New SMC and brake bleeding blues

tjhiggin

R.I.P. - 2022/06/11
Rest In Peace
Joined
Jul 6, 2016
Messages
334
Location
North Alabama
Bike
2004 ST1300A
Note to self: part #45520-300-000 is a cup, not a screen.

So, after this weekend's bike repair shenanigans, I'm thinking we should have a "Bonehead of the Month" award, to go along with all our other awards like MOTY and the mileage awards. I'll certainly be the leading bonehead candidate this month!

My rear brake started dragging recently; the dreaded SMC problem was rearing its ugly head. Once the new part arrived from Partzilla, I enlisted my good friend Jon to help with the brake bleeding.

Bleeding the front brake went fine. After following the procedure in the manual, the lever was nice and firm. On to the rear brake.

Following the shop manual procedure, we got barely a dribble of fluid out of any of the bleed valves. First we tried manually pumping the brake pedal to move the fluid through; no go. Then we tried this bleeder (https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html); a small amount of fluid came out, but not nearly enough. Finally we tried this vacuum bleeder (https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html). Again, a small amount came through, but not nearly enough. The brake pedal had exactly zero pressure. We worked on this for several hours Saturday, and several more on Sunday, checking and double-checking that we were following the steps in the shop manual in the correct order. We could see the fluid go down a little in the rear master cylinder, but again, not very much. All kinds of scary thoughts crossed our minds: blockage in the system somewhere; new SMC was bad; air leaking into the system somewhere; SMC installed wrong, etc. But the hand pump bleeder was holding good vacuum. Very perplexing.

Finally I broke down and messaged Larry the ST Whisperer. I hated to disturb him on the holiday, and asked if I could call him Monday evening for guidance. While waiting for his reply, we went to the garage and tried again. Jon was poking around the rear MC and lifted the screen out. We heard, as Ross Perot called it years ago, a "giant sucking sound," as the vacuum was released and all the fluid in the MC was sucked into the system. Along with a bunch of air, dammit. That screen in the rear MC isn't a screen; it's a cup, or, as the manual calls it, a diaphragm. Oops. Boy did we feel stupid. All this time, we'd just been pulling a vacuum on the system. We could see the fluid level in the MC drop a bit as the bottom of the cup was pulled down by the suction. So we were certain a little bit fluid was going into the system. And we were certainly wrong.

As I mentioned to Larry in my follow-up message, that "giant sucking sound" means we suck as mechanics!

Once we figured out our bonehead error, bleeding the system went fine. It took a long time to get all the air out though. We went through 2 full quarts of brake fluid.

Upon reviewing the manual, I see on page 17-8 it says to remove the diaphragm from the rear MC as part of the process to drain the brake fluid. But I wasn't draining the fluid, so I skipped ahead to the "Brake Fluid Filling/Air Bleeding" process on page 17-9. It doesn't mention anything about the diaphragm.

After we finished the bleeding, I had to get to my family's Easter dinner, so we didn't have time to put all the tupperware back on. At Larry's request I'll call him this evening before re-installing the tupperware and after that I'll be back on the road.

I hereby nominate myself for the new Bonehead of the Month award for April, and would assume I'm the frontrunner by a LARGE margin...
 
I hereby nominate myself for the new Bonehead of the Month award for April, and would assume I'm the frontrunner by a LARGE margin...
Hogwash to your Bonehead of the Month award. We've all been there. How do you think we get to be good? I could tell you about this weekend's fight with my old bike's neutral indicator light, tracing the wire, changing the lamp, trying to remove the OEM switch from the trans housing (it is located behind my Guzzi's starter solenoid and effectively out of reach), texting a friend, and finally publicly admitting defeat - posting online...only to realize after doing all those things that there are false neutrals between gears.... Duh. Wanna fight over the award?

The switch and wiring were fine and worked as designed after I shifted to the real neutral.
 
Bleeding the brakes on a ST1300 is not for the faint of heart. The first few times you do it, you really wonder what were they thinking when they designed this system.

After you have "mastered" it, you really think what the HECK were they thinking!

Even with the numerous times I have bleed them, it's still a challenge for me to get them to my liking!

So don't feel too bad. And thank goodness for Larry, he has helped out a lot of folks around here! :hat3:
 
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I'll just say with the Honda system of linked brakes, it's a fun job. The VFR guys have similar problems with bleeding the SMC, etc....... Oh, the ST1300 has two ABS pumps, lotsa plumbing..... patience is a virtue. Personally, I don't seem to encounter many issues, pretty much follow the FSM and never start with an empty system.

I recently installed a set of stainless lines on the VFR, just filled the reservoirs, opened the bleeders and let gravity work it's magic for a few minutes. It went pretty well.
 
