Mixing-N-Matching Heated Gear and Controllers

Joined
Aug 30, 2008
Messages
59
Location
Jenks, OK
Bike
2017 BMW R1200GSA
Anyone had any issues with mixing-n-matching heated gear and controllers. I know the manufacturers probably recommend against it but I know lots of people still do it. I'm interested in purchasing a pair of heated Gerbing G3 gloves but I don't really care for the Gerbing Temperature Controller. I'd rather go with the EXO2 Stormrider Controller. In the future, I might consider picking up a First Gear Warm & Safe Heated Liner. Any issues with this? Are the electrical connections compatible between the different manufacturers?
 
I have wired Julia's Gerbing jacket to the EXO2 controller and it works just fine.
All the wires have to be shortened, make sure the controller works first as the cutting voids the warranty.
Removed the plate and stuck some velcro to the bottom of the controller and it attaches to the velcro on her Aerostich.
 
Should be no issues as long as the power requirements are not exceeded.
You may have to make adapters SAE to Barrel Connector etc.
But heated gear is not a difficult load to supply with a controller.

btw wns liner is c. 90watt load. N size connector (radio shack speak)
irrc 5.5 x 2.5mm
 
I like that Warm and Safe fits very close to the body. Gerbings doesn't seem to fit that closely. Any opinion from the ladies on this forum about that?

Abby
 
Heated gear are just hot plates. No diodes, just wires. ;)
Multiple controllers, one for each bit are nice because of different resistances, for instance, twixt the jacket and gloves. :)
FYI, Warm & Safe has tow Heat Trollers on sale on their outlet page. $49 & $69 --a bah-gan.:D
 
I use a Gerbing's jacket liner and a Heattroller.

I have a dual permanent mount on the ST1300 and a portable for my DR and ATV.
 
So when you mount the permanent heat troller...

lead from the battery or fuseblock connects via coax to the "box" which all ends up under the plastic, right?

The wiring that runs from the "box" to the dials is under the plastic to a location where you mount the dials (cut hole in side panel for instance - other locations?), right?

Then the coax lead(s) that run from the box that you plug into your gear is run to a location where it comes out from under the plastic, right? Typical location?

I had been leaning towards the portable troller for no other reason other than I didn't really want to cut holes in my panel, but for $70 and then a closeout Gen 2 jacket for $99, I'm thinking that is too good of a deal to pass up...
 
I use FirstGear heated gloves with a Tourmaster heated jacket liner, using the Tourmaster controller. Works fine.

As long as the connectors mate up, the controllers do the same thing.
 
So when you mount the permanent heat troller...

lead from the battery or fuseblock connects via coax to the "box" which all ends up under the plastic, right?

-Hard mounted sead from the controller go to the battery or acc fuse block with the ring terminals.


The wiring that runs from the "box" to the dials is under the plastic to a location where you mount the dials (cut hole in side panel for instance - other locations?), right?

-I *think most people mount them on the flat surface just below the left front fairing pocket door. I'm pretty sure there is room for both potentiometers.

Then the coax lead(s) that run from the box that you plug into your gear is run to a location where it comes out from under the plastic, right? Typical location?

-usually just snuck out from under the seat. close to where the jacket liner lead hangs out while you are sitting on the bike. (behind your leg)

I had been leaning towards the portable troller for no other reason other than I didn't really want to cut holes in my panel, but for $70 and then a closeout Gen 2 jacket for $99, I'm thinking that is too good of a deal to pass up...

Assuming you mean this one.
The advantage of the portable one is it's easy to move from bike to bike.
 

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Carl,

Yep - that's the one that is on sale. Combine it with a Gen 2 jacket from their closeout page and it makes for a nice little start on adding heated gear to my aresenal. Then all I have to do is figure out whose gloves I want to go with and add them...

Thanks for your input on the installation - I thought that is how and where everything would run/go, but wanted to make sure.
 
The only issue I had was when I got the portable single Heat-Troller.
I had to trim some plastic off the end of the coax, so it would mate with the Gerbing's liner's coax.

My permanent mount dual Heat-Troller did not have that issue.
 
I bought a EXO2 Stormrider controller and a pair of Gerbing G3 heated gloves. I wired the controller directly to the battery. I haven't permanently mounted it yet. It's temporarily hanging from under the back seat. I just wanted to make sure everything works. So far, so good. The gloves work fine. I'm concerned about the lengths of the wires, they're kinda long.

I've learned that heat controllers are "optional" and heated gear can be used without them. I'm considering purchasing an adapter (see below) that I can plug directly into the powerlet socket on the right side of the bike below the storage compartment. They're only around $13. I would then plug the gloves into the adapter. If I use the G3 gloves without the heat controller (essentially powering them directly from the battery through the adapter), then would they always heat up to "max" heat all the time? I presume that there would be no way to control the heat. Am I correct?

adapter.jpg
 
I've learned that heat controllers are "optional" and heated gear can be used without them. I'm considering purchasing an adapter (see below) that I can plug directly into the powerlet socket on the right side of the bike below the storage compartment. They're only around $13. I would then plug the gloves into the adapter. If I use the G3 gloves without the heat controller (essentially powering them directly from the battery through the adapter), then would they always heat up to "max" heat all the time? I presume that there would be no way to control the heat. Am I correct?
You are quite correct on all counts, there.

The problem with powering them full-power is that most items are too warm. You can wire an in-line switch to make it full-power or no-power, but that gets awkward after trying to find the switch a few times.

I had borrowed by brother-in-law's Gerbing jacket liner a few times and found that with the controller set to more than "4" out of "10", it was simply too warm, even in 25 degree weather. For that reason, I chose to wire my own liner to be about 50 watts, instead of the Gerbing's 77 watts, and it worked out quite well. I commuted 75 miles (each way) to work for 2 1/2 months last winter in relative comfort (my legs got cold). The warmth of my 50-watt liner is gentle enough that I can still use it at 55-60 degrees, too.

I use Widder gloves, also without a controller, they are a bit warmer, but that feels real good on the hands. :D

.
 
I'm just trying to cut down on all the wires, mainly the length. When you turn on the EXO2 Stormrider controller, it automatically goes to the highest setting which is 9. According to the instructions, it does this so the gloves warm up faster. I left the setting at 9 when I took my first ride with the gloves. It was only around 42 degrees (I'm not complaining :), remember I'm in South Florida!). After about 15 minutes, my knuckles were burning from the heat so I turned it down a few clicks. Not sure now that I would want to use the gloves without the controller because "max heat" is probably going to be too hot for my riding needs. I'll figure something out. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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