MityVac MV6830 Brake Bleeder

Uncle Phil

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Joined
Feb 26, 2007
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Age
72
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In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
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4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
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Just curious if anyone has one of these and how well does it work.
I have the 'check' valves (several of them) and was wondering if this tool would make it easier to bleed brakes by yourself.
Price is not the issue, value and usefulness is the issue. ;)
 
The fittings don't fit the bleeders well, they suck more air than remove it, and you have to completely clean the tool when finished.
The simple check valves work well for me.
And yes, I do 99% of my work solo.
You just have to know the right way to attack it.
:WCP1:
 
I have one and have tried it a handful of times. I find it sucks air around the loose bleeder so you can never get an air-free "pull". I tried removing a bleeder and applying teflon tape to help seal the loose bleeder... what a mess. I will still use it to help evacuate old fluid out of a system and when I get to the fresh fluid, I remove it and resort to the traditional "pump and bleed" setup, with a one way valve. I use the vacum pump as an aide only because I bought it and have it. If I knew then ( when i bought the mityvac) what I know now, I wouldnt have spent the money on it. It does have other uses, which you may or may not need... e.g. it can test vacum operated valves and switches for leaks and operation. I have used it a couple of times for that. I set fork oil level with a metal tube with a stop at a measured graduation to get the level exact in each tube and it is quick to suck old fluid out of master cylinders before filling with fresh stuff to bleed with.
 
I know the 'right way' to attack it (I pretty much always work by myself), I was just wondering if this tool made it any easier.
And it appears to add 'trouble' instead of reducing 'trouble' which was what I was thinking.
'Complexity' seldom solves problems but instead usually creates problems.
It was going to be a Christmas gift for me but I believe I'll find something more useful! ;)
 
I have the smaller hand pump MityVac. I never used the supplied fittings instead I replaced the connecting hose with a length of vinyl hose (1/4” ID ???) that is a snug fit on the bleeder. That substitution was essential to the thing working. The first time use the bleeders do need to be removed for Teflon tape sealing but it’s just the one time. I used mine on the longer circuits of the ST and Goldwing where I couldn’t easily use the manual open/pump lever/close method. It worked well.
 
I got mine for free so I use it when it is advantageous for me to do so. Despite the many things that it can be quite handy for, if I had to buy one with my own sheckles I would not based on the price of them. If I was buying it specifically for and solely for the purpose of brake/clutch bleeding that would be a definite no.

No idea about the Mityvac but mine has several different size adapters for the bleed nipple. If it doesn't fit the bleeder nipple tightly it probably has the wrong size adapter for that size nipple. As for sucking air in around the bleeder screw threads that is another story- it will. As long as you know that just let it do it. The air that is being sucked in around the threads is not filling the hydraulic system full of air and the vacuum pump shouldn't be used as the final step in the system bleeding process in my opinion anyway, so this doesn't matter. After filling and/or flushing the system the final bleed should always be done, be it with a check valve or the old school method, with the hydraulic system pressurized. If you are thinking that this tool will allow you to eliminate this part of the bleeding process I would not concurr with that thought.

What they are really handy for is evacuating the old brake fluid and/or for flushing the system, especially if you feel the need to move a large volume of fluid through it for some reason. They are also great not only for sucking the old brake fluid out of the master cyclinders but also any crud that may be at the bottom of them if you have been a bad boy and have neglected your scheduled fluid changes. If you keep up with your fluid change maintenance this is not an issue for you so this tool is of no value to you in this regard.

They are handy for sucking just about any type of fluid from just about anything without having to worry if that fluid is combustible or not such as fuel from fuel tanks, water from a clogged drain, that toxic chemical that you spilled and you don't have rubber gloves, etc.. I have even used mine to suck the engine oil out of a generator that someone mounted to a frame in such a way as to make using the drain screw impossible without it becoming a huge project. I used the vacuum pump to easily suck the oil out through the fill hole. They are also handy for any project where you may need to pull a small vacuum like for testing vacuum operated equipment.
 
I've had mixed results with vac bleeders, prefer the good old fashioned way. First of all, use silicone hose on the bleeder nipple, like the kind supplied by SpeedBleeders..... better yet, get the SpeedBleeders for a one person job. Once you have the system clean and bled, do a quick bleed annually to keep things fresh and clean.... and not get dirt in that return hole or in the SMC.
 
I have a MityVac…..all the flaws above make it a pita to use at times. I am a big fan of Speed Bleeders and have thought about buying the check valved bleeder sold by Motion Pro.


