Latest cruise-control switch options

Larry Fine

Larry Fine

Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
7,328
Location
Richmond, VA
Bike
'01 & '96 11, '07 13
(This post is duplicated for better response count)

Okay, I have found a really good price on a Rostra CC (I'll share if anyone is interested - not USA but ~$100 cheaper), so I'm ready to choose a switch set-up. I'm trying to choose among the TrailTech 8500-RS switch pod I used on my Nighthawk, a Goldwing right-side switch housing, a police-model right-side housing, or an ST1300 left-side switch housing (using the windshield switch).

Here are my new questions:

1. Is there a left-hand police switch housing, or is only the right side different from the standard bike?

2. Is there any reason to either use or avoid using certain Goldwing or ST1300 years or models?

3. Will the 4-way flasher switch of GW or ST1300 housings work with no mods of the 1100?

4. What would any of you recommend that I consider as alternatives to what I have mentioned?
 
Thanks to your substantial help, my Trail Tech switch works like a treat, looks good, and held up to 6 days and 2000 miles of rain on a recent trip. Why use anything else? ;)
 
Shawn K said:
Thanks to your substantial help, my Trail Tech switch works like a treat, looks good, and held up to 6 days and 2000 miles of rain on a recent trip. Why use anything else? ;)
Click to expand...
Glad to hear it. Did you ever connect the center button as a cancel?
 
Larry Fine said:
Glad to hear it. Did you ever connect the center button as a cancel?
Click to expand...

Haven't bothered. I was in such a rush to get it installed and tested before my trip, that I just wrapped that lead with electrical tape and secured it. I may just leave it as-is, since a little tap on the brake does the same thing. Been too busy riding to feel like tearing all the bodywork off again.
 
The 4 way switch from other bikes will only work on the ST1100 if they have built in 'diodes' to keep the turn signal circuits from 'bleeding' across when off. IIRC, there is a left side police switch but it does not have the numerous options of the right police switch.
Reg Siemens did a good write up of using the police switch 1-2-3 to operate his cruise control on the ST1100.
 
I used a gold wing 1500 switch. Once I got it sorted it works very well.
The negative: you need to shorten the wiring harness from the switch as it’s about a foot too long.
You need to drill another locking pin hole in the handlebar
There’s an extra wire to remove or cut near the brake light switch on the front brake
The pluses is you can plug the cruise control harness from the switch to the Rostra. ( you need to put a hitachi 6 pin plug on the Rostra harness.
I had interference from the blue and grey wire from the Rostra control so had to leave them disconnected.
It looks OEM

You may want to consider the illuminated switch gear as it can be hard to find the set button at night.

I’m hoping to see Reg this week and get more info on the install he did on his ST 1100. I got pictures from him on the actuating arm on the bellcrank he made.

Good luck with which ever way you choose to go
 
kiltman said:
I used a gold wing 1500 switch. Once I got it sorted it works very well.
The negative: you need to shorten the wiring harness from the switch as it’s about a foot too long.
You need to drill another locking pin hole in the handlebar
There’s an extra wire to remove or cut near the brake light switch on the front brake
Click to expand...
None of this poses a problem for me.
The pluses is you can plug the cruise control harness from the switch to the Rostra. ( you need to put a hitachi 6 pin plug on the Rostra harness.
I had interference from the blue and grey wire from the Rostra control so had to leave them disconnected.
It looks OEM
Click to expand...
Can you please tell me which Hitachi plug I would seek?
You may want to consider the illuminated switch gear as it can be hard to find the set button at night.
Click to expand...
From which models would that be? 1800s?
I’m hoping to see Reg this week and get more info on the install he did on his ST 1100. I got pictures from him on the actuating arm on the bellcrank he made.
Click to expand...
Please do. I've been thinking of having the CC pull on the "push" cable from the hand throttle.
Good luck with which ever way you choose to go
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
When I get back to Stratford in a couple of weeks I will take a photo of the hitachi plug I used. ( I got it from a local auto supply shop)
It may indeed be an 1800 that are the only ones illuminated, I would have to look back at one of the threads
With regards to using the push cable, would you be cutting a groove in the cable end nipple to facilitate a loop cable to be fitted?
 
I'm thinking about how the dual-cable system is set up. The throttle "pull" cable rotates the wheel at the carbs, which in turn pulls on the "push" cable. If I were to disconnect the "push" cable at the carb end, it would work like a single-cable system.

Instead of trying to add a second "pull" cable (from the CC), what if I were to get the CC to pull on the "push" side of the hand throttle? That means it would pull the "push" cable from the handlebar, rotating the throttle grip just like my hand does.
 
Larry Fine said:
I'm thinking about how the dual-cable system is set up. The throttle "pull" cable rotates the wheel at the carbs, which in turn pulls on the "push" cable. If I were to disconnect the "push" cable at the carb end, it would work like a single-cable system.

Instead of trying to add a second "pull" cable (from the CC), what if I were to get the CC to pull on the "push" side of the hand throttle? That means it would pull the "push" cable from the handlebar, rotating the throttle grip just like my hand does.
Click to expand...
That might work. I suppose you would need to fabricate a bracket for the cruise cable on the right side of the bike. Interesting idea.... cool
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom