comes on a normal then goes off and pump primes bike starts then cuts out again.
 
You got nothing to lose.... Fashion a 1 or 2 foot long jumper out of 14 to 16 AWG wire. Strip 1/2" of insulation and twist both ends of the wire strands to a point. Access the white plastic 24 pin wiring connector above the left side valve cover (remove the middle cowl to access the connector). Insert one end of the jumper into the connector where the solid green wire goes into the connector - from the front side towards the headlights. Make sure the jumper contacts the fitting inside the connector that holds the green wire in place. Turn the ignition on and touch the other end of the jumper to the frame or to a bolt tapped into the frame. Listen for the fuel pump to prime.

More than a few of us have brought the fuel pump and ignition circuit back to life by creating a good path for the green wire to ground (earth).

Fixed my electrical problem (headlights, dash lites,horn, turn signals, windshield) | ST1300 Related

60 miles from home yesterday the ground circuit problem happened again. The bike quit at a stop sign and from then on basically nothing electrical in the front half of the bike worked and the bike would not start with high beams on. The engine would start and run with the headlight dip switch on...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
easy rider said:
Hi

Really need help

I got home from work two days ago turned the bike off to unload luggage

Went to start it turned ignition on No Fi Light fuel pump did not prime cranks no start.

Managed too get it going then today its even worse almost constant no FI light cranks but no fuel pump prime.

Got the bike recovered it started but then just cut out after seconds

Really starting to stress with it now not only got it last october and its been one thing after another now this.
Swapped out fuel pump relay no change

Any ideas what can stop FI light coming on when ignition is turned on and pump not priming
Click to expand...
Check for power at fuel cut relay-I bet it's missing.Just like my bike was.ign coils, injectors,PCM, fuel pump all get power from it.I ran a bypass wire from relay to another relay to power it.working good 1700 + miles since repair.burnt terminal in splice connector is culprit.Since learned where it's located (neer pair valve)
 
Bikes at a small local shop at the moment but I think they are out of there depth so getting it back next week. It’s going to my old dealership in Manchester should have stayed with them but after Covid I stayed local.
So stressed I got this bike on finance in October and it’s just had one problem after another and now. I agree with what you say and bank angel sensor also cuts FI plus pump and coils just need someone who knows what to check for. For now my old ST1300 is now back together as temporary transport.
 
Those symptoms are the same as if you try to start the bike with a non-HISS key; no fuel pump prime but will happily turn on the starter button, and all lights work. Have you got more than one key?
 
TerryS said:
Those symptoms are the same as if you try to start the bike with a non-HISS key; no fuel pump prime but will happily turn on the starter button, and all lights work. Have you got more than one key?
Click to expand...
Yes I have two keys and i have tried both, thing is they are not Honda keys so previous owner has had both keys made why i have no idea.
There are a few things to check. Fuse, relays, ignition switch, Bank Angle, I do have a question though i had a another key made which after it was made they told me it was an uncoded key. I wanted this key so i could keep it to use for my panniers and petrol tank so as not to use the ignition key and avoid damage. He said its an uncoded key don't use it in your ignition which of course I have not but would that have had anything to do with it if it's been near the bike.
I know all my issues started before Christmas with idle issues & miss-fires then we did vac hoses map sensor and throttle body sync and it seem to settle down for three weeks then it started to slightly miss then last two days crank no start intermittent followed by crank no start with No FI light and no fule pump power when turning ignition on so its got to be all related. I can't wait to just get my bike back from where it is now so i can do a few checks before I send it off to my old dealer who do know there way around an St1300 and should hopefully be able to help.

Worst case if i swapped ECU off my old St1300 would i just need to get my keys cut uncoded from the current bikes ignition then from my old bike clone copy to the cut keys. Am i right that the ignition just reads the key and communicates with ECU

Thanks
 
I'm sorry that I don't have the time to read through all these posts from begining to end, and may have missed something posted, however, have you checked the 65A fuse? This is part number #24 on "our" parts diagram in the battery section on this side of the pond.
I often find severe corrosion on this metal fuse.
This could cause the symptoms you are having.
Also, have you replaced the fuel pump at any time? And/or the hoses?
It's possible that it could have failed, or has a damaged hose, causing the pressure to bleed off, even though you hear it "prime" sometimes, that does not mean that its holding the pressure.
Just a couple things to check.
Good luck.
 