 
I have one and have tried it a handful of times. I find it sucks air around the loose bleeder so you can never get an air-free "pull". I tried removing a bleeder and applying teflon tape to help seal the loose bleeder... what a mess. I will still use it to help evacuate old fluid out of a system and when I get to the fresh fluid, I remove it and resort to the traditional "pump and bleed" setup, with a one way valve. I use the vacum pump as an aide only because I bought it and have it. If I knew then ( when i bought the mityvac) what I know now, I wouldnt have spent the money on it. It does have other uses, which you may or may not need... e.g. it can test vacum operated valves and switches for leaks and operation. I have used it a couple of times for that. I set fork oil level with a metal tube with a stop at a measured graduation to get the level exact in each tube and it is quick to suck old fluid out of master cylinders before filling with fresh stuff to bleed with.
A .99 cent children's aspirator works better for removing the fluid than a syringe, turkey baster, or vacuum pump, and they are easier to clean, and fit in your toolbox in a zip lock bag.
They also work quite well for pushing/pulling fluid through small holes ;)
 
I have a MityVac…..all the flaws above make it a pita to use at times. I am a big fan of Speed Bleeders and have thought about buying the check valved bleeder sold by Motion Pro.


Just purchase the one in the first link.
Do NOT waste your money on the second one, as the handle gets in the way for most uses, and the rubber fitting that goes over the bleed nipple gets a memory, stretches out, and is useless after one or two uses, and you have to throw it away.
The first style, you can purchase 3/16 x 5/16 clear tubing and keep trimming it until you have to purchase more at the hardware store.
 
I put SpeedBleeders on all of the ST’s (and Silverwing’s) brake calipers and clutch slave cylinders. Makes bleeding/ fluid swap a very quick job. They wouldn’t be useful if there’s a lot of air in the system though. I even put one on the clutch slave cylinder of my MR2, so bleeding that clutch is very easy.
 
I have a MityVac…..all the flaws above make it a pita to use at times. I am a big fan of Speed Bleeders and have thought about buying the check valved bleeder sold by Motion Pro.


I do use speed bleeders in spots, but also I have the Motion Pro check valve bleeder.... works great..
A good tip on bleeding hoses is to use a mini spring clamp on them to secure and seal the hose on bleed nipples...
 
I put SpeedBleeders on all of the ST’s (and Silverwing’s) brake calipers and clutch slave cylinders. Makes bleeding/ fluid swap a very quick job. They wouldn’t be useful if there’s a lot of air in the system though. I even put one on the clutch slave cylinder of my MR2, so bleeding that clutch is very easy.
Problem with speed bleeders is you need 7 of them, plus one for the clutch, and they cost a lot, and leave with the bike when you sell it.
A MP tool is about $15 dollars and stays with you.
 
I repurposed a nebulizer pump and it will bleed brakes in a couple of seconds. I use oxygen tubing and it fits snug on the nipples. My problem is that I have a plastic vacuum bottle and it collapses under the suction. I need to get a glass one.

I haven't tried the Motion Pro bleeder tool but I have other Motion Pro tools and you can't go wrong with those.
 
Dunno, I've obtained this set for "mobile roadside emergency assistance"...

b1.10.3e.MityvacBremsenentluefter10010766910FR18.JPG


used it for draining and/or flushing but it has a pretty lame volume/capacity, always followed by the old fashioned pump'n'bleed procedures...

In the shop I use my air-powered thing, way more comfy...

41Xg7UEWAcL._AC_SL1024_.jpg


attach, open the air-valve and let it rip... this thing really draws... you'll have to keep an eye on replenishing the reservoirs...
 
Really? I can think of three different methods that work, and I think it’s safe to say that I am somewhat limited to movements since my spine surgery.
Like I said, ya gotta know how to attack it :rofl1:
Really? I'd be glad to have just two of your 'methods' - that will leave you with one to spare ... ;)
Then I could see if there are any different than what I am already doing.
 
I have a vacuum bleeder and works excellent.
I use it for cars, trucks and bikes.
It will drain a master cylinder and brake lines in seconds depending on how much compressor pressure you use.

I buy a big bottle of brake fluid and keep filling reservoir 4 or 5 times until the fluid comes out clear.
My St1100 clutch and brake fluid was brown and nasty.
Had to actually use a paper towel and wipe the crud out of the reservoir.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture and should be flushed every 2 years.

Just takes some time getting used to using a vacuum bleeder.
 
I have a vacuum bleeder and works excellent.
I use it for cars, trucks and bikes.
It will drain a master cylinder and brake lines in seconds depending on how much compressor pressure you use.

I buy a big bottle of brake fluid and keep filling reservoir 4 or 5 times until the fluid comes out clear.
My St1100 clutch and brake fluid was brown and nasty.
Had to actually use a paper towel and wipe the crud out of the reservoir.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture and should be flushed every 2 years.

Just takes some time getting used to using a vacuum bleeder.
Which model do you have?
 
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