how best to smooth chips in chrome fork stanchions ?
- Thread starter aSTerix
- Start date
I would try fine wet and dry, but, isn't there always a but.
They look about buggered to me.
I seem to remember someone saying they had filled and sanded with satisfactory results, can't remember what with though.
I take it they are a part of the leg that seals with the fork seal rubber?
Only other option is hard chroming or replacement.
Upt'North.
They look about buggered to me.
I seem to remember someone saying they had filled and sanded with satisfactory results, can't remember what with though.
I take it they are a part of the leg that seals with the fork seal rubber?
Only other option is hard chroming or replacement.
Upt'North.
hard to tell how deep those pits are from the picture, does your fingernail snag on them if you run it over them? If not, leave them alone. Otherwise, I agree with the wet/dry sandpaper suggestion, I've used 600 grit before to take a small burr off mine.
Dig out the rust and rubbish as much as you can with a sharp implement and scrape away any roughness that might rip the seal. Treat the pit with a rust inhibitor. Rub with aluminium foil (quick option) or even fill and smooth with a tiny spot of epoxy resin (slower option, but longer lasting)!
That looks pretty bad, if they're in the seal area. I would be on the lookout for a good used tube. Chrome is very hard and resistant to abrasion, so it would be hard to do much with an abrasive, paper or otherwise, and you still would have lots of deep pits left. Good luck however you proceed.
Bmacleod
Site Supporter
Filing/sanding/smoothing usually is to remove a high spot caused by a dent from a stone, or the like. It still leaves a dent or depression for fluid to escape paste the seal. That is chipping of the chrome plating. Sanding or smoothing may smooth the edges of the chip a bit, but I think it would be a waste of time. If it leaked before, it will leak after sanding/smoothing. There are enough sizeable chips that I would think new tubes would be the best option. I would repair/rechrome or replace the tube(s) if it were me.
I did a quick search and the first result turned up a thread on Adventure Rider that outlines what some people have had done in your situation. It seems that they have had luck filling the chips, like roger had suggested. Check this out https://advrider.com/f/threads/repair-pitted-fork-tubes.719221/
I did a quick search and the first result turned up a thread on Adventure Rider that outlines what some people have had done in your situation. It seems that they have had luck filling the chips, like roger had suggested. Check this out https://advrider.com/f/threads/repair-pitted-fork-tubes.719221/
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
How high up on the fork tube is that? Looks almost like specks of road tar. Try wiping them down first with acetone or similar solvent. If that removes it then just "polish/buff" with fine emory cloth.
One thing I would NOT use is steel wool. Small pieces can break off and imbed in the metal only causing rusting down the road.
One thing I would NOT use is steel wool. Small pieces can break off and imbed in the metal only causing rusting down the road.
I've heard that small pitting can be improved with wadded aluminum foil and chrome polish, but I used the super-glue fix on my '96 NH750 when I rebuilt the forks.
I had pits like above and straight scratches you could see and feel along the fork-travel direction. You can still see the pits, but it feels like glass when you touch it.
I had pits like above and straight scratches you could see and feel along the fork-travel direction. You can still see the pits, but it feels like glass when you touch it.
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I looks like you've tried to work on the pits already.
Sanding and polishing will remove the high spots but still leave pits. The process may soften the edges of the pits so as not to damage new seals but the pits will still still scoop out fork oil. You need to fill them in but I have no idea what will work short of rehabing the fork tubes. Will be watching to see if any of the options mentioned work for you.
Sanding and polishing will remove the high spots but still leave pits. The process may soften the edges of the pits so as not to damage new seals but the pits will still still scoop out fork oil. You need to fill them in but I have no idea what will work short of rehabing the fork tubes. Will be watching to see if any of the options mentioned work for you.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Added tip: if you sand/hone/polish do so circumferentially in a shoeshine motion, not parallel to the tube. BTDT Longitudinal scratches give the suspension fluid a path across the seal.
The fingernail test is a good test.
John
The fingernail test is a good test.
John
My NH750 tubes were physically perfect when I restored them with the super-glue, no buffing, just a blade.
The pits and, to a lesser degree, the longitudinal scratches are still visible, but you can not feel them.
its about 10 cm above the fork seals and deep and rough, I can easily feel them with my finger let alone my finger nail
Be sure to keep the blade parallel to the tube, so the blade doesn't cut the top of the fill concave.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
By the picture I'd judge pitting corrosion, so IMO those tubes are done... I'd go for replacements...
Re-chroming might be difficoult, chemicals used in the bath remain in those cavities, the galvanising won't bind there (new chrome peeling off, cutting into the seals...)
Re-chroming might be difficoult, chemicals used in the bath remain in those cavities, the galvanising won't bind there (new chrome peeling off, cutting into the seals...)
How long did you leave the super glue to cure before using the blade to smooth it ?
I honestly don't remember, but what I did was find several different sites with posts and threads on the process, and formed an
"average" method. I did make sure to keep the blade edge in line with the tube, to avoid under-cutting the surface.
I found that using a new ,ie sharp Stanley knife blade works better that a razor blade in trimming the few thou of superglue excess down to the level of the tube and then lightly sanding down with some worn out strips of very fine wet and dry, not too much pressure , use strips about 6 inches long in a flossing type motion and stop as soon as possible as this will mark the good chrome although probably not enough to leak past the seals. Keep checking with your finger nail lightly and eyes closed. This method has worked for me in the past with a couple of bikes. I left the superglue to cure 24 hours minimum and degreased it before applying the glue with a pin or similar as you only need a small dot on the pitting.
I meant an industrial-type blade, not one made for shaving.
