Hello all, I was just given a 2002 st1100 in very nice condition. Oil is clear, tires are near new. Paint has a couple small scratches but no oxidation. Over all this bike is clean, always garaged and damage free. I'm hoping to find a good mechanic in the San Diego area to give it a full major service. It has 40k miles and has been well maintained but it's been sitting for a couple years. Currently does not start. It's fuel delivery. I'm thinking the fuel cutoff valve is shot. Tries to fire but no go. I ordered a new one on amazon of all places. For 45 bucks its worth a try. I'll get it up and running but I want to pay someone to go top to bottom and give this puppy a solid check over. All major service items and back to its reliable self. If anyone knows a good service guy, I would be most grateful for the referral. Heres a pic, the saddle cases are on the other side of the garage. Thanks
New owner ST1100
- Thread starter Richinsd
- Start date
Welcome from N.E. Scotland ...
... plenty of knowledge on here (jointly, the members probably know more about these bikes than Honda ever did
)
With a reasonable set of tools most tasks can be DIY, saves on garage costs and lets you get to know and understand the bike.
... plenty of knowledge on here (jointly, the members probably know more about these bikes than Honda ever did
)With a reasonable set of tools most tasks can be DIY, saves on garage costs and lets you get to know and understand the bike.
Erdoc48
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2009
- Messages
- 1,370
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC/ Sometimes Colorado
- Bike
- 94/00/04 STs, FSC600
Nice bike!
Some things to check: if it’ll (eventually) run only with the choke on, check the pilot jets (they can get clogged if the bike hasn’t been run in some time (cleaning them usually requires taking the carbs off and cleaning the jets). Also, check the fuel filter as it may be original and in need of a new one (easy job), and lastly, check your fuel pump to make sure it’s not all gunked up from sitting so long. Any rust in the tank or was it stored full? I’d likely drain out all of the fuel from the tank that you can, and get fresh fuel in there before changing a lot of parts.
Some things to check: if it’ll (eventually) run only with the choke on, check the pilot jets (they can get clogged if the bike hasn’t been run in some time (cleaning them usually requires taking the carbs off and cleaning the jets). Also, check the fuel filter as it may be original and in need of a new one (easy job), and lastly, check your fuel pump to make sure it’s not all gunked up from sitting so long. Any rust in the tank or was it stored full? I’d likely drain out all of the fuel from the tank that you can, and get fresh fuel in there before changing a lot of parts.
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Welcome!
The vacuum shutoff valve seems to be an occasional failure. You could bypass it by connecting the input hose to the unit to the tube the tube running to the carbs. Look up 'vacuum shutoff valve' under 'Articles' at top of the page. there are several excellent photos showing how to make the connection.
If it still won't start, you may have a fuel pump issue, or contamination in the bottom of the tank....2002 was a while back. You can check the fuel pump for flow during the vacuum valve check, just run the line from the pump into a container and turn on the ignition switch. It's a 2psi pump so if you're careful it won't make a mess.
Those are the quick checks you can perform. Rebuild kits for the vacuum valve are still available as are fuel pumps (aftermarket) and fuel tanks.
The vacuum shutoff valve seems to be an occasional failure. You could bypass it by connecting the input hose to the unit to the tube the tube running to the carbs. Look up 'vacuum shutoff valve' under 'Articles' at top of the page. there are several excellent photos showing how to make the connection.
If it still won't start, you may have a fuel pump issue, or contamination in the bottom of the tank....2002 was a while back. You can check the fuel pump for flow during the vacuum valve check, just run the line from the pump into a container and turn on the ignition switch. It's a 2psi pump so if you're careful it won't make a mess.
Those are the quick checks you can perform. Rebuild kits for the vacuum valve are still available as are fuel pumps (aftermarket) and fuel tanks.
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Good luck with finding a mechanic (especially one in a Honda shop) that will touch it because of its age.
Bypass the fuel cutoff (very easy to do).
What does the inside of the gas tank look like?
If it has been sitting for a couple of years with fuel in the carbs, the low speed idle jets probably need cleaning.
If so, it will not idle with the choke (fuel enricher) off.
BTW, don't waste your money on somebody giving it a 'solid check over'.
Two reasons - 1. At 40,000 miles it is just barely broke in.
2. As I said, finding somebody that actually knows these bikes is like looking for a unicorn.
Because of a lack of knowledge, they will usually do more damage than they will do good.
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Click on the riding link above.
Go to USA RAN List and check for CA.
Someone local may be able to point you in the right direction.
Good luck.
Upt.
Go to USA RAN List and check for CA.
Someone local may be able to point you in the right direction.
Good luck.
Upt.
Welcome to the forum from Cornwall UK!
Thanks Erdoc, i checked the tank. It's clean as new. Air filter is a k&n retrofit also as new clean. Engine oil also clean and clear. I changed it anyway. Different oil ill change after I get the bike running. It's just not getting fuel to the carbs. The bike runs when I spray starter fluid into the carb throats then dies in a couple seconds. There is a drip coming from the cutoff valve. Looks like a skunk, smells like a skunk, probably not a cat. Did a Google search and found a new one on amazon for around $45.00. It will be here tomorrow. If it works? We'll see. Otherwise I'll just bypass and move on. On another note amazon also has a new fuel pump for $65.00. Of course not a honda oem part, but it's nice to see some reasonably priced options out there. Whether or not they work? Well,,,, it's chamazon. 50/50 ill let you know.
Thanks Erdoc, i checked the tank. It's clean as new. Air filter is a k&n retrofit also as new clean. Engine oil also clean and clear. I changed it anyway. Different oil ill change after I get the bike running. It's just not getting fuel to the carbs. The bike runs when I spray starter fluid into the carb throats then dies in a couple seconds. There is a drip coming from the cutoff valve. Looks like a skunk, smells like a skunk, probably not a cat. Did a Google search and found a new one on amazon for around $45.00. It will be here tomorrow. If it works? We'll see. Otherwise I'll just bypass and move on. On another note amazon also has a new fuel pump for $65.00. Of course not a honda oem part, but it's nice to see some reasonably priced options out there. Whether or not they work? Well,,,, it's chamazon. 50/50 ill let you know.
kiltman
Site Supporter
For the most part,you really don’t have to do much to keep these bikes going.
It has been my experience, when a Honda has been sitting for any length of time a fresh set of plugs does wonders. ( I got this tip from my Honda mechanic whose been servicing these bikes since 1990 when they were first introduced)
Before attempting or considering removing carbs for cleaning, I would take the easy route first and add the proper proportion of injector cleaner for the first few tankfuls, that usually gets rid of the crude in the carbs.
Changing the hydraulic fluids for clutch and brakes would be a good idea as well as flushing and changing the coolant.
Then get out and ride….change the tires…you’re good for 50k miles before having to change the timing belt.
Enjoy
It has been my experience, when a Honda has been sitting for any length of time a fresh set of plugs does wonders. ( I got this tip from my Honda mechanic whose been servicing these bikes since 1990 when they were first introduced)
Before attempting or considering removing carbs for cleaning, I would take the easy route first and add the proper proportion of injector cleaner for the first few tankfuls, that usually gets rid of the crude in the carbs.
Changing the hydraulic fluids for clutch and brakes would be a good idea as well as flushing and changing the coolant.
Then get out and ride….change the tires…you’re good for 50k miles before having to change the timing belt.
Enjoy
Be careful about the fuel pump. The oem pump puts out about 1 1/2 psi (pretty low). A lot of after market pumps being sold are way higher. Some come with a replacement hose that is not designed to be submersed in gas.
Has the bike actually been run lately? Do you know the bowls in the carbs are full? How full is the tank? With the cut off valve removed, the gas will siphon, through the fuel pump, to the carbs. Until the fuel level is about carb. level or the bowls are full.
Fuel will not get to the carb. unless there is enough vacuum to hold the valve open. I would bypass the cut off valve to lower the number of failure points. It only works when there is enough vacuum created for it to opened and held open. While changing the cut off valve, put the hose from the pump into a container and check for fuel flow. Somewhere there is a spec. for volume of gas flow per minute.
Has the bike actually been run lately? Do you know the bowls in the carbs are full? How full is the tank? With the cut off valve removed, the gas will siphon, through the fuel pump, to the carbs. Until the fuel level is about carb. level or the bowls are full.
Fuel will not get to the carb. unless there is enough vacuum to hold the valve open. I would bypass the cut off valve to lower the number of failure points. It only works when there is enough vacuum created for it to opened and held open. While changing the cut off valve, put the hose from the pump into a container and check for fuel flow. Somewhere there is a spec. for volume of gas flow per minute.