While I agree the Honda combined braking system is overly complex it never gave particular trouble to maintain in the ST1300 or Goldwing which is also a similar Rube Goldberg 1980's design. Flush and bleed every 12,000 miles or 12 months and inspect rear wheel free rotation OFTEN if not every ride in the pre-flight routine by giving the rear wheel a foot shove while on center stand. Any dragging is apparent before it becomes a serious problem.

I am glad that I used then copied leo7x24's tech article Brake/Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Flush/Bleed to a pdf when it appeared in 2006. That tutorial is easy to follow and gives outstanding results. I still share copies of it a few times a month when someone asks for it.

My NC700X and RT both have linked ABS systems and it adds NO complexity to a flush and bleed.
 
That screen in the rear MC isn't a screen; it's a cup, or, as the manual calls it, a diaphragm.
What exactly are you talking about here?
Any pics to help us understand?
I've done my brake bleeds since the bike was new and don't know what you are talking about. :think1:

Are you talking about #14?
 

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While I agree the Honda combined braking system is overly complex it never gave particular trouble to maintain in the ST1300 or Goldwing which is also a similar Rube Goldberg 1980's design. Flush and bleed every 12,000 miles or 12 months and inspect rear wheel free rotation OFTEN if not every ride in the pre-flight routine by giving the rear wheel a foot shove while on center stand. Any dragging is apparent before it becomes a serious problem.

I am glad that I used then copied leo7x24's tech article Brake/Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Flush/Bleed to a pdf when it appeared in 2006. That tutorial is easy to follow and gives outstanding results. I still share copies of it a few times a month when someone asks for it.

My NC700X and RT both have linked ABS systems and it adds NO complexity to a flush and bleed.
Could you fire off a copy of that tech article to Valker1@hotmail.com please? Thanks.
 
What exactly are you talking about here?
Any pics to help us understand?
I've done my brake bleeds since the bike was new and don't know what you are talking about. :think1:

Are you talking about #14?

Yes, 14. If not removed during bleeding, it forms a seal at the MC reservoir and prevents fluid from moving through the system.
 
If we're talking dumb things with ST1300 brakes, I could get a Junior Bonehead award for pulling the main slider pin out of the rear calliper whilst it was on the bike (with good intentions, for a clean/grease) and then refitting it ever so slightly cocked, and cross-threading it back into place. Took only a little more effort to refit than to remove so no warning bells went off. The result was the two slider pins were no longer parallel and the calliper gets pulled away from the wheel putting the back pad firmly on the disk, mucho drag. I could not get the pin to thread straight after this so I had to replace the calliper; I have vowed never to remove the sliding pin unless the calliper is right off the bike...
 
I have found a dead easy way to bleed the SMC on Honda Linked brakes. I use a pressure bleeder not a vacuum bleeder and bleed the fluid into the SMC fitting on the front caliper and I put a Motion Pro check valve bleeder on the rear caliper fitting and bleed into the front caliper through the system and out the rear caliper bleed. Works great, this is fast and completely flushes the system with clean fluid.
 
Yes, 14. If not removed during bleeding, it forms a seal at the MC reservoir and prevents fluid from moving through the system.
When I replaced my SMC, I found the rear MC had been bled dry and the diaphragm pulled down and scratched out so that it didn't work correctly after that. Fortunately, I had an expert with me who found the it was stretched just enough out of shape that it wouldn't let it vent after that, and had to be replaced. I would not have discovered that on my own. Might want to make sure that any air can be vented out and not create a bubble when you put the diaphragm back on.
 
This is the type of pressure reverse bleeder I used:
 
The diaphragm in the top of the reservoir is not intended to vent air. It should have a plastic circular insert that keeps the upper part pressed against the sides. It is intended to form a seal to prevent fluid getting out and moist air getting in.

Am I talking about the same component ?

The diaphragm itself is designed to be sucked down as reservoir level drops as the pads wear down. The reservoir capacity is more than enough to leave plenty of fluid as the pads wear down from new to worn out.

But is the intention to give the BOTM award retrospectively? I'll be joining the queue.
 
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TJhiggin.....welcome to the Bonehead Club! You've earned your coveted membership. Let's just call ourselves Mechanics in our Practice ( move over Marcus Welby, M.D. ). Wondering what your odometer reading might be? Enjoy your victory!
 
This is the type of pressure reverse bleeder I used:
Looks like a good tool. My preference is for something that pulls fluid out of the master cylinders. I can see using the reverse bleed procedure to over fill the master cylinder and spilling brake fluid all over everything. Of course I put plastic, an old towel, and more plastic on top of the tank and painted surfaces, but spilling fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir would still make a mess. My pref only.
 
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