McCruise installation

CruSTy

CruSTy

My Perception is my reality.
Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
517
Age
72
Location
Paola, Kansas
Bike
2007 ST1300A
2024 Miles
007421
Just finished installing my new McCruise Cruise on my 2007 ST1300. I cant say enough good things about this product and the McCruise company. Installation was as close to a factory accessory as you will ever find. Having been in the automotive industry since the late 60s I've seen a lot of aftermarket stuff but this is in a class with something I would expect from mother Honda engineering. Far superior even to the factory cruise on my goldwing. There was no cutting, splicing or modification to factory parts. operation is simple and did not need any re-calibration or tweaking. Pretty much install and go ride. Customer support is great. I had one minor issue with the clutch sensing. The computer would do either ground sense or 12v sense. Mine wasnt working the way I connected it. I mis read one of the steps to switch the processor from High sense to low sense. Sent them an email requesting help and someone from Australia called me within 30 minutes. Found the error of my ways and all was good. Kudos to McCruise.
 
I would have to agree with you on this, I love the McCruise cruise control on my 12 ST1300.
 
Ahhhh; to have that kind of money. I mean, I used to. Hell that would be about 12 hours work for me at one time. These days $923.00 is 2/3 of what I make for a month.
That being said; I test drove the 07 ST for one of my un-sons and it had the McCruise. Operating is was simple, and has been mentioned, the engineering on the unit is as good, or better than the OEM. Yes, he bought the bike.
Honestly, if I could afford one of these it would be on my ST faster than the bike can go!
If you can get one, do it!
Oddly, this would solve my only issue with carpal tunnel. I'm scheduling surgery for it over the winter. The surgery is cheaper than the unit...
 
I have a 2003 st with Mc Cruise control that is 20 years old, I purchased the bike ten years ago from the original owner who had it installed when bike was new, the cruise control has always worked perfectly.
 
I'll echo the same. I bought one second hand on here from @keensali and it was a flawless install. I was concerned with the "LED Brake Light" issue, as the unit didn't have the accessory. I got very prompt email responses from them on my concerns, but ultimately had no issues once it was installed!
 
It's on my List of Things To Do.
After purchasing one, that is.
I checked the exchange rate a few months ago, and it came to about $860 USD, and that made me happy.
I've not had the courage (or the funding) since beidenomics has landed, and since my Element transmission rebuild, which would have paid for one McCruise for me and four for some of the rest of you.
 
A couple of additional notes. Since around 2020 this cruise uses the existing ST speed sensor and the actuator is digital electronic versus the old vacuum style. The only thing visible is the control switch. Don’t forget the 5% discount using the ADVRIDER code.
 
I guess I’m still old school. In the near future, I’ll be installing an Audiovox electronic cruise on the new-to-me ST1300. I’ve installed 2 on ST’s and one on my Versys 1000, so I’ve pretty well gotten the hang of it. The one on the Versys works as smooth as any I’ve seen including 2 Wings and a RT. Occasionally, they’ll show up on eBay, or a member here will sell one they bought, but were intimidated about the install. I’m sure the installation is the same as the McCruise, except for adding a vacuum source.

John
 
Could I ask you ST1300 installers to please post a review on the McCruise website? There are only 8, dating back to 2019. Thanks for that.
I'll help you get started: Leave a Review Here
Next... what is involved in setting it up if you have LED brake lights?
I will get the cruise control before I ever (IF I ever) install LEDs in the back.
Thanks... again.
 
Sadlsor said:
Next... what is involved in setting it up if you have LED brake lights?
I will get the cruise control before I ever (IF I ever) install LEDs in the back.
Thanks... again.
Click to expand...
If your brake lamp is LED, the circuit which cancels cruise when the brakes are applied requires a diode added. It's a $5 AUS addition to the price at the time it's ordered. And an LED capable MC Cruise will work with either an LED or incandescent lamp.

And according to MC Cruise this modification is not offered for post-sale installation by the consumer.

www.mccruise.com

LED Brake Light harness modification for MCS8000C & MCS10000C cruise computer

(10% GST will be added in the cart for Australian orders only) The LED brake light harness modification MUST be ordered and paid for WITH a cruise control kit. If you attempt to purchase this without buying a cruise control kit we will refund your card. If you forget to buy it, you can purchase...
www.mccruise.com www.mccruise.com

My recommendation to everyone, order yours with the LED mod to future-proof your bike against LED upgrade or brake light flasher.
 
I have also recently installed an McCruise. It went without problems. I ordered (future proofing) with LED brakelight support. I did tweak some things, specifically I lowered the "gain" quite a bit (stock: 7/15, I lowered it to 3/15). This "softens" the delivery of adjustments quite a bit. I'd rather have a small potential for brief dips or rises away from a target speed in exchange for an extremely smooooooooth engagement to correction. It's very hilly around here and it works perfectly for me.

Highly recommended. Takes a good bit of cognitive load away on long rides.
 
Here's some of the info from MC Cruise to DIY the LED solution, as in my instance it was second hand and I really didn't want to order and wait on something from AUS. Their "kit" is pretty slick in that it's all pinned, so you remove a pin from the main harness, add 2 pins to it, and then plug the pin you removed in to the one attached to their kit and heat shrink it together.

Option 1 on page 2 of the "LED & Brake light modulator MCSU400.pdf" replicates their "kit".

MC Cruise:
Yes, you can make this quite easily. I would fit the brake light first and see if the cruise still works. Generally with aftermarket lights, the cruise will not work, the load resistor is needed. With about 60% of OE LED tail lights the cruise will still work, with the rest the load resistor must be fitted.

If you need to fit the resistor, find the brake light wire and the ground wire on the bike near the tail light. I have attached a document showing how to do this. The is for an older model computer, so the resistor quoted (10 watt, 33-039 ohms) can be used, but is not necessary for your computer (I have a MCS8000C). You only need a 1 watt resistor, any value around 5K to 10Kohms (5000 to 10000 ohms) will work fine.

Buy a suitable resistor and connect it between the brake light power wire and the ground wire. This is explained in more detail in the attached document:
LED & Brake light modulator MCSU400.pdf

Hope this helps, but I didn't need to bother with it on my installation and I have replaced every bulb on the bike with an LED that I can get to. :D
 

Attachments

  • Cruise Control Switch, Computer and Throttle Servo identification.pdf
    454 KB · Views: 15
  • LED & Brake light modulator MCSU400.pdf
    767.5 KB · Views: 13
  • LED brake load resistor kit (MCSU8000 K).pdf
    620.7 KB · Views: 6
STRider said:
If your brake lamp is LED, the circuit which cancels cruise when the brakes are applied requires a diode added. It's a $5 AUS addition to the price at the time it's ordered. And an LED capable MC Cruise will work with either an LED or incandescent lamp.
Click to expand...
I remember that being the one thing that I found odd when I looked at McCruise and communicated with them. This is a company that has an excellent product, excellent customer support, and an excellent reputation. An upgrade that is $5.00 retail is costing them next to nothing at manufacture. LED compatible works for every lamp type. Why not make all of them, even if they increase the price by a couple of bucks, LED compatible and be done with it. It would be easier for the consumer and it would probably be more efficient and easier for them as much as anyone else.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
I remember that being the one thing that I found odd when I looked at McCruise and communicated with them. This is a company that has an excellent product, excellent customer support, and an excellent reputation. An upgrade that is $5.00 retail is costing them next to nothing at manufacture. LED compatible works for every lamp type. Why not make all of them, even if they increase the price by a couple of bucks, LED compatible and be done with it. It would be easier for the consumer and it would probably be more efficient and easier for them as much as anyone else.
Click to expand...
My st has add on LED brake lights not LED replacement bulbs. I’m not sure if it applies to all LED configurations but it was not an issue with my install and I did not order the LED provisioned kit.
Just FYI.
 
CruSTy said:
My st has add on LED brake lights not LED replacement bulbs. I’m not sure if it applies to all LED configurations but it was not an issue with my install and I did not order the LED provisioned kit.
Just FYI.
Click to expand...
If your OEM brake lights still have incandescent bulbs in them, the LED option is not required. The base kit is designed for incandescent bulbs.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
I remember that being the one thing that I found odd when I looked at McCruise and communicated with them. This is a company that has an excellent product, excellent customer support, and an excellent reputation. An upgrade that is $5.00 retail is costing them next to nothing at manufacture. LED compatible works for every lamp type. Why not make all of them, even if they increase the price by a couple of bucks, LED compatible and be done with it. It would be easier for the consumer and it would probably be more efficient and easier for them as much as anyone else.
Click to expand...
From a product design and distribution standpoint, that's probably not entirely accurate.

The product is being made with custom PCBs that likely were designed nearly 20 years ago, and to go through validation on a product change isn't financially viable at the scale they sell through.

That $5 is probably about the cost of modifying every unit. It would add hundreds to the cost of all of them to add in new speccing and sourcing at the board manufacturing side.
 
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