Igofar said:
I'm sorry that I don't have the time to read through all these posts from begining to end, and may have missed something posted, however, have you checked the 65A fuse? This is part number #24 on "our" parts diagram in the battery section on this side of the pond.
I often find severe corrosion on this metal fuse.
This could cause the symptoms you are having.
Also, have you replaced the fuel pump at any time? And/or the hoses?
It's possible that it could have failed, or has a damaged hose, causing the pressure to bleed off, even though you hear it "prime" sometimes, that does not mean that its holding the pressure.
Just a couple things to check.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks problem is pump does not prime and FI light does not show when ignition is turned on so I guessing coils will have no power either and it just cranks with no start, just Need to get bike back next week off this garage need to check 20 amp fuse and relays
 
easy rider said:
Thanks problem is pump does not prime and FI light does not show when ignition is turned on so I guessing coils will have no power either and it just cranks with no start, just Need to get bike back next week off this garage need to check 20 amp fuse and relays
Click to expand...
What Larry left out, if the fuel pump had been replaced recently, is a problem with some of the hoses shipped w/ these aftermarket pumps. The hoses are not rated for submersion in fuel and fall apart after a few weeks/month. If you have the oem pump, ignore this.

You did not say if you hear the whine of the fuel pump or if it is not running at all when you turn on the ignition. I'd assume no noise at all from the pump. If there are other odd happenings, headlights dim, blinkers work at half brightness, it is most certainly a ground problem as described by @dduelin.
 
Tested my old bike today removed 20 amp fuse for FI Coils & pump and it still cranks so same symptoms. So I bet it’s at that garage with a blown fuse. So something on the circuit has blown it and for it to be intermittently acting like that before it went completely a wire is responsible. So just want my bike back and send to another garage.
For now using my old ST1300 to get from A to B
 
SMSW said:
What Larry left out, if the fuel pump had been replaced recently, is a problem with some of the hoses shipped w/ these aftermarket pumps. The hoses are not rated for submersion in fuel and fall apart after a few weeks/month. If you have the oem pump, ignore this.

You did not say if you hear the whine of the fuel pump or if it is not running at all when you turn on the ignition. I'd assume no noise at all from the pump. If there are other odd happenings, headlights dim, blinkers work at half brightness, it is most certainly a ground problem as described by @dduelin.
Click to expand...
Sorry no it’s silent no pump and no FI like I just messaged below I think it’s in a state of blown fuse never got chance to check it as it got recover off road to this garage and they have no clue they wanted me to replace the pump without doing any checks so not happy want it back tomorrow so it can go elsewhere.
 
Last edited:
I have my bike back from the garage and Thursday its being collected to go to Manchester where a mechanic who knows these bikes inside out will be going over it.
So i feel a bit better now will feel even better if we can work out whats happened. So you turn on ignition still no FI light and no sound of pump priming so at a guess i would say no power to coils either though not confirmed i swapped out 20 amp fuse for FI Pump & Coils no difference and Kill Switch does nothing.
Everything else is working fine and Honda hiss is flashing but does not light up then go off when ignition is switched on just stops flashing. so it's got to be power to this circuit either from point of ignition or along the circuit. Going to let them work this out so fingers crossed. My nerves can't take anymore.
My old bike is getting me around of now but that u joint is making noises so just taking it easy as that's another problem i need someone to try and remove the swing arm that's seized on that one. Will keep you updated on how it goes.
 
Last edited:
St1300 was picked up today its now at a Main dealer, yesterday it started FI light came on went off fuel pump primed but would then cut out
followed by no more FI light or fuel pump. Mostly crank no start with random if your lucky brief startup so it has to be wires or break in circuit somewhere.
Just hope they can work it, hopefully have more information tomorrow after noon or early next week.
 
well we have an update, she is fixed and on the way back to me on Tuesday next week. So happy and pleased that i made the right decision to go back to my old dealer in Manchester. It was on the bench at 3pm yesterday and by 3pm today i got the call to tell me it was wires and they have fixed it.
Striped bike down used Oscilloscope to test loom and step by step process. I should have more detail tomorrow when they have written the notes up.
As soon as I know exactly what and how I will update you. I can't tell you how pleased i am, i was stressing about main loom or ECU replacements costing thousands. I think when they drop my St1300 off i will send my old one back to see if they can do the u joint and get that stuck swing arm off.

Update will follow when i have the detail just glad its fixed :):slv13:
 
Update bike was out on test ride with the garage today and all is good, they found issues with wires in a connector block underneath the upper fuel tank which was then causing no communication with Pump ignition & FI, This has all been fixed or bypassed and she is now up and running.They are going to keep an eye on it over the next few days make sure the battery is all good and then it will be delivered back to me Tuesday.
Hope fully i have explained this correctly but when it comes back and i see the notes I will check over I am just so pleased they worked it out.
It was 4 hours of checking wires and working around the bike.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom