Need Help. What would you do? Surging and power loss

Welcome to the forum from Cornwall UK! I would check the fuel filter and fuel pump to ensure that fuel is flowing properly and then check out the air filters to make sure they are not blocked. It may also pay to check the cap is venting properly as if air can't get in, fuel can't get out of the tank.
It didn't occur to me to really check when it's not under load. Typically, I choke it and start the engine and let it warm a little a few rev's and then off I go. I've never heard it surge when I have been idling in neutral.
I'm having a similar problem to you except that mine is way down on power all the time, 'like a 350' I thought it was fuel but ignition can give very similar symptoms and now I've found that, on cranking the left side has no sparks and the right is a bit weak. Coils test as ok and, with further testing I'm getting toward it being the ign/tcs ECU. I don't think abs comes into it as it revs up slow when stationary. I'd suggest, check your sparks, just to see if you have the same as mine. I'll let you know what I get as I proceed with my testing and checking. By the way, read mine so far under fuel carburetor (or similar) heading
 
I recently purchased a 2002 ST1100 as a result of many of the fine comments on this board. I bought it with 36,000 miles on it and have put 3,000 of my own miles on it. I LOVE IT. I bought it for $2,500. The fun for value component is off the charts. HOWEVER, recently it starting developing a problem where the the bike surges forward without me turning the throttle and then sometimes it seems to have a drop of power like I'm riding a 350 cc bike. The hard part is I love to ride but have absolutely no experience with troubleshooting and even some of the most basics of maintenance discussed on this forum......so off I go to a Honda dealership hoping they can get to the bottom of it at a reasonable cost. As a start they check the plugs and coil and recommend replacement of the spark plugs and ensure that spark plug caps are rethreaded strongly to the coil wiring? They take for a test ride and feel everything is okay. When I pick up the bike and go for a ride the problem is still there. I call them and they say they will have to step by step go through the bike until the problem is solved. Makes complete sense....but given their labor rates, etc. , I could easily paying way more for trying to get this bike to work than what I originally paid for it. So I try to be smart and find one of the best independent shops around with more reasonable labor rates to give me a second opinion. He is Honda certified and seemed very, very, knowledgeable. He goes for a test ride and says he feels that the bike is dropping and running on 2 cylinder's and is very sure it is something in the electrical system. However he checks the coil resistance, spark plugs, and wiring harness, etc.......everything seems okay. After more head scratching, etc. he decides to look into the fuel system. Ultimately, he puts in Seafoam wondering if the gas in that tank is bad, etc. Take's it for a test ride and feel's it much improved. I pick up the bike, run another tank of gas through it and problem is way worse than before. Feeling brave after spending hours on this forum. I take off the plastic and look to do the fuel value vacuum by pass only to find out the that has already been done. It continues to run but it is super rough. If feels to me that it is a fuel delivery problem to the carburetors, but I'm TOO much of a rookie to attempt anything with them myself. In fact I'm amazed when some of say just pull off this and inspect and check this....I have no idea.

I interested in your comments and thoughts so I could a least talk the lingo with a mechanic to get to the bottom of this. Or did I make a rookie mistake in buying a 20 year bike when I don't have repair skills and perhaps I should trade in on something newer. I don't want to give up since so many times I have read on this forum of people who say they ridden 30,000 miles and all I have done is change fluids, tires, etc.

What to do?
Scott
Scott,

Bring it by my place and I'll help you get it running like it should. I'll contact you directly.

Jeff
 
UPDATE... The saga continues....have not solved my problem.

Jeff (jrp) from this forum was nice to take me under his wing to get my bike running properly and we spent a day a his place going through almost all the recommendations on the forum. Great guy and knows a ton and I learned A LOT. We did change the fuel filter, check to make sure the fuel pump was operating a spec, checked the gas cap, fuel quality issues, etc. etc. He then pulled the carburetor bank and check and cleaned the carburetor jets, inspected and cleaned the fuel diaphragms. etc. We then put it all back together and he showed me how to "sync" the carburetors....felt really good about after a long day in his garage....UNFORTUNATELY I left on the bike and not long after that the bike continued to act up. We tried to take a ride together (his bike rides like butter...smooth) however mine continued to act up so I decided to cut the ride short and head for home. The surging got bad and rough enough that the bike just wouldn't run so I had to have it towed to the dealership near my house. I decided to have them check it out for a diagnostic fee. They took a look and verified that there was proper fuel flow to the carbs. However they say the pilot jets to the carbs aren't clear and recommended a rebuild of the carbs. $749 of parts and 4.5 hours of labor $625 for a total all out of $1,584!! Given that it's a 2002 that I decided not to go ahead with the work.

Today I got it running in my garage. It would idle in neutral and run rough at 1000 rpm. When I applied about 1/2 choke it would run more smoothly at 2,000 rpm. I would run it up to 6,000 rpm and hold the throttle steady and it would "surge" around 500 to 1000 rpm up down from the 6000 rpm range.

Jeff might be able to come to my house. He thinks we need to test to look for a potential problem between the coil and the spark plugs.

Any other ideas? I'm close to throwing in the towel.....I don't want to miss a new riding season.

Scott
 
You guys cleaned the jets and the dealer's analysis is clogged jets? And they want $750 just for parts?

Your description sure sounds like idle circuit jets, but if you want to do an easy electrical check, here's one: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=10447.0

Don't bail on the bike. I just spent a couple of hours on mine today, and damn if it isn't a fine machine.
 
We inspected the diaphragms and they appeared to be fine. We did carefully cleaned them no visible holes, etc.

Ryan (Smudgemo), thanks for the link you may be onto something here. I'm going have see if I can use my voltmeter and see if I can learn how to test for resistance.

Yeah I don't really want to bail on the bike, I loved riding it while things we going right. I feel like it could be something quiet easy but I just don't have the experience many of you have on this forum.
 
UPDATE... The saga continues....have not solved my problem.

Jeff (jrp) from this forum was nice to take me under his wing to get my bike running properly and we spent a day a his place going through almost all the recommendations on the forum. Great guy and knows a ton and I learned A LOT. We did change the fuel filter, check to make sure the fuel pump was operating a spec, checked the gas cap, fuel quality issues, etc. etc. He then pulled the carburetor bank and check and cleaned the carburetor jets, inspected and cleaned the fuel diaphragms. etc. We then put it all back together and he showed me how to "sync" the carburetors....felt really good about after a long day in his garage....UNFORTUNATELY I left on the bike and not long after that the bike continued to act up. We tried to take a ride together (his bike rides like butter...smooth) however mine continued to act up so I decided to cut the ride short and head for home. The surging got bad and rough enough that the bike just wouldn't run so I had to have it towed to the dealership near my house. I decided to have them check it out for a diagnostic fee. They took a look and verified that there was proper fuel flow to the carbs. However they say the pilot jets to the carbs aren't clear and recommended a rebuild of the carbs. $749 of parts and 4.5 hours of labor $625 for a total all out of $1,584!! Given that it's a 2002 that I decided not to go ahead with the work.

Today I got it running in my garage. It would idle in neutral and run rough at 1000 rpm. When I applied about 1/2 choke it would run more smoothly at 2,000 rpm. I would run it up to 6,000 rpm and hold the throttle steady and it would "surge" around 500 to 1000 rpm up down from the 6000 rpm range.

Jeff might be able to come to my house. He thinks we need to test to look for a potential problem between the coil and the spark plugs.

Any other ideas? I'm close to throwing in the towel.....I don't want to miss a new riding season.

Scott
Have you cured this problem yet? If not try this. Under the horizontal panel on the left, the one just below the headlight aim knob, there is a small, grey wiring connector with three wires in and out. I'd recommend you cut this out and fit new individual ones or, solder them together. The theory is~ of these one is coils earth and the other two are the ones that 'fire' each coil. If this gives a bad connection and makes a resistance it can cut sparks or make them weak and can do it intermittently or regularly. If cylinders get a weak spark it can 'light up' the cylinder but, as the spark is weak it doesn't burn all the fuel which makes identical symptoms to weak mixture. As the resistance can be variable, being just a poor connector, it could give surging, low power and indeed be so bad as to be unridable. Do try it and let me know the outcome. Swede.
 
Thanks Swede, makes sense and something I will try and report back on. If it's something that easy I will be amazed.
 
Swede are you talking about this connector? Mine is white and look's like it goes into the main wiring harness (32100-MAJ-A311). It is in the area you described. I unplugged the connector and visually it looks fine.
 

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Smudgemo (Ryan), I followed the instructions on the link you sent regarding spark plug maintenance. I did take out the little resistor in each spark plug cap and measured the resistance which was 5K, 5.4K, 5.83K, and 5.78K. The article said I should be looking for 5K ohms. I assume that it it's over I'm fine, so in this case I have at least 5K ohms on each resistor which should be fine. Right? The springs that are in the cap did not "fall" out but I inspected them with a flashlight and they looked fine.
 
Swede are you talking about this connector? Mine is white and look's like it goes into the main wiring harness (32100-MAJ-A311). It is in the area you described. I unplugged the connector and visually it looks fine.
Yes, that looks like it and the wire cables are right. I suspect my one was a bit grubby and I remembered it as grey. You should find whilst one way goes into the harness and away to the ecu, the other way goes onto the coils behind the steering head.
 
Yes, that looks like it and the wire cables are right. I suspect my one was a bit grubby and I remembered it as grey. You should find whilst one way goes into the harness and away to the ecu, the other way goes onto the coils behind the steering head.
If they're nice and clean and bright you should be ok to leave them on, just pack a little silicon grease in them. I think I'd also be inclined to check them with a meter ;just to be doubley sure!.... Swede
 
If they're nice and clean and bright you should be ok to leave them on, just pack a little silicon grease in them. I think I'd also be inclined to check them with a meter ;just to be doubley sure!.... Swede
Have you checked the sparks are good and strong, like a small flame? Not weak and stringy looking. And check both right and left sides. If they were stringy we might suspect a coil if it were on one side, or the ecu if it were both sides: or even the ecu earth. Not sure where that is though. Sorry its not the 'quick fix'. Swede.
 
One other thing to add to your list of things to check. I had an older 4x4 that I rebuilt the engine, I could not get it to run properly and it got progressively worse until it wouldn't start. I checked and rechecked EVERYTHING for months. Finally gave up and towed it to my friends dad who was a retired mechanic. Took him about 30 minutes to pull the exhaust and start it... The catalytic converter was plugged so badly that the engine couldn't push air through.

I don't know if the ST1100 has a catalytic converter, but you might drop the mufflers/exhaust off and see if it cures the symptoms.

Good luck!
Ryan
 
Hmmmm, in my experience, a weak fuel pump would cause these symptoms. Talk offline to Uncle Phil and/or Igofar. And let us know when it's fixed.
 
One other thing to add to your list of things to check. I had an older 4x4 that I rebuilt the engine, I could not get it to run properly and it got progressively worse until it wouldn't start. I checked and rechecked EVERYTHING for months. Finally gave up and towed it to my friends dad who was a retired mechanic. Took him about 30 minutes to pull the exhaust and start it... The catalytic converter was plugged so badly that the engine couldn't push air through.

I don't know if the ST1100 has a catalytic converter, but you might drop the mufflers/exhaust off and see if it cures the symptoms.

Good luck!
Ryan
No, I don't think any of the 1100s have them as you really need to have injection for a cat. (I know it has been done though ie BL mini)
 
No, I don't think any of the 1100s have them as you really need to have injection for a cat. (I know it has been done though ie BL mini)
It could still happen though, if a baffle came adrift! If it had you'd feel a lot less puff comming out of one side.. Swede
 
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