How do i get carbs and snorkel box back on

MattSTlouis

MattSTlouis

Joined
Sep 26, 2006
Messages
134
Location
Arnold, mo
Bike
2005 ST-1300
I picked up a one owner st1100 a few months ago from a charity auction because I got it for $375 so couldn't pass that up. It had sat for a few years but only had one owner. Ran pretty bad so I decided to take out the carbs ultrasonic clean them and put new seals in it. Got it all back together and on the bike and it runs a lot better. Only problem is that I cannot get all the carbs and that snorkel box all assembled and back on the bike in one piece. If I put the carbs on by themselves no problem but then I can not get that metal plate back on even with removing the inner 4 metal alignment tabs that go around the screws. If I assemble the whole thing first then I can not get the carbs to slide into the boots.

Anyone know the secret to getting this thing back on the bike?

Thank you,

Matt
 
Hello Matt...

You will never-ever get the upper aluminum snorkel plenum lined up and installed with the carburetors already installed on the engine. All of the carbs are WAY out of alignment and you'll never get the plenum installed without days or months of work. Personally, I've never seen or heard of it done. The ONLY way, is to remove the carbs and install the plenum and snorkels on the bench (which is hard enough!). Fully assemble the carbs, then drop them in. It is very easy and simple to install the carbs, especially if your using new boots (which I strongly recommend). Have a look this attached write up. Down towards the bottom of the article is how to install the carbs in about two minutes, without using any yay-hacking shade tree tools...:giggle:

Carb Removal and Rebuild ( ST1100 ) *

Carb Removal and Rebuild ( ST1100 ) *
www.st-riders.net
 
With it all in one piece, use a little silicone lube or some Vaseline on the inside of the boots, making sure the 2 clamps on each boot are really loose.
Center it up and press down to get started.
Shhhh - if all else fails, get a block of wood (like a piece of 2x4) and tap the block of wood on the snorkel base with a hammer.
But you've got to make sure the carb 'throats' are properly positioned in each boot.
Also, if the boots (technically carb isolators) are old, they will be very stiff so you may want to look at replacing them.
 
I don't know if it gets easier with experience, but the one time I had the carbs off my bike it was a bit of a challenge to get the carbs back into brand new boots, even with lubrication. Mine were never disassembled, so follow Adam's advice and put everything back together first, then put the entire assembly back into the boots as a unit.

It seemed like I had them lined up OK, but they just didn't want to go all the way in. After many attempts (maybe 8-10) they finally slipped in, and I couldn't say what I did differently that last time. So, don't give up, keep trying and they will eventually go in.

Regarding lubrication, I've heard it mentioned before that you shouldn't use a petroleum based lubricant because it deteriorates the rubber over time (someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that). I used a silicone lubricant that I already had on hand.
 
dwalby said:
It seemed like I had them lined up OK, but they just didn't want to go all the way in. After many attempts (maybe 8-10) they finally slipped in, and I couldn't say what I did differently that last time. So, don't give up, keep trying and they will eventually go in.
Click to expand...
Same here. Always seems to take a few attempts, maybe a tap with a hammer/little block of wood..
 
After putting all the carbs back on the plate and before mounting on the engine, "bench sync" the butterflies. Use a thin wire guage or drill bits and adjust the set screws. Here's a video to help:

This isn't a substitute for syncing once installed, but will give you a base to start from.

Also, you can but the carb boots in a pot of hot water for a few minutes to soften them up. Make sure they are properly oriented before trying to jam the carbs on.

And if you think the ST1100 is difficult to install the carbs on, you should try a VF500F Interceptor!
 
I tried again last night and immediately ordered new boots. They were extremely hard and starting to have pieces shier off. I will have to wait.

I wonder if 1300 and 1100 boots are the same, I have a new set of 1300s setting around waiting to be installed.
 
MattSTlouis said:
I tried again last night and immediately ordered new boots. They were extremely hard and starting to have pieces shier off. I will have to wait.

I wonder if 1300 and 1100 boots are the same, I have a new set of 1300s setting around waiting to be installed.
Click to expand...
You could check the part numbers at Ron Ayers but I would really be surprised if they were the same give the different 'ages' of design of the two bikes.
 
dwalby said:
Regarding lubrication, I've heard it mentioned before that you shouldn't use a petroleum based lubricant because it deteriorates the rubber over time (someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that). I used a silicone lubricant that I already had on hand.
Click to expand...

I've seen that too, but has never been proven. Just opinion. Countless pages of debate. All from the keyboard cowboys who are no longer here. One guy insisted on using Vagisil and K-Y jelly to lube all his rubbers! LOL... Most of the "rubber" on, and in, the ST engine is either viton or nitrile. All of the engine oil o-rings, coolant o-rings and carb boots are such. If they were not, they would fail right away. The insides of the carb boots are consistently subjected to gasoline as soon as you start the engine. These boots will go maybe 200,000 miles before they become as hard as a rock from the heat and age? Same as the valve/cam cover seals and internal engine o-rings?

Personally, I use dielectric (silicone) grease. Some of the other o-rings, I'll use engine oil or petroleum grease to lubricate them AND cause them to swell to get a better seal. Caterpillar, Cummins and International have always recommended it to keep their engines sealed up for a million miles...
 